2002 Saturn SL1 Quill Seal Removal

[OldNuc]

You are supposed to transfer the pins from the old flywheel to the new one. They punch out from the back side. The holes for pins are present. More than likely your issue is air in the hydraulics. That would be the part I would replace. If the other flywheel has pins then use it as they are all the same. The yellow spring is not compressed enough.

[ssicarman]

From the service manual:

Clutch Pressure Plate Adjustment

Place clutch cover on a flat surface with clutch plate fingers facing up. Using two screwdrivers, push counter-clockwise on two adjuster ring tabs to prevent the adjuster ring tabs from suddenly moving forward. At the same time, using a press, depress the clutch plate fingers until the adjuster ring tabs begin to move freely.
Compress the springs by pushing the adjuster ring tabs counter-clockwise. The clutch is fully adjusted when the compressed spring length is between 15 mm - 20 mm (0.59 in - 0.79 in).

[uccoskun]

Thank you two for quick reply.

Tomorrow, I will remove the clutch and compress it again. I think the length is almost 20 mm but I will compress the spring all the way in.

I will stick with the brute flywheel as I get rid of the original flywheel weeks ago after the first installation.

Thank you again.

[uccoskun]

Hello, I reset the pressure plate and install the clutch. I mounted the transmission but have not torqued them yet. I will torque the bolts when rains stops.

I took a picture of the pressure plate after resetting. Some of the fingers are shy of the hard stop but I cannot push them any closer since the rest of them (red circled ones in the picture) are almost touching the limits.

I will order master cylinder/slave cylinder shortly.

Thank you.

before and after pictures:

[OldNuc]

The hydraulics do not survive shipping very well if at all.

[uccoskun]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

The hydraulics do not survive shipping very well if at all.

well,
I think the cylinders have survived the shipment relatively well. With the new cylinder assembly, I can put it into the first gear but it is still difficult. It is not normal and I kinda feel like I abuse the synchronization ring more than I should. I can engage the reverse gear easily as expected. Only first gear is problematic (rest of the gears are easy).

Independently, I think I left something loose in the suspension. I will check it tomorrow.

I do not want to open this car again. If the system adjust soon, I might sell this car.

Thank you all.

[OldNuc]

If it works at all the hydraulics improve with age, likewise the clutch. If you can get into first with the engine running and car stopped then it is fine. Downshifting to 1st serves no real purpose.

[uccoskun]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

If it works at all the hydraulics improve with age, likewise the clutch. If you can get into first with the engine running and car stopped then it is fine. Downshifting to 1st serves no real purpose.

That's really good news. I worry about wearing out the sycronizing ring. I guess i will see what happens. How long will it take to get better? I feel very good now.

Thank you.

[OldNuc]

How long depends on many unknowns.

Exactly what are you using for fluid?

If you disengage the clutch and wait for a 2 count the shift from neutral to 1st should be easier and the blocking ring does not have to slow down or speed up a box of gears as much. Blocking ring wear will be highly dependent on fluid and it is critical to note that transmission was designed for a special fluid --it was not just Dexron-3.

[uccoskun]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

How long depends on many unknowns.

Exactly what are you using for fluid?

If you disengage the clutch and wait for a 2 count the shift from neutral to 1st should be easier and the blocking ring does not have to slow down or speed up a box of gears as much. Blocking ring wear will be highly dependent on fluid and it is critical to note that transmission was designed for a special fluid --it was not just Dexron-3.

I waked up at at 7 am and removed the wheel to check the links. I found that the locking nut on one of the the tie rod ends was loose. I have tightened it and now it feels better. There is still something else though.

The clutch starts to feel better already, i hope it is not temporary. I used walmart's supertech dextron3 mercon brand fluid(it was only available brand at walmart). should I replace it with something else.

[OldNuc]

Run it for awhile and see how it goes. The dex/merc universal fluid is too thin actually and the Dex-6 is even thinner so the fix gets rather expensive if required. The thicker fluids will increase the hydraulic coupling between the gears which eases the shifting. Clutch must be functioning properly for anything else to be effective. There really is not much in the trans to "wear out" that fouls up shifting.