Rebuild - 1995 (SC2) - L4 1.9L MFI DOHC (LL0)

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Weld buildup is fine. Sitting stopped at lights etc. in gear with the clutch disengaged puts a very high load on a weak thrust bearing.

As I understand it, the #1 thing is clutch should be disengaged as little as possible. And the #2 thing is don't feather it for slowing down at lights, etc. - my mom rarely drives a stick, but probably puts a year's worth of wear on it for each day of driving. 'Cause ya know, it's easier to use the clutch like a secondary gas pedal.

I have a very accurate scale which will work great for measuring the pistons. It might have been a good idea to make a work order prior to going to the shop, but you live and learn. I was very pleased with their work for the price.

Roller bearings are fine then. Differential pin is worn, but only around .001-.002.

[OldNuc]

Replace diff pin. Take your part number and try all the other sources Nally is retail.

You have the idea for proper clutch operation.

If you know the shop, paperwork may not be required but if not it is best to have a work order typed up and go over it with the shop at start of the job.

[anmasher]

Pistons are equal to a few thousandths of an ounce. Bearings were plastigaged and are just right. The most difficult thing was picking up assembly lube on the way to work - guy kept trying to tell me how to put (an unknown) engine together, what oils to use, etc.

Picking up rings tomorrow and then hopefully the lower block can be fully assembled by the end of the weekend. Use split coke cans for installing rings - like ehunter - and be very gentle with the ring compressor, correct?

[OldNuc]

Yes, if you can find this type of compressor things go much better. http://www.amazon.com/Cvf-Supply-882...ing+compressor You can usually find one of these with an 80-84mm band and you are goo to go. Make sure you know which way the rods go into that engine and have rod stud covers on them or you will scratch the crank.

[OldNuc]

Assembly lube = Permatex Ultra Slick. Do not get any on the back side of the bearings. If it moves, lube it.

[anmasher]

I saw that permatex stuff in hunt4steve's thread and went with it. Stud covers are ready, and I do know the positions and orientations for everything (hint to others: take lots of pictures).

Might go searching for one of those locally, I have a large can type ratcheting compressor. Yours looks much more useful.

[OldNuc]

Yes, you release the latch and then you can squeeze and push as you relax the squeeze and they slide right in. The big band compressor like you have is a good way to break rings on small pistons.

Assembly is when you want to be slow and methodical so there are no mistakes. This will take much longer than you think

[anmasher]

Took the better part of last night to get the rings done, then the better part of today to assemble the bottom end. Not too bad.
I ended up purchasing a nice plier style ring expander. As long as you are gentle, that works beautifully. The rings - cast iron Hastings - were too much for the can trick. Kept crushing and shredding cans. I couldn't find a band type ring compressor locally, but did have the ratchet type and a helper on hand. It worked pretty well, but I definitely see how you can break rings. I would not recommend that if you're doing it by yourself.

That (relief?) valve by the oil pump, replace it? If so, is it OEM only? There are two o-ring type seals on the timing side which certainly should be replaced, but I haven't found their names or where to get them. Picture attached.

[OldNuc]

They live in a timing cover set and must be replaced. The oil relief valve is recommended to replace and you can find the part number on Nalley site then check the other online suppliers for a good price. If the thing is clean and not leaking it probably is not a absolute must replace item. Excess RTV or The Right Stuff has the possibility of landing in that valve so take it easy with the sealant, squeeze-out is not good.

Those 2 seals are in this kit VICTOR REINZ Part # JV1174 There is one that is cheaper but I don't have the number or remember who put the kit together. You can buy the 2 individual seals though once you have the part numbers.

I thought you were going with perfect circle rings?

[anmasher]

Explains that, I'll dig around on Nalley and get numbers. Probably will have a large order of OEM parts here soon.

Originally Posted by OldNuc

I thought you were going with perfect circle rings?

