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Old 04-17-2020, 11:09 PM   #1
crazyjmk
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Default Engine Removal

I am in the process of pulling an engine from a 2000 ls2 v6. Not wanting to do more than necessary I was wondering if anyone who has done this could shed some light on a couple of things.

1: Is it necessary to remove the battery tray?
2: Is it necessary to remove the radiator?
3: Shift linkage?

I am sure I will have more as I go along, but this is where I am at currently. I have the exhaust off, all the various hoses, clips and top intake manifold for easier access to stuff. I am moving into the removal of the a/c and power steering lines next and then it looks to be on to the starter and torque converter bolts, engine mounts and engine to transmission bolts.

I feel like the manual mixes up processes for the 4 and 6 cylinder. But then hey I have never removed one before.

Can anyone offer some advice?

Thanks!
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Old 04-18-2020, 01:46 PM   #2
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Default Re: Engine Removal

Welcome to SaturnFans, crazyjmk! I hope that you'll find some assistance here. Not owning a car with the V6 and having never pulled an engine - I've watched the process, but only on RWD cars - I have no suggestions to offer. However, if it were me, I would remove the radiator as it would provide more space to work with.

Lastly, and just to be certain, are you removing the engine with or without the transmission attached?

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyjmk View Post
...I feel like the manual mixes up processes for the 4 and 6 cylinder. But then hey I have never removed one before.
Which manual are you referring to? (Knowing what you're reading may help some members to clarify things that you're reading as some may own the same manual.)
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Old 04-18-2020, 10:55 PM   #3
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Default Re: Engine Removal

I have the Haynes manual.

I am pulling it separate from the transmission. It is a transverse mounted engine, so I don't need to come forward to detach it from the transmission. That is why I question pulling radiator.

Thanks for your reply!

J
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Old 04-18-2020, 11:24 PM   #4
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Default Re: Engine Removal

Third party service manuals are great for most work. They don't cover everything and the reason they're less costly than factory service manuals. If your Haynes doesn't cover engine removal then you have alternatives for info specific to L300 engine removal; library for free access to alldata or Mitchell online service manuals, members here with info from previous experience, subscribing to alldata.diy or Mitchell for online access to service manuals. Maybe Youtube has a video or two?
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Old 04-19-2020, 07:37 AM   #5
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Default Re: Engine Removal

With the limited space in the engine bay of the V6 cars remove all the things you mentioned for better access to bolts, wires and clips. If shift linkage is in the way remove it.
Radiators can get damaged easy so pull it.
I have never pulled a V6 Saturn but have done many other GM products with v6 in them. If the Engine is Junk or even if you are rebuilding it Take the intake and Heads off for an easier pull. Of course when you put it back have the engine complete.
Be careful of the torque converter when you separate engine from Trans because Torque converter can get damaged.
Good luck and if you need any more help just Holler.
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Old 04-19-2020, 02:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: Engine Removal

I haven't removed the engine either on a 3.0L, but I did replace the sub-frame which holds the transmission, the engine and the front struts. There are literally only 6 sub-frame bolts, two strut bolts, a small bolt on the front sub-frame where an aluminum tube is attached, and then a few bolts to the steering mechanism... and the entire engine, tranny and suspension drop out. I may be forgetting a few bolts, but I was amazed how the sub-frame holds everything. Changing the sub-frame was not easy in a one car small garage!

Having said that... I think it would be easier to drop the engine and everything out the bottom rather than pulling it out the top. Just my opinion, but again, I haven't pulled the motor, yet!
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Old 04-19-2020, 04:02 PM   #7
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Default Re: Engine Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
***...Having said that... I think it would be easier to drop the engine and everything out the bottom rather than pulling it out the top....
In general, I would agree that statement. I have seen what it looks like when FWD powertrains are dropped that way at dealerships. The problem for the DIYer is that he is not able to raise the vehicle high enough to perform an engine removal in that manner. Further, there is a special support cradle, or table, and manual lift/jack to be used in that process as well. Perhaps one day someone will attempt to franchise vehicle hoist rental spaces for DIYers to perform their repairs on...but I wouldn't hold my breath for that day to come. So the only option for DIY engine removal is up from the engine compartment.
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Old 04-19-2020, 10:16 PM   #8
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Default Re: Engine Removal shyster avoidance program

