half shaft engagement, axle shaft seals, and other aggrevations

[IamHomer]

Being fairly new to Saturns, I decided to tackle a clutch job. New clutch is in; so far, so good. After inserting the driver axle shaft and connecting the ball joint, I tested for leaks and the fluid was pouring out of the seal. So I'm thinking, maybe I damaged the seal or its probably a good idea to replace it anyway. Well...after MANY hours of extreme aggrevation trying homemade tools to pound the new seal in, I finally got it seated with the help of the harbor freight seal /bearing driver kit. The seal looks to be in good shape, so I carefully re-insert the half shaft, then once again test for leaks. Once AGAIN, the fluid is pouring out; ARRRGGGGHH@#&%*! My gut feeling is that the shaft is not fully seated or in far enough. I've tried, but it doesn't seem to be going in any further. Could the tranny be in a gear position that's preventing it from fully seating? Has anyone else experienced this?

[Rivernut]

I did both of my Sl2's shafts a little while ago. They can be in but not seated all of the way in. Hold them as straight as you can and tap them in with either a soft-blow hammer or small hand sledge and a block of wood to protect the threads. Tap, don't whale them. You will feel and see it seat that extra 1/2" or so. Mine did the same on the driver's side. Mobil1 tranny fluid is to expensive to splash around like that!

[wolfman]

Originally Posted by Rivernut

I did both of my Sl2's shafts a little while ago. They can be in but not seated all of the way in. Hold them as straight as you can and tap them in with either a soft-blow hammer or small hand sledge and a block of wood to protect the threads. Tap, don't whale them. You will feel and see it seat that extra 1/2" or so. Mine did the same on the driver's side. Mobil1 tranny fluid is to expensive to splash around like that!

Hard to describe on the internet, but you will feel a "click" when the shaft full seats, and it will have resistance if you try to pull it back out. (It should NOT slide easily back out!) There is a retaining ring that need to seat in a groove (you can see what I mean if you look at the halfshaft where it inserts into the transaxle)

[IamHomer]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll give it a "whack" and post the results.

[OldNuc]

Do not tap or drive on the threads of the shaft. To seat the shaft take a piece of wood and place it in the grove behind the boot clamp and hit that with your hammer. Turn 180 and repeat. It will pop in and stay. If you hammer on the end of it you run the real risk of ruining the CV joints. The wood and hammer will work. The left one is much more difficult than the right.

[rc1488]

Rotate the other axle a tad. Your splines are not lining up. Also get an assistant to jiggle the other axle. It will pop right in. Should be able to fit your pinky between the axle and tranny case and thats it

[OldNuc]

Ah, yes, the calibrated finger to see if its in yet.

[rc1488]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Ah, yes, the calibrated finger to see if its in yet.

haha yess. I would give an exact number but its freezing out and I dont want to go up to the shop, put the car on the lift, and then take a measurement. Sorrry OP

[OldNuc]

Same tool I use. Seldom loose it under the car.

[Canyon]

There is a snap ring on the end of the shaft. You need to get the snap ring to seat. You can feel it when it seats. The way to know that it is seated is to pull gently on the hub of the shaft closest to the transmission once you think it is seated. If it is not seated it will come out easily. If it is seated the snap ring will keep it from coming out.

I find that putting a little grease on the end of the shaft and over the snap ring makes it go in easier. Also if you grab it with both hands and get a short head start (like a half inch) it is easier to get it to seat. If all that fails, get a dowel, place it on the edge of the inner hub and tap on the end of the dowel with a hