Installing Cruise Control SL1

[Jim@HiTek]

Saturn SL1 67K miles.

Car did not come with cruise control.

Because I wanted cruise control (CC) I bought a guaranteed & tested salvage setup consisting of the under dash gas pedal control box, and the CC steering wheel with the installed switches.

There is a wiring bundle and connector for the gas pedal control box and that is connected.

Installed those two items and the CC light lights up, but the CC does not function. I did get up over 35 MPH for testing. Tried over several miles to get any operation and other then the CC light staying lit, no indication it works.

When plugging everything in, I was sure the CC's wiring for both switches (Off/On & Resume/Coast) interconnected with existing wiring. According to the Chassis electrical drawing I have, there's only two functional wires for those two switches (works along with the ground wire going to the steering wheel's metal portion) and I'm fairly certain I didn't miss any hidden connector. Don't see anywhere to connect an extra connector to existing wiring in the steering column anyway.

What am I forgetting or missing?

Anyone else do this before and know of a complete guide?

Does anyone have a link to a test I can run to verify operation?

Thanks for any help!

[trottida]

The BCM needs to be programmed to enable the cruise control using a GM Tech2 scanner. It's basically a switch in the software (flip a bit). You can alternatively swap out the BCM for one optioned with cruise control and all the other options you have on your car but there is a subsequent process to pair the PCM and BCM (applicable to Gen3 S Series). If not followed then you disable your car because of the BCM security programming. If not done right then you have to have it reprogrammed anyways (flashed).

Programming the BCM typically can only be done by a GM dealer and the knowledge on how to do it is somewhat weak given the age of the Saturn S Series. When I did mine 8+ years ago they charged the minimum shop charge which was 1 hour labour ($108 CAD at the time). Some have been able to get a community college autoshop (with a GM Tech2) to do the work. Others have been able to negotiate with the GM dealer for 1/2 hour shop time. If they know how to do it it takes less than 15 minute I believe.

OldNuc has a Tech2 screenshot in his photo library that show the screen where it is enabled. I think the path to get there is also included. Bring this with you to the dealer.

Here is a link to said screenshot >> OBD-II PCM Options

Read this thread >> http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...=167370&page=2

[Jim@HiTek]

I've read and thought I understood that the models 1999 and earlier required that bit to be set, but not those 2000 and up. One poster here on the forum back in 2011 said he couldn't get his to work until he changed the steering column...but no explanation what might have been different. Didn't say anything about going to the dealer. Neither have other threads I've found for 'newer' Saturns.

Not saying you're wrong, just confused by what I've read.

Which one of yours did you add a CC?

Thanks.

[trottida]

Originally Posted by Jim@HiTek

I've read and thought I understood that the models 1999 and earlier required that bit to be set, but not those 2000 and up. One poster here on the forum back in 2011 said he couldn't get his to work until he changed the steering column...but no explanation what might have been different. Didn't say anything about going to the dealer. Neither have other threads I've found for 'newer' Saturns.

Not saying you're wrong, just confused by what I've read.

Which one of yours did you add a CC?

Thanks.

The 2001 SL1. I can confirm it definitely does need to be programmed for it to work in a Gen3. Until I had it programmed, I had the exact same results - CC light displays but CC does not work.

Steering column replacement was likely because the steering wheel CC wiring was not present and the clock spring needed to be replaced (I suspect). This was the case for a small number of Gen3 S Series. Most came with the wiring included regardless of if you had the cruise control option from the factory.

I think you have it backwards, Gen1 definitely did not need programming and early Gen2 (if not all) came with it enabled. There was no BCM in 1991 through 1999 S Series; it was introduced in the Gen3 models.

[Jim@HiTek]

Great. Thanks for the info.

So now I know for sure that I need that done, told by someone who did it. I'll get it done here eventually. Have already contacted the local GM dealer.

I am a full time RV'er so I have the luxury of checking wherever I happen to be at the time during my travels for a GM or auto shop with a a GM Tech2 tool to program if for me. If I don't like the price, or they don't seem to know what they're doing I'll just move on and ask shops at my next stop.

Eventually, I'll probably run into a experienced shop that needs the work for a reasonable price. If not, I'll just bite the bullet and do it...gotta have me some CC.

