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Old 04-30-2020, 03:52 PM   #21
Rj 2000 LS2
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

Brandon, I can't say the brakes work any better old fluid to new fluid... they worked either way just as they should. The new pads etc... made them work better and quieter.

I wouldn't waste money on that brake vacuum kit. Bleeding brakes isn't rocket science. The key is to not allow air to enter the line and using the DIY brake bleeder I described worked great. However, I was purposely flushing out the old fluid so I had a constant flow of fluid coming out and flowing into the plastic bottle. As long as there was fluid in the connector tube, I simply closed off the bleeder valve and there is no chance of air enter the brake line, done one at a time in the specific order previously mentioned.

Background of my DIY brake job. After I changed the front rotors/pads and back pads, the brakes were very soft as the peddle went to the floor. I made the DIY brake bleeder and decided to flush out the entire brake system. After I did that... the peddle was firm and the brakes worked just like that had.
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Old 04-30-2020, 04:36 PM   #22
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
Brandon, I can't say the brakes work any better old fluid to new fluid... they worked either way just as they should. The new pads etc... made them work better and quieter.

I wouldn't waste money on that brake vacuum kit. Bleeding brakes isn't rocket science. The key is to not allow air to enter the line and using the DIY brake bleeder I described worked great. However, I was purposely flushing out the old fluid so I had a constant flow of fluid coming out and flowing into the plastic bottle. As long as there was fluid in the connector tube, I simply closed off the bleeder valve and there is no chance of air enter the brake line, done one at a time in the specific order previously mentioned.

Background of my DIY brake job. After I changed the front rotors/pads and back pads, the brakes were very soft as the peddle went to the floor. I made the DIY brake bleeder and decided to flush out the entire brake system. After I did that... the peddle was firm and the brakes worked just like that had.
Rj,

Thank you for the tip on the closing the bleeder valve bolts with visible fluid in the connector tube. That is very helpful knowing that it ensures no air gets trapped inside as you all are explaining to me.
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Old 04-30-2020, 06:32 PM   #23
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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fdryer, To better understand what you are describing here regarding the kit I shared from amazon. Just stand-alone; is this not sufficient for a 1 man person? I read on the description that it does allow for that....I have been an electronic version that is close to $100; however it requires adapters with it that are several hundred dollars (way out of my budget unless it's something I must save for to do this safely)....You seem like you really know how to make your own tools. That's quite the skill-set to have!
I read the specs in that link and if I'm not mistaken, I didn't find anything to account for loose bleed screws allowing air around it when its open for bleeding the brake line using vacuum. This by no means a fault of the vacuum bleed equipment. Not only did I find this annoying on several occasions from my home made unit but my brother-in-law repairs cars in a collision shop with some as full restorations. He complained of commercial brake vacuum pumps also sucking air around open bleed screws. I'm not alone in this - after he tried bleeding a restored '60s Corvette, he still had problems and asked me to help - the reliable two man brake bleeding procedures. His commercial quality brake vacuum bleeder is fine, The bleed screws on almost every vehicle are not designed for vacuum bleeding. They're designed for pressurized brake bleeding.

My first project was to adapt a garden sprayer for pressure brake bleeding after reviewing many articles from many sources. All I did was copy the basic ideas before trying it. (success) I'm not a genius but do understand hydraulics and brake systems so it wasn't difficult to make a home made brake pressure unit. They're available from ebay too from one or two places. Making this isn't rocket science but does require knowledge. The second project to create a vacuum bleeder was just as easy but when the bleed screws allowed air into the bleeding procedure, I was disappointed. The vacuum equipment I made is fine and works flawlessly. The results of air mixed in with brake fluid makes it difficult to determine if air came from the brake lines and calipers, from the bleed screw or both. I've use two person bleeding, pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding so I have choices for the best outcome - safe brakes no different from many diyers performing their own brake repairs.

