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Old 07-21-2017, 06:33 PM   #1
mtbrdad
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Default Steps to take manual XR transmission out

We are replacing the manual transmission on a 2dr XR and unfortunately the Haines maual isn't arriving here until after 8/1 from Amazon. Can anyone pdf the steps the Haynes manual says to take out a manual transmission from the XR, and the clutch if possible we're replacing that also. My son says he looked through videos he could find and all of them were of taking transmissions out of the 4 dr XE's and the subframe looked bigger than on the 2 dr XR. We're are working with a cool owner of a transmission shop and he's going to help us find a good low mileage trans. for replacement. Unfortunately he's gone for the weekend.
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Old 07-26-2017, 11:20 AM   #2
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Default Re: Steps to take manual XR transmission out

Wow 84 views and not a little bit of help. If anyone has the manual could you at least list the steps it says to take out the manual trans. I'm not sure if it's the right way but so far he just got the sub-frame out yesterday. Now he's searching YouTube and Google to see how the trans comes out. definitely not a job for the weak of heart we needed a 1/2" impact driver to break most if not all of the bolts loose and then half of the retainers for the nuts broke free from their tack welds and they were almost impossible to unscrew. At 100k miles in the Midwest there was quite a bit of rust on all the parts.
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:18 PM   #3
David R
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2009 Astra XE
1997 SW2
Default Re: Steps to take manual XR transmission out

Ok well I would have thought someone would have too.

I didn't do the work. A little over a year and half ago I bought my Astra needing a new clutch. The shop was well experienced with European cars. What they did was drop the exhaust, steering rack, shift linkage, pull the axles out of the housing. Took the whole transmission out from under the car. Obviously they had a lift for the transmission and the car.

Can't say whether they had an easy time of it or whether this was the right way or only way to do the transmission.

There was a problem with the steering alignment after it all went back together. Shouldn't, in theory have been a problem, but something moved, as the steering wheel wasn't level anymore.

Clutch was a bit of a problem as well for quit a long time, judder or hop in 1st from a stop. It was an after market clutch and pressure plate, so maybe loading or friction material were an issue. Its since settled down.

Hope this is helpful.
...
~I'm not an authority on anything~

2009 Astra XE 5sp 225K km
2000 Honda Civic SI 5sp 172K km, AKA EX Coupe - Gone
1997 SW2 DOHC Auto 330K km - Parked, waiting for the value of scrape to go up
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Old 08-05-2017, 11:23 AM   #4
RobD1517
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2008 Astra XR
1999 SL2
Default Re: Steps to take manual XR transmission out

Wish I'd known about this post the other day. Not the best at tutorials either but I have first hand experience unfortunately. Will need a set of External torx (got a set from Craftsman for like $40) sockets.

I did mine with an A-Frame since I don't have a lift. Put the car up on stands and support the motor and trans together. Just took the weight off the mounts is all at this point. Remove the battery then dropped exhaust and knocked all the suspension loose from the subframe. Was concerned about alignment but luckily can't mess it up too badly. Left it all hanging from struts then started on loosening up the subframe. You will have a trans mount that needs to be taken loose as well before the frame can come down. The last thing I did before I dropped the subframe was disconnect the steering shaft. Under the dash at the base of the column where it goes into the floor u will find a bolt pinch clamp. The bolt will come all the way out then the shaft will come off (probably second worst part of the job due to lil room.) Once that's disconnected, start knocking the bolts out of the subframe and lower it down. At this point I supported the trans with a floor jack and started working on the mounts on that side (never even loosened the passenger side mount.) Once it's all loosened, center of the car between the engine and firewall u will find the shift cable. Takes a torx to loosen the pinch clamp. If I were to do this again, I'd find a way to mark where that cable comes into the clamp. Resetting the shifter was a bit confusing getting under then back in the car to get it aligned right. Disconnect the hydraulic line as well from the slave cylinder as well as the backup switch.

At this point it's time to start loosening the trans from the engine. Really takes 2 people to get it off the motor and not tearing something up, or tear urself up. Going back in is just about the same as disassembly with the exception of bleeding the hydraulic line (tricky, but it can be done. Had to do it similar to when u do the brakes but I had to crack the line instead of a traditional bleeder.) Also highly recommend sourcing a clutch alignment tool as well. Not impossible to do without it but makes it much easier.

As far as fluids, I used just under 2 qts of Redline MT-85. Found it on Amazon for like $30 for the pair. As far as filling, and proper leveling, u have two holes. One being the brake switch which is the fill and a check hole that's on the lower driver side (if ur looking at the trans from the wheel well it'll be in the far lower right corner kinda hidden behind frame and unibody.) Fill till it spills out the check hole n button her up.

Hope I didn't miss anything and hope it all goes successfully!
...
'92 SL2 - 108,000 miles (traded)
'96 SL2 - 312,000 miles (blew up)
'98 SL2 - ??????? miles (parts car)
'99 SL2 - 168,000 miles (Sold 11/08)
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:04 PM   #5
mtbrdad
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Default Re: Steps to take manual XR transmission out

Thanks for the responses, sorry I haven't been checking this.

As it turns out my 16yr old is pretty industrious and has a lot of energy, I just supplied the garage, tools and parts and he did everything. I have quite a bit of tools since I was a tool and die maker and also work on my own cars. I ended up having to buy a full set of impact tools from Harbor Freight and a the Ryobi impact driver which matched all the Ryobi batteries I already had.

He did everything as listed by RobD1517 and ended up taking off the tie rod ends also, at 100k we replaced both tie rod ends from Amazon. In taking off the subframe 2-4 of the frame parts that lock the nuts in place broke off, getting them to unscrew was a major pain. To reassemble he went to a good auto parts store and bought all new nuts and bolts for the subframe and used blue locktite on them. The Haynes manual had come by then so he used the torque specs to tighten everything up. Also, one of the steering linkage long M12 x 1.75 screws with a nut on the end was in really bad shape as well as the smaller M8 stainless steel screw and they are impossible to find. I was able to find replacements at McMaster Carr and for the M8 which has a special tip he just screwed a zinc plated regular one back in and it appeared to work. Also, 2 of the 3 exhaust screws broke off: One he broke an easy out in and we've yet to get that one out and the other we are going to just retap when we get around to it. He completed installing everything on 8/20/17 at 1am except the exhaust and had to try it out , remember those days when you were young and had energy all night. So he drove the car around and everything worked perfectly, he even said it shifted like a brand new car. Without the exhaust it actually doesn't sound bad around town, just like a Civic with a baffle on the exhaust.
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