hi Pierrot and rj- found this thread interesting. have read here that the engine subframe is usually removed when it becomes rusted to hell. mine isn't rusted. have been anticipating an eventual engine replacement. rebuilt or reman 4cyl engines for my 01 L100(manual trans) don't seem to be available so replacement would probably be a junk yard engine. doesn't seem feasible for a diy back yard mechanic to take it out from the bottom. 3 questions : 1. if you pull it out from the top does the hood have to come off(looks like it does). 2. is it best to pull it out leaving the transaxle attached since it would be wise to replace the clutch and slave cylinder with the unit out on the floor. plan would be to use a tripod rolling crane to pull it. 3. when you swap these engines do you have to reprogram the computer at high dealer cost. my only experience with engine swaps has been with rwd cars and seems considerably easier. thanks tons bob fisher
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Old 04-19-2020, 10:20 PM   #9
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Default Re: Engine Removal

So an update: I did take the radiator out, as well as the alternator to get to the starter. I had to remove the oil pan as the engine was blown and I could not rotate it to get to the flexplate/converter bolts. I was able to remove the broken connecting rod and get the engine to rotate. The bonus was I was able to take the flexplate bolts out without having to do it from the starter hole.

I also moved the battery tray to get to the the radiator stuff. I did remove the lines from the transmission instead of the radiator because the lower one could not be removed with the tools I had.

So up next is the power steering lines and then the engine mounts and it should come out. The starter was stupid and will be a real trick to get back in.

I have to put a new timing belt on the replacement engine with a new water pump. The flex hose on the exhaust is shot and I need to replace this as well.
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Old 04-19-2020, 11:10 PM   #10
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Default Re: Engine Removal

To answer fisherís question, I removed and installed my L61/5speed as a unit from the top.
Crazy: L series engine compartments are pretty tight right to left so be careful as you lift the engine that you donít crush the air conditioning pipe that is near the crank pulley. You have to slide the engine toward that frame rail to get the flexplate out of the bell housing. You might want to unbolt the crank pulley for more clearance. Use a floor jack under the transmission as you lift the engine.
Good luck and donít get in the line of fire. These engines are heavy, be very careful.
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Old 04-19-2020, 11:43 PM   #11
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Default Re: Engine Removal shyster avoidance program

Quote:
Originally Posted by rfisher View Post
hi Pierrot and rj- found this thread interesting. have read here that the engine subframe is usually removed when it becomes rusted to hell. mine isn't rusted. have been anticipating an eventual engine replacement. rebuilt or reman 4cyl engines for my 01 L100(manual trans) don't seem to be available so replacement would probably be a junk yard engine. doesn't seem feasible for a diy back yard mechanic to take it out from the bottom. 3 questions : 1. if you pull it out from the top does the hood have to come off(looks like it does). 2. is it best to pull it out leaving the transaxle attached since it would be wise to replace the clutch and slave cylinder with the unit out on the floor. plan would be to use a tripod rolling crane to pull it. 3. when you swap these engines do you have to reprogram the computer at high dealer cost. my only experience with engine swaps has been with rwd cars and seems considerably easier. thanks tons bob fisher
What I did is support the engine and the tranny, but before I setup blocks beneath, I placed the refurbished, freshly painted sub-frame directly underneath where the old rusty sub-frame is. I jacked the entire car up about 19" or so inches using a small floor jack and numerous blocks of wood. It was crazy dangerous. Once I got the entire car blocked up with 12" X 12" blocks, I raised the engine just a bit to take tension off the mounts etc... Removed all sub-frame bolds, engine mounting bolts, steering and suspension parts... then I literally cut the old rusty frame into pieces and removed it, then slowly raised the refurbished sub-frame and bolted everything back together. It worked well for several thousand miles until it developed massive oil leaks. That's another story.
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Old 04-23-2020, 10:53 PM   #12
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Default Re: Engine Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02 LW300 View Post
To answer fisherís question, I removed and installed my L61/5speed as a unit from the top.
Crazy: L series engine compartments are pretty tight right to left so be careful as you lift the engine that you donít crush the air conditioning pipe that is near the crank pulley. You have to slide the engine toward that frame rail to get the flexplate out of the bell housing. You might want to unbolt the crank pulley for more clearance. Use a floor jack under the transmission as you lift the engine.
Good luck and donít get in the line of fire. These engines are heavy, be very careful.
Andy
Great advise to pull the pulley. Thanks! So the engine is out and now to get the new one back in and try and remember all the crap I took off. It looks like there is some transmission fluid in the bottom of the bell housing. I am wondering about replacing the seal in there while I have this apart. Is the fluid normal or should I do a seal?

Thanks!
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