Whether pressure or vacuum bleeding, it's important to understand brake systems and not jump into repairs as this is a risk to your safety and anyone sharing the roads with you if a mistake is made in brake repairs. Brake bleeding, replacing brake parts are not for everyone without a clue to hazards and dangers if something is overlooked resulting in zero braking after repairs or some time afterwards. If anyone is not willing to accept sole responsibility in brake repairs if something should go wrong resulting in damage to property or injury to people then brake repairs should be left to professionals fully aware of this liability issue.
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:10 PM   #24
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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Brandon, I can't say the brakes work any better old fluid to new fluid... they worked either way just as they should. The new pads etc... made them work better and quieter......
Whether clean or dirty, brake fluid tends to perform its basic function. However, with time this hydraulic fluid begins to break down, losing some of its capacity to avoid boiling when under pressure in the brake system whenever the brakes are applied. If brake fluid begins to boil even slightly then the brake fading becomes possible and hence an accident may follow as a result. The reason for replacing the fluid is to keep the system at peak performance by maintaining its ability avert a brake fade issue. This is the reason why factory manuals require replacement of brake fluid at each brake service (apart from the likelihood that it's also a cheap way to avoid an expensive law suit if someone believes their brake job was done incorrectly).
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Old 04-30-2020, 07:41 PM   #25
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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I read the specs in that link and if I'm not mistaken, I didn't find anything to account for loose bleed screws allowing air around it when its open for bleeding the brake line using vacuum. This by no means a fault of the vacuum bleed equipment. Not only did I find this annoying on several occasions from my home made unit but my brother-in-law repairs cars in a collision shop with some as full restorations. He complained of commercial brake vacuum pumps also sucking air around open bleed screws. I'm not alone in this - after he tried bleeding a restored '60s Corvette, he still had problems and asked me to help - the reliable two man brake bleeding procedures. His commercial quality brake vacuum bleeder is fine, The bleed screws on almost every vehicle are not designed for vacuum bleeding. They're designed for pressurized brake bleeding.

My first project was to adapt a garden sprayer for pressure brake bleeding after reviewing many articles from many sources. All I did was copy the basic ideas before trying it. (success) I'm not a genius but do understand hydraulics and brake systems so it wasn't difficult to make a home made brake pressure unit. They're available from ebay too from one or two places. Making this isn't rocket science but does require knowledge. The second project to create a vacuum bleeder was just as easy but when the bleed screws allowed air into the bleeding procedure, I was disappointed. The vacuum equipment I made is fine and works flawlessly. The results of air mixed in with brake fluid makes it difficult to determine if air came from the brake lines and calipers, from the bleed screw or both. I've use two person bleeding, pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding so I have choices for the best outcome - safe brakes no different from many diyers performing their own brake repairs.

Whether pressure or vacuum bleeding, it's important to understand brake systems and not jump into repairs as this is a risk to your safety and anyone sharing the roads with you if a mistake is made in brake repairs. Brake bleeding, replacing brake parts are not for everyone without a clue to hazards and dangers if something is overlooked resulting in zero braking after repairs or some time afterwards. If anyone is not willing to accept sole responsibility in brake repairs if something should go wrong resulting in damage to property or injury to people then brake repairs should be left to professionals fully aware of this liability issue.
fdryer,

I would disagree about you not being a genius. However modest, I enjoy reading about your DIY tools.

I must say; you are a scaring the sh1t out of me regarding the brake system. However it's too late. I've had bad brakes go out on a car before like I said before.

I was doing another Amazon search (I am not rushing this onto the road until it's 100%; just a heads up) and I think I may have found a better solution for a 1 man newbie DIY automobile repair man like myself. (It would be nice to get some feedback and if this would work better).

This is called : Phoenix Systems (2003-B) V-12 Reverse Brake & Clutch Bleeder Kit, Medium Duty One Person Bleeder, Hard Case

And it's addressing backwards bleeding (with amazon filters on for 2001 Saturn L300) ; claims it works for my car.

