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Old 10-10-2011, 02:08 PM   #1
jerseyjim119
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1998 SC2
Default 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

My daughter has a 1998 SC2 that is having a problem with hesitation on acceleration. It seems to idle and rev fine when in park. It occasionally hesitates when you go to start moving but it is really prominent when you are at speed and go to accelerate. It doesn't really seem to matter what speed. If kind of jumps a little and then picks up and goes. The Service Engine Light started blinking on me the other day when I was pushing it hard. I took it to Auto Zone and they pulled a code P0341 and said it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Base on other threads in this forum i don't believe this sensor would cause the issue I am seeing. Any other thoughts?
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:55 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Just wanted to mention that the car has 99,500 miles on it.
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:08 PM   #3
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Change plugs and wires
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:22 PM   #4
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexofNazareth View Post
Change plugs and wires
That. Use NGK BKR5ESA-11 plugs. For wires, any mid-range set will do.

While you're at it, check out this sticky: New or returning owner's checklist
...
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Old 10-10-2011, 04:51 PM   #5
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyjim119 View Post
My daughter has a 1998 SC2 that is having a problem with hesitation on acceleration. It seems to idle and rev fine when in park. It occasionally hesitates when you go to start moving but it is really prominent when you are at speed and go to accelerate. It doesn't really seem to matter what speed. If kind of jumps a little and then picks up and goes. The Service Engine Light started blinking on me the other day when I was pushing it hard. I took it to Auto Zone and they pulled a code P0341 and said it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Base on other threads in this forum i don't believe this sensor would cause the issue I am seeing. Any other thoughts?
If it really were a bad cranshaft position sensor your engine would
not start you need to get it properly diagnosed from a certified shop
that can test and verify your problem with proper diagnoses i always
say its cheaper to pay for a good diagnoses than to play the guessing
game.
...
" Any man that doesen"t share his knowledge in cars is wrong to do !"
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:59 PM   #6
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

also be sure to inspect your ignition coils/packs/module... clean off any corrosion that you can.
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:12 PM   #7
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

i had the exact same problem... but i replaced the crankshaft sensor and put in new spark plugs/wires and all was good!
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:22 PM   #8
jerseyjim119
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Plugs and wires did the trick! You guys and gal are awesome. Thank you very much. I ran into one other thing as I was checking out the car. The dome light and manual door lock weren't working. I used the Haynes manual to trace it to the 10amp body fuse. Sure enough it was blown, but when I went to replace it, the new one arced and blew right away. The only other fuse I had was a 15 amp so I tried that too and right away it also blew. Any ideas?
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:47 PM   #9
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyjim119 View Post
Plugs and wires did the trick! You guys and gal are awesome. Thank you very much. I ran into one other thing as I was checking out the car. The dome light and manual door lock weren't working. I used the Haynes manual to trace it to the 10amp body fuse. Sure enough it was blown, but when I went to replace it, the new one arced and blew right away. The only other fuse I had was a 15 amp so I tried that too and right away it also blew. Any ideas?
Obviously there is a short somewhere in that circuit. MAKE SURE NO AFTERMARKET BULLSHI+ IS INSTALLED/JERRY RIGGED THERE (IOW, lights on the undercarraige, radios, speakers, amps, etc).

as for aftermarket manuals in general, you can only trust them as far as you can throw them.
...
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:09 PM   #10
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

yeah, lets not keep putting in higher rated fuses and burning up wires...find the short like adventureoflink said
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:19 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

No there's nothing aftermarket. They've been working fine for the past couple of years but not sure what's shorting out. The 15 amp fuse was the only spare I had at the time so I tried just putting the dome light in the off position before putting it in to see if made a difference but it still blew. Are the locks the only other thing on that circuit? That's all I can see thats not working so far. Cig lighter, lights, radio, wipers, remote keyless are all okay.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:21 AM   #12
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
Originally Posted by brags View Post
If it really were a bad cranshaft position sensor your engine would not start you need to get it properly diagnosed from a certified shop that can test and verify your problem with proper diagnoses i always
say its cheaper to pay for a good diagnoses than to play the guessing
game.
There are times when you are absolutely correct but most of the time there are common sense things you can do yourself before spending heavy money on expensive shop time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyjim119 View Post
Plugs and wires did the trick! You guys and gal are awesome. Thank you very much. I ran into one other thing as I was checking out the car. The dome light and manual door lock weren't working. I used the Haynes manual to trace it to the 10amp body fuse. Sure enough it was blown, but when I went to replace it, the new one arced and blew right away. The only other fuse I had was a 15 amp so I tried that too and right away it also blew. Any ideas?
The door locks and dome light are on separate circuits. The locks are on the 20A Locks fuse #20 on the Instrument Panel Junction Block. The dome light, map light and power mirror are on the 10A Body fuse #18 again on the IPJB.

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use the resistance measuring functions? If the fuse blows like you say then it should be relatively easy to trace down the problem. Circuits with motors, solenoids and switches are the most likely to fail especially going through a door hinge.

Whenever you find a blown fuse, don't just replace it. A blown fuse is an indication that something is radically wrong with the circuit, and needs diagnosing. Occasionally a fuse does blows from unknown causes, but that is the exception. Fuses are normally designed to blow at currents at least twice as high as normal than the circuit being protected.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:02 AM   #13
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

I do have a multimeter but have never used it. I'm pretty good at tinkering around with most things so if there are a few tips you could give I should be able to get started. How would I use the mulitmeter to find out where the short is?
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:13 AM   #14
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

1. If you have the instructions for your multimeter, start by reading them and practice checking the resistance of various things. Make sure that what ever you use to measure resistance is not "ON" or connected to any power source of any kind, otherwise, you could damage your meter.

2. Did you check the 20A fuse I mentioned in my previous post? That fuse feeds both the door locks and the cigarette lighter. There is a good chance that someone plugged something in the cigarette lighter and overloaded the circuit. Try replacing the fuse with another 20A to see if it blows again.

3. All I have to work with is the Haynes Repair Manual 1991-1999, Typical Saturn Wiring Diagram 8 of 12, found on page 12-21. Let me know if yours is different. It's unfortunate but the Haynes does not show cable routing so tracing wire will be a challenge.

4. Let's look for the obvious first. Check the Instrument Panel Junction Box (IPJB) for signs of overheating, loose connections, darkening, etc. in and around the Body and locks fuses. Use you nose and sniff around the IPJB to catch any possible trace of burned insulation odor. Pay special attention to the Locks fuse since it carries a heavier load and more likely to overheat.

5. Look at CONN #2285 pins E6, E7, F4, F7, located on the upper right hand corner side of the Instrument Panel Junction Box schematic diagram. You'll note that the Body fuse feeds the dome and map lights, cargo light switch, and power mirror switch. Look at those areas for any visual clues like pinched wires, loose connections, or anything else that might look suspicious.

NOTE: Please, in order to maximize our efforts, it is best if you would address each and every item on this list fully and to the best of your ability, then respond to each in a clear and concise manner. Not doing so will waste precious time and confuse the issue further. Thanks
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:23 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
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NOTE: Please, in order to maximize our efforts, it is best if you would address each and every item on this list fully and to the best of your ability, then respond to each in a clear and concise manner. Not doing so will waste precious time and confuse the issue further. Thanks
^^^ this. *shudders at that '91 SOHC CPS R&R thread >_<*
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DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:57 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

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^^^ this.
What do you mean by "*shudders at that '91 SOHC CPS R&R thread >_<*"?
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Old 10-14-2011, 04:48 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Quote:
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What do you mean by "*shudders at that '91 SOHC CPS R&R thread >_<*"?
this monstrosity of a thread.

seriously, it's as if we were all chasing our own tails...
...
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DOB: 3/19/97
Date Obtained: 5/30/07
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Old 10-14-2011, 06:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerseyjim119 View Post
I took it to Auto Zone and they pulled a code P0341 and said it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Any other thoughts?
P0341 is the CAMshaft position sensor error code. Just to clarify, its a generic GM code and points to the ignition system as having a fault somewhere. It is almost always fixed with new plugs and wires, sometimes coilpacks, as you have found out. Also, s-series don't have camshaft position sensors...

Last edited by Saturn-R; 10-14-2011 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:56 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

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P0341 is the CAMshaft position sensor error code. Just to clarify, its a generic GM code and points to the ignition system as having a fault somewhere. It is almost always fixed with new plugs and wires, sometimes coilpacks, as you have found out. Also, s-series don't have camshaft position sensors...
Thanks for making an important point. At first I got a bit confused by the CAMSHAFT/CRANKSHAFT reference, but now understand. As you said, in the S-series, Saturn effectively assigned the PO341 code which typically pertains to a camshaft sensor issue, to the ignition module instead. So if the code had been properly interpreted at the onset, all indications would have pointed to the ignition system. If jerseyjim119 had happened to Google Saturn PO341, he probably would have gotten his solution more rapidly.
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Old 10-17-2011, 10:51 AM   #20
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Default Re: 1998 SC2 hesitation when accelerating

Thank you all for the great help. I did google the error code because it was not listed in the Haynes manual for the S-series and that's when I came across this forum and found out that it most likely wasn't the crankshaft position sensor that the guy at Auto Zone told me. From reading other posts on here I suspected that it was plugs and wires but wanted to post my specific case just to confirm.

As for the fuse problem, it turned out that the cargo lamp assembly which had been broken for a while, was pushed up into the body of the car and the contact for the light was actually touching the car. Once I properly repositioned the assembly and secured it, I was able to replace the fuse without any problem.

Bernie, just to clarify, the inside door handle lock switch does go through the 10 amp body fuse. The locking mechanism itself goes through the 20 amp and that was okay. I could still use the remote to lock and unlock the doors. Now that the 10 amp fuse is working properly, the door handle switch is now working properly also.

Again, thank you all very much. This has been very helpful.
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