Thanks again!

[trottida]

Your welcome. I suppose I should have stated I did it when I advised you in your other post a few months ago. Regardless, your traveling in the right direction now. Happy trails!

[Jim@HiTek]

I do tend to work on projects in short spurts. And I'd forgotten about that earlier post. Somehow though, despite working that way I get things done eventually. Doing it that way makes remembering details problematic sometimes so I try to keep notes. I'd probably be better off just working on one project at a time straight through to completion, but what fun is that?

[fetchitfido]

If any of the S-Series don't need PCM programming to get CC to work it'd be '91-'95's as the CC system is pretty independent of the PCM while starting in '96 it's integrated into the PCM.

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by Jim@HiTek

I do tend to work on projects in short spurts. And I'd forgotten about that earlier post. . . . . Doing it that way makes remembering details problematic sometimes

BTDT. A few months ago, I was panicked after checking my spark plugs.

Saw an unfamiliar straight line cut into each of the plugs' center electrodes and wondered what kind of electrical malfunction in the ignition could cause it to burn like that.

Took someone to remind me, "that's what the 'V' in the V-tipped plugs look like" before I remembered, "Oh, yeah, I installed V-tipped plugs last time and even posted about it here"

But I did get a tip from OldNuc to go one range colder and that helped (checked them again a while ago) so I have that going for me, which is nice

[Jim@HiTek]

Just got back from a local auto shop, and by the looks of it, a very successful and competent shop. The mechanic, Jeff, did read this instruction sheet a couple times. I printed it off of a thread I found on Saturnfans:

"April 17, 2017 – Saturnfans.com
Anyone wanting to add cruise to a OBDII Saturn and finding that after you install the servo and switch, all you get is the green "ON" light, any shop with a GM Tech-II should be able to enable the cruise for you. This is NOT a PCM reflash and all that is required is the standard Tech-II OBD connector (not the PC-Tech pass through). All they need to do is to access the reprogramming >Powertrain >Special functions > Engine output controls screen and key in the correct options to turn it on. Found this in another thread don't know if it is correct."

Came into the waiting area after 30 minutes and told me he couldn't do it, and took me out to the shop to watch what he was doing. His device, a large hand held multi-buttoned electronic tool with LCD display, plugged into my car's OBDII socket using a black non-feed through connection.

As best as I could tell he used the tools buttons to navigate to the right places but could NOT reset the Cruise Control bit. The CC setting was shown on his GM Tech-II tool screen, but the OFF could not be set to ON. He navigated there from two different decision trees within the tool and the results were the same, could not reset CC Off to On. The Calibration ID for my car is 21009188...though I don't know if that helps to know that.

He initially thought it could be done, but after working on it, now says this particular PCM cannot be changed to handle CC so he offered these suggestions:

1) Contact GM directly and see if they still reprogram the PCM (doubtful, and very expensive).
2) Find someone with a RED connector head for their GM Tech tool. That's the actual tool needed to change the computer bit. His is black. No one in this town has one, he suggested searching shops in Phoenix. He said MY pcm DID need a reflash despite what the paper said.
3) Find a junk yard PCM from a car that originally had CC. This is difficult, as there aren't a lot of Saturn's in local yards.

So I'm going to see if I can find one on eBay...but can anyone give some guidance of what I am looking for? So I don't buy the wrong type or model? Or is there something else I should show the guy that might get around the issue?

Thanks!

If he'd been able to reprogram my PCM, he was going to charge me $54...

[OldNuc]

You need an ECU/PCM from a SOHC car with the same type of transmission you have(manual/Automatic) that also had cruise installed. ABS may also be required to match. CALL these guys ( http://www.saturnautosalvage.com/ ) and see if they have one. Any 00-02 should swap in but for the 00 year match the Air injection also.

There are older Tech-2s that do not require the red connector that will do the job. Automotive tech schools tend to have this equipment you need to change those settings.

[Jim@HiTek]

Thanks, OldNuc, I have an AT, SOHC, with ABS so that's what I'll be asking them at Saturn Salvage. Thanks for the link...Already sent them an email.

I've looked at 10's of PCM/ECM listings on eBay and sure, most of them say AUTOMATIC but none of them mention ABS or Cruise Control.

