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Old 06-23-2012, 07:09 PM   #1
donjhunt
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Default Needing advice before attempting building of Saturn SL2 DOHC .020" bored over

Got a Saturn 2002 SL2 DOHC engine completely dismantled, about to attempt the rebuild of the engine, looking for advice.

Engine block has been to machine and bored to .020 over.
Head has been reworked and replaced all exhaust valves.
Crankshaft, camshaft and flywheel have been polished.

Have new parts consisting of:

Radiator, thermostat, water pump, new headbolts, rod bolts (coming in the mail), spark plugs, wires and coils, timing kit, clutch kit, main and rod bearings, rear seal, pistons and rings (.020 over size) engine gasket kit. oil pump. Have I missed anything?

Have purchased a subscription to ALLDATA DIY, purchased engine lube assembly grease (black tube) and bottle of ULTRA SLICK and a 1000 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight.

Have a 1/4 and 3/8 torque wrenches.

Three issues I am faced with before starting:

1) engine timing cover may have been put on too tight, oil pump does not spn freely. I used 97 inch lbs but wrench never clicked. Also used red thread locker on Torx screws.

2) Aluminum plug (looks like small thimble) has a corroded hole in it. Will try to get a close-up picture. Thought about using JB Weld , but decided to take it back to the machine shop for replacement. Will accomplish this 4th of July weekend.

3) Not sure if wish bone looking piece on end of clutch rod is broken or even necessary. Looks like a plastic wishbone. (see pics)

Do I need to purchase air compressor and blow out all passages as well as a tap set to clean out all metric threads?

Also purchased small air gun brushes to hopefully clean out oil journals but not sure that will work yet.

All comments and advice are very much appreciated. This is a major job and milestone for me to accomplish. Entering new territory .

Thanks,

Don from Dallas, TX. (actually Plano)
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Old 06-23-2012, 10:36 PM   #2
OldNuc
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Needing advice before attempting building of Saturn SL2 DOHC .020" bored over

Quote:
Originally Posted by donjhunt View Post
Got a Saturn 2002 SL2 DOHC engine completely dismantled, about to attempt the rebuild of the engine, looking for advice.

Engine block has been to machine and bored to .020 over.
Head has been reworked and replaced all exhaust valves.
Crankshaft, camshaft and flywheel have been polished.

Have new parts consisting of:

Radiator, thermostat, water pump, new headbolts, rod bolts (coming in the mail), spark plugs, wires and coils, timing kit, clutch kit, main and rod bearings, rear seal, pistons and rings (.020 over size) engine gasket kit. oil pump. Have I missed anything?

Have purchased a subscription to ALLDATA DIY, purchased engine lube assembly grease (black tube) and bottle of ULTRA SLICK and a 1000 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight.

Have a 1/4 and 3/8 torque wrenches.

Three issues I am faced with before starting:

1) engine timing cover may have been put on too tight, oil pump does not spn freely. I used 97 inch lbs but wrench never clicked. Also used red thread locker on Torx screws.
Remove pump cover for further examination to determine problem.

2) Aluminum plug (looks like small thimble) has a corroded hole in it. Will try to get a close-up picture. Thought about using JB Weld , but decided to take it back to the machine shop for replacement. Will accomplish this 4th of July weekend.

3) Not sure if wish bone looking piece on end of clutch rod is broken or even necessary. Looks like a plastic wishbone. (see pics)
Put it back on the slave rod where it belongs, clutch will not function without it. Also remove slave from bell housing. Follow instructions at ALLData.

Do I need to purchase air compressor and blow out all passages as well as a tap set to clean out all metric threads?
Compressor is nice. Metric taps are not required fiber bristle brushes and an electric drill is adequate. Do not use any metal brush on aluminum.

Also purchased small air gun brushes to hopefully clean out oil journals but not sure that will work yet.
Compressed air works for this as well.

All comments and advice are very much appreciated. This is a major job and milestone for me to accomplish. Entering new territory .

Thanks,

Don from Dallas, TX. (actually Plano)
This is going to take a while...
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:35 PM   #3
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Far Southwestern Iowa
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1998 SC2
Default Re: Needing advice before attempting building of Saturn SL2 DOHC .020" bored over

Correct head installation..
Clean the head bolt holes with a fiber brush and blow out with compressed air. Clean the head and block mating surfaces with acetone. Set your new gasket on the block in the correct position so the oil port is not blocked. Carefully set the head on the gasket and do not scratch the head or block. If the bolts seem to be oily when you pull them out of the box wipe them off with a clean dry rag and don't leave any lint on them. Now screw all the NEW head bolts in by hand and torque them in order and stages to the 48ft-lb final value.

DOHC head torquing procedure

Initial dry bolt torque in sequence to 48ft-lb following the torquing pattern in stages to 20ft-lb, 30ft-lb, and final 48ft-lb. This establishes the proper clamp load on the gasket.

This is followed by removal in about 1/4 turn in sequence until loose.

Bolts washers, threads and bolt heads are oiled with clean engine oil and reinstalled finger tight.

Torqued in sequence to 22 ft-lb then 37ft-lb and then additional 90 degree turn.

The 90 degrees is important so do not guess at the 90 degrees. You can eyeball it and use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and always make the 90 degree turn in a single smooth motion.

If this is not followed the new gasket will end up leaking.

Torquing sequence
intake side
8-4-1-5-9
7-3-2-6-10
exhaust side

This is done right before the first start.
To prime the oil system on a Saturn engine after a complete overhaul, head replacement, timing chain replacement or long term storage perform the following steps.
-Fill crankcase with 4 1/2 quarts of fresh new 5w-30 oil if this is the initial fill following a rebuild otherwise use 4 quarts of oil. Use a decent quality name brand oil.
-Fill a squirt pistol type oiler with the same oil.
-Squirt oil into the square port on the right side of the filter base do this several times until you can not get more oil to stay in it. This will take 4 to 6 ounces of oil.
-Fill the new oil filter a bit more than 1/2 full and screw it in place.
-Remove the PCM B fuse from the UHJB (under hood fuse box). This will prevent the fuel pump and injectors from operating while priming.
-Remove spark plugs.
-Place 1 squirt of 5w-30 oil in each cylinder.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine with the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. This may take several 20-30 second runs of the starter.
-Release key when the oil pressure light goes off.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine again until oil pressure light goes out. Repeat 2 times.
-Replace spark plugs.
-Replace PCM B fuse.
-Prime fuel system by turning key to on but not crank and wait until pump stops, turn key to off, wait 30 seconds. Repeat 2 times.
-Start engine.

Following start....
After start.
-If engine running as expected continue to let it sit and idle while you inspect for leaks and other off normal behavior.
-Do not touch the gas!
-Allow to sit and idle until the fan cycles on and off twice.
-Shutdown engine and allow a 30minute oil drain down time
-Replace the oil filter with a Pure One PL20195 or Mobil-1 209 filter and a name brand high quality synthetic blend oil. Valvoline works or Casterol.
-Drive care conservatively, no steady RPM operation and hold max top gear RPM to ~3000 RPM
-Closely monitor oil level by parking in the exact same spot and checking level after a 6 hour minimum drain down time. Maintain oil level at the Full mark or up to the lower edge of the "U" in full.
-Once it has been established that oil consumption is zero change oil and filter.
-At this point using a high end 100% PAO synthetic oil is the best option.
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