Repercussions of not giving the shop a work order. Saying "I want Perfect Circle rings, probably this part number" doesn't do much. Should I be too worried about the Hastings? I will replace them with perfect circles if they necessary.

[OldNuc]

No, they are fine but as they are not molly coated break in will usually take longer than 15 minutes. Be sure to watch oil consumption and keep the RPM below 3500 and no steady cruising until seated. Brisk acceleration to top gear is fine but no WOT operation.

[anmasher]

That's what I feared from the instructions they came with. You still want the 30 minute warm-up + oil change before going crazy with it, right?

[OldNuc]

Yes, let it sit and idle until the fan cycles twice. You can spend the wait time looking for leaks etc. Then let it cool and rain down for the first oi change. Use a good synthetic blend such as Valvoline 5w-30 and watch consumption closely, keep the oil level at the full mark. Use a Pure One or Mobil-1 filter as you really don't want any chunks circulating. They should break in rapidly still though. Pre-start oil prime is still required.

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Pre-start oil prime is still required.

Tried that on my oil change today for filling the filter, then topping it off. Worked wonderfully.

I think everything for the transmission is either ready to order from the dealer or on the way. I decided against replacing the differential pin due to cost; it'll still be pinned from both sides. My understanding of physics says this isn't the greatest idea, but it still shouldn't snap the pins.

Next is my shopping list for gasket/seals. I'd kinda like to get them all at once and hopefully this is everything.

• Oil Pickup O-Ring - OEM #21000207
• Timing side seals (mentioned above) - Victor Reinz #JV1174
• Front crank seal - Fel-Pro #TCS45958
• Rear main seal - Fel-Pro #BS40464
• Head gasket - Victor Reinz #5993
• Head bolts - Victor Reinz #GS33392
• EGR gasket - Fel-Pro #70789
• Exhaust manifold gasket - Fel-Pro #MS95632
• Intake manifold gasket - Victor Reinz #MS16147
• Valve cover gasket - Fel-Pro #VS50451R
• Throttle Body gasket - Victor Reinz #G31341
• Exhaust downpipe flange gasket - Victor Reinz #F7530

Oil pan and timing cover are The Right Stuff cheez-whizz, correct? Anything sticking out as missing?

Then a rebuilt head, timing set, and clutch set and we're ready to roll... at least the powertrain will be.

[OldNuc]

Front crank seal is in the Victor kit.

Use the FelPro head gasket and FelPro permaDry cam cover gasket. Nothing jumps out...

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Front crank seal is in the Victor kit.

Good catch, totally missed that.

Switched them FelPro. Wonder why the relatively unimportant valve cover seal is more expensive than the massively important head gasket...

Awesome, thanks!

[OldNuc]

Check RockAuto, head gasket 28 and cam cove is 20. You might be better off buying a gasket set. You need the top set, bottom set and the Victor timing cover seal set. The top set has the valve stem seals and you may have to make that one from individual parts.

[anmasher]

Rockauto is where I was looking. Sets would be nice. I will try to sort those out tonight and get them ordered. Ordered a couple of little pieces from the dealership - took over a half hour because they were having computer problems.

I read that diff pin fix thread earlier. Since they make a reasonably cheap rebuild kit and I can throw in all the other parts, I think after this car is running I'll save up for a junkyard transmission and properly rebuild it. My worn differential pin and (most likely) abused synchros bother me.

[OldNuc]

The metal part of the synchro does not wear, just the friction material. The rebuild kits are using a yellow metal synchro with the friction material bonded to the face. I am not that impressed with yellow metal synchros in this type of transmission.

[anmasher]

Ok... I've read about transmissions more than I cared to in the past few days. Since it shifted into and out all gears rather well during its short trip home, would it be a safe assumption to stuff it back together and have it last awhile? I should replace the axle seals too, no?

BTW - Differential pin wear is .0006" at its worst point.

On the engine front, my OEM parts are here and mostly installed. The gaskets are ordered and coming in. Then next Friday I'll order a reman head and timing set. Going quite smoothly.