Look at the picture; it looks cool because it appears as if it pushes the air forwards.

Is this new technology? Do you believe this would be a safer bet for someone like myself?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg reverse_bleeding_61QDS54uDIL._AC_SL1000_.jpg (46.5 KB, 5 views)
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Old 04-30-2020, 08:10 PM   #26
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

Okay,

Regarding that last product I was looking at and for feedback (I was looking more into it and reviews and it doesn't seem like the winner for my situation).

The only other powered options on amazon that I can find is... It looks promising... it even has 11mm wrench w/ tubing that prevents backflow it says.

FIRSTINFO Upgraded 2 Liter Air Pneumatic Vacuum Brake Fluid Bleeder/Extractor/Pump Include 4.9 ft Long Silicon Bleeding Hose with Non-Return Check Valve

https://www.amazon.com/FIRSTINFO-Upg.../dp/B00YF83X6G

FIRSTINFO 7-12mm & 3/8-Inch Drive Brake Fluid Clutch Bleeder Hose w/12 Point Wrench and Check Valve 7-Piece Kit For Brake Bleeding & Hydraulic Clutch Systems

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7CQLX

Ohhh... the review that made me jump out of my seat to write this post was one of the reviews said "the pedal went to the floor".

So that would eliminate the need for a second person and it actually does what a human would be doing in the drivers seat by the way it operates? Is that my understanding. I am not certain.
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Old 04-30-2020, 09:22 PM   #27
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

The FIRSTINFO vacuum bleeder requires a source of pressurized air to operate it. Examine the image - on the upper right side of the handle is an air fitting to connect an air pressure hose to it. This is similar to the one my b-i-l uses as well as many repair shops. Unless you have a source of pressurized air, this may be overkill for a diyer unless you have money. Repair shops usually have large tanks to store air along with a large air compressor to use pneumatic tools.

The set of bleed wrenches and bleed screws are for pressure bleeding. If I'm not mistaken, even with a one way check valve and opened bleed screw on brakes, there's no guarantee when pumping the brake pedal, return pedal travel won't pull air into the brake system at the bleed screw. There's quite a bit to know about hydraulic systems and how air ruins or degrades brake systems. Personally, I wouldn't recommend this kit to beginners.

Unless you have worked on brakes with someone to learn how things work, I think you may be in over your head attempting to perform your first brake service without prior experience.
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:42 AM   #28
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

I have never spent much money at all on special bleed kits. I learned this from older brother when I was in my teens and repairing my car when I had no money. I have a small length of clear plastic tubing (you can get this from auto stores, Lowes, HD) that is snug enough to grip over the bleed nipple. At container is none other than a jam jar with a hole drilled in the lid for the tube to fit through. You pour some brake fluid in the jar so that the end of the tube is submerged. That way NO air can be drawn back in. One person sits in the car and pumps the brake pedal, the other person is at the nipple end and loosens the nipple slightly, then shouts the push down instruction, all the while watching the fluid flow. Once you see no air bubbles, you shout push and hold down on the pedal. Snug up the nipple and move onto the next corner.

It is not rocket science. You just need another person, anyone can do, so long as they are not a leg amputee and deaf. You said you have helped your BIL with his car. How about him returning the favor? Or just ask a neighbor. It's a good way of getting to know your neighbor.
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Old 05-01-2020, 11:27 AM   #29
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

No expensive vacuum is necessary to bleed brakes. Here is the concept. As long as the hose is full of brake fluid and still under the brake fluid in the container... and all bubbles are gone... you close the bleeder valve, done. Even IF a bit of brake fluid is pulled back into the caliper once the brake pumping is complete... only fluid will back fill into the caliper which is perfectly fine. Air in the brake lines is where trouble begins and using this method all air can be purged from the brake lines/calipers with only one person. It does work better if some one else pumps the brakes so you can verify when all air bubbles are purged from the brakes and when the fluid changes colors from black to clear as the new fluid replaces the old. See attached photo.