And several of them say I have to match my model number...all of which are strangely similar to the Cal ID of 21009188 the Tech II tool showed for mine. Is that Cal ID the number they're talking about? Or is that NOT the model number?

[OldNuc]

E-mail will not work as they get way too much spam. Phone call is all that works.

eBay has no idea of the other items as they just send the car stripper out to grab them along with the VIN. If you can get the VIN then IF you can find a free RPO code lookup from the vin you will find out whatever else was on the car.

21009188 this is the firmware revision and a real Chevy dealer could probably turn on cruise as tehy have all the right connectors. This can be accomplished by just reflashing the PCM with the latest calibration or flipping the bit. Unfortunately it will cost more but is usually worth it. The assumption here is teh Chevy dealer has a qualified Saturn S-Series tech on the payroll and I would ask that as the old procedure is not like the new one.

[Jim@HiTek]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

E-mail will not work as they get way too much spam. Phone call is all that works.

eBay has no idea of the other items as they just send the car stripper out to grab them along with the VIN. If you can get the VIN then IF you can find a free RPO code lookup from the vin you will find out whatever else was on the car.

21009188 this is the firmware revision and a real Chevy dealer could probably turn on cruise as tehy have all the right connectors. This can be accomplished by just reflashing the PCM with the latest calibration or flipping the bit. Unfortunately it will cost more but is usually worth it. The assumption here is teh Chevy dealer has a qualified Saturn S-Series tech on the payroll and I would ask that as the old procedure is not like the new one.

OK.. Thanks for the info.

So I gather that I have two choices, call Saturn Auto Salvage and see if they can match up my needs with something they have,

OR

Take my car into a Chevy dealer after verifying they have an old school tech that knows how, and has the red connector Tech II tool, and have them reflash the PCM, upgrading the firmware, and flipping the bit.

Sound about right?

[OldNuc]

Originally Posted by Jim@HiTek

OK.. Thanks for the info.

So I gather that I have two choices, call Saturn Auto Salvage and see if they can match up my needs with something they have,

OR

Take my car into a Chevy dealer after verifying they have an old school tech that knows how, and has the red connector Tech II tool, and have them reflash the PCM, upgrading the firmware, and flipping the bit.

Sound about right?

The older Tech-2 did not need that special connector as all of them were setup for bidirectional operation. When you reflash you select each option and in your case you set cruise to installed and it all happens. That is why you reflash but if the tech just runs Auto select the system reads the VIN RPO codes and sets the defaults which in your case is no cruise. This is why you need someone who actually knows what they are doing.

[bluesl2]

The red programming adapter boosted programming voltage up to 18 volts or so I believe. The last thing you want when in the middle of a reflash is low voltage.

[OldNuc]

The purpose was to prevent inadvertent bit flipping. The programming or write function is disabled in the connector in the newer devices. Dealers either have the older fully functional units or the red programming connector. All programming requires an elevated voltage by design so inadvertent random probing in the data connector does not cause damage when 12v is connected to the programming enable line.

[PrestonIII]

I actually did the modification that you're trying. The one thing that you may need to consider is that the "clock spring" below the steering wheel needs to be changed, because a cruise control steering wheel needs more conductors than a non-cruise control steering wheel, that being the cruise control wires! In my case, the clock spring was different. Not sure about your case.

The clock spring is that flat pack of ribbon wire that sits below the steering wheel, and plugs into the steering wheel above, and the harness of the steering column below.

Be very careful how that clock spring gets installed. The center spins with the wheel, and it's rotation needs to be centered between it's two rotational extremes when the steering wheel is centered straight ahead. If it's not centered, there's a good chance that it can be broken "open circuited" when turning the steering wheel to one of it's rotational extremes. A new one comes locked at that center point when purchased, but one scavenged from a salvage vehicle wont be locked in that position.

[OldNuc]

If you have the connector for the wheel switch then you have the correct clock spring, some do and some do not but it is usually obvious as you have to change the wheel and connect the plug.

[Jim@HiTek]

I carefully checked for connectors and looked at the schematic for the cruise control wheel and I had the appropriate connectors and number of wires. Found places to plug them both in. The CC only needs two wires.