Rule:
1) Never open a bleeder valve without a hose connected to the bleeder and the other end of the hose under brake fluid in the attached container.
2) Once the hose is connected, verify the brake reservoir is full, if not top it off before pumping brakes.
3) Always only close bleeder while the entire hose is full of fluid and under the waste fluid in the container.
4) Never open a bleeder valve without completing steps 1 - 3.
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Old 05-01-2020, 11:28 AM   #30
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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I have never spent much money at all on special bleed kits. I learned this from older brother when I was in my teens and repairing my car when I had no money. I have a small length of clear plastic tubing (you can get this from auto stores, Lowes, HD) that is snug enough to grip over the bleed nipple. At container is none other than a jam jar with a hole drilled in the lid for the tube to fit through. You pour some brake fluid in the jar so that the end of the tube is submerged. That way NO air can be drawn back in. One person sits in the car and pumps the brake pedal, the other person is at the nipple end and loosens the nipple slightly, then shouts the push down instruction, all the while watching the fluid flow. Once you see no air bubbles, you shout push and hold down on the pedal. Snug up the nipple and move onto the next corner.

It is not rocket science. You just need another person, anyone can do, so long as they are not a leg amputee and deaf. You said you have helped your BIL with his car. How about him returning the favor? Or just ask a neighbor. It's a good way of getting to know your neighbor.
florida,

That wasn't me who mentioned my brother in law. I am pretty certain that was fdryer. Thank you for the detailed breakdown of the basics of brake bleeding.

I have moved the car 12 inches maybe (Moved the car outward from the curb to get the jack on the middle side of the right side of the vehicle to even get into this predicament with the break caliber compromising).

I have used the brake since; does this affect what you describe?

I don't know if you are making a joke regarding disabilities; my neighbors are also disabled. I live in disabled housing.

Is it too late to get the air out that I brought in by doing what I have already done (if I can either a) find a 1 man kit to do it for me or b) actually find somebody who can assist me) ?

Thanks!
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Old 05-01-2020, 12:26 PM   #31
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

It would only be Too Late to remove air IF you left the bleeder open and pumped the brake for days or hours until all brake fluid has been pumped out of the system and it fills with air after the reservoir went dry. Until that happens you can use the bleeder concept as I described earlier. But, even then you could refill the system systematically by filling the reservoir constantly and bleeding each brake in the correct order. Once the ABS system if free of air and each caliper is free of air... the system is good. What you want is only fluid from end to end with no air in the system. Fluid can not be compressed, but air can. This is why air in the brake system is dangerous because it can cause the brakes to fail.
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Old 05-01-2020, 01:13 PM   #32
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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It would only be Too Late to remove air IF you left the bleeder open and pumped the brake for days or hours until all brake fluid has been pumped out of the system and it fills with air after the reservoir went dry. Until that happens you can use the bleeder concept as I described earlier. But, even then you could refill the system systematically by filling the reservoir constantly and bleeding each brake in the correct order. Once the ABS system if free of air and each caliper is free of air... the system is good. What you want is only fluid from end to end with no air in the system. Fluid can not be compressed, but air can. This is why air in the brake system is dangerous because it can cause the brakes to fail.
Rj,

That's good to know. I looked at the resovoir and it looks as if nothing even leaked out. (I didn't lose that much fluid)... very little; but enough to concern me as it got on my brake discs.

Regarding air in the brake system causing failure... does this mean that an air bubble can "eventually" work it's way to a specific part in the braking system and then brakes fail? Is that how it works?
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Old 05-01-2020, 01:23 PM   #33
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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...Regarding air in the brake system causing failure... does this mean that an air bubble can "eventually" work it's way to a specific part in the braking system and then brakes fail? Is that how it works?
Take a look at the link below. It explains very simply what happens when air is present in the brake hydraulic system.

https://itstillruns.com/air-brake-line-6362676.html

The next link describes the result of having air trapped in the system and the danger associated with it.

https://www.answers.com/Q/What_happe...braking_system
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Old 05-01-2020, 03:03 PM   #34
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

pierrot links two sites explaining air in brake systems. Review your 'new' manuals for a complete explanation of your brake system.
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Old 05-01-2020, 03:32 PM   #35
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

Brandon,

It was a feeble attempt at humor. I don;t think the USA understands British humor. For someone to do the pedal pushing; a) they need to have a leg and b) they need to have hearing to hear you shout press, hold, etc.

Jokes you have to explain have obviously failed.

If you cannot find anyone to help you, then invest in a one way bleed valve like in this link

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08..._t2_B00REU0QH6

All you do is snug one end onto the bleed nipple and pop the other end into a container just for cleanliness sake. The one way valve opeartes as its name suggest - only way. So when you press the brake pedal down it pushes out fluid and air, but the valve stops anything coming back the other way. I had one of these years ago, but lost it. It did work.
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Old 05-01-2020, 03:47 PM   #36
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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Brandon,

It was a feeble attempt at humor. I don;t think the USA understands British humor. For someone to do the pedal pushing; a) they need to have a leg and b) they need to have hearing to hear you shout press, hold, etc.

Jokes you have to explain have obviously failed.
Well, floridasl22002, I got the joke the first time I read through it. This despite the fact that I'm born, raised, and am raising a family here in SoCal. "Whooda thunk it?"

Winston Churchill pointed out a remarkably quirky truth that Britain and America were a people divided by a common language, and he could not have been more correct! Oh well...
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Old 05-13-2020, 10:27 AM   #37
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Wrench Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

I just wanted to update this thread that today during my morning idle. The ABS light turned on for the first time ever since it has been in my ownership and since I compromised the ABS system / braking system by draining brake fluid from the caliber bolts (x 4 11mm); big mistake!

I immediately turned off the car this morning when the light came on. I then plugged in the OBDII and read codes and it resulted in a null value; zero results.

My guess is the ABS sensor's have now detected air in the brake lines? It will go away once I complete this 4 x caliber brake bleeding?

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Old 05-13-2020, 11:40 AM   #38
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

Unless your reader specs lists decoding abs error codes, the majority of genetic readers aren't capable of decoding abs error codes. OBD II is mainly emissions related so brakes, hvac, airbags aren't emissions related. If you noticed, separate indicators exist for each; check engine light for all emissions errors, abs light for abs/tc/esc errors, and airbag light for airbag errors. The cel covers engine and xmission error codes. The abs/tc/esc light covers abs brake error codes. The airbag light covers airbag error codes.

Several members here in the last year or so have discovered their AutoZone's upgraded their store readers to decode abs errors. For years, almost every auto store and one xmission chain provided free OBD II readings but only for emissions errors. Now AutoZone provides OBD II and abs reading. Call your local AutoZone and ask if they can decode abs error codes. Each module has its own memory with emissions a priority for years until vehicles aged and abs errors began popping up. This led to AutoZone deciding to upgrade their readers. More customers.
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Old 05-13-2020, 01:49 PM   #39
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

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Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Unless your reader specs lists decoding abs error codes, the majority of genetic readers aren't capable of decoding abs error codes. OBD II is mainly emissions related so brakes, hvac, airbags aren't emissions related. If you noticed, separate indicators exist for each; check engine light for all emissions errors, abs light for abs/tc/esc errors, and airbag light for airbag errors. The cel covers engine and xmission error codes. The abs/tc/esc light covers abs brake error codes. The airbag light covers airbag error codes.

Several members here in the last year or so have discovered their AutoZone's upgraded their store readers to decode abs errors. For years, almost every auto store and one xmission chain provided free OBD II readings but only for emissions errors. Now AutoZone provides OBD II and abs reading. Call your local AutoZone and ask if they can decode abs error codes. Each module has its own memory with emissions a priority for years until vehicles aged and abs errors began popping up. This led to AutoZone deciding to upgrade their readers. More customers.
fdryer,

I will have to look at the factory service manual and see if I can look through any ABS codes if it contains any. If so; find the one that closely resembles what would trigger my compromising the ABS / caliber bolt removal whoops and then trouble shoot from there?

Perhaps the light goes off once the brakes are bled?

AutoZone requires an advanced payment for a loan on an OBD II device and O'Reilly's allows on site vehicles only. (I only once had a local let me anyways because I lived down the road and had a ride that day).

I have my little one that as you say doesn't decode ABS; makes sense now. And I also have the USB OBD II which I haven't checked the features list on py-obd python-obd (unless it's not capable of decoding via an OBD II cable).

Fingers crossed one of the open source software packages will interface and dump/decode exact ABS error codes.

It is good to know that in the future I could save and then go in to AutoZone and utilize their ABS decoding equipment, though.
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Old 05-13-2020, 04:27 PM   #40
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Rear Brake Pad Swap (Special Tool Needed) ?

My presumptions of free readings from A-z are that vehicles are driven to their parking lots so an A-z employee can come outside and plug in their reader. Renting (free) a reader falls inline with their policy of free tool loaners
when cash or credit card imprint is applied as insurance against a non returned or damaged tool.

There needs to be some clarification of vehicle brake systems. There are basically two separate brake systems integrated to allow seamless braking with or without abs/tc/esc. The first and primary brake system is the hydraulically operated brakes. With engine running, press brake pedal and power assisted braking amplifies foot pressure to apply braking from hydraulic pressure. Without power assist, braking takes more pedal effort to brake a vehicle. This is the basic brake system. The red brake light alerts drivers to two possible issues; parking brake applied and not released before driving or low brake fluid in the brake reservoir. Regardless of whether abs/tc/esc is available and operating or not, the basic brake system is a priority. If abs/tc/esc fails, this does not mean the basic brake system failed. The abs light will turn on to indicate an error to the abs/tc/esc system, not the brake system. Be very clear about the two. One system (abs) will not affect the other (main brake system) if it fails (turn on abs light).

Abs/tc/esc has always been an enhancement to the basic brake system. If for any reason abs/tc/esc fails, the abs light turns on while the red brake light remains off to indicate brakes still work but abs/tc/esc is lost and does not imperil drivers. Brakes work as they always did before abs was added and still work when abs fails. There's a reason for the two lights - separating the main brake system from the abs/tc/esc system. Do not be concerned about the abs light as this means something in the abs system occurred, triggered the abs error light, stores the error code in the abs unit (not ecm, pcm, bcm), and will output the error code when a reader capable of decoding abs error codes is plugged in. Remember, brakes are far more important than having abs/tc/esc. Basic brake systems always use hydraulic systems that are fool proof when serviced correctly because its basic hydraulics and pressures to operate slave cylinders (disc or drum brakes). Electronics governs how abs/tc/esc operates and if they fail, do not affect braking at all.

If you manage to make brake repairs to allow driving and braking safely, a visit to A-z and having them decode the abs error code(s) may be easier than contemplating the abs light and wondering how this affects regular braking. Abs failure does not affect hydraulics.

With some info given, bleeding brakes will not turn off the abs light. One has nothing to do with the other, period. The abs error may be as simple as breaking, damaging or disconnecting one abs connection, the one on the disc brake you're working on. Losing brake fluid does not turn on the abs light, period. A small two wire black harness connects each abs wheel speed sensor to the abs unit next to the brake master cylinder. Only one wire needs to be damaged, broken or disconnected to trigger the abs light to turn on and stay on. This means an error code is stored in the abs unit for a reader to decode to tell you where the problem lies. I'm guessing the error is on the disc brake you're working on. If I'm wrong then a OBDII/abs reader will point the way.

Please don't dwell on open source info. Abs readers are already offered online as dedicated readers. Why buy a separate abs reader when auto stores are offering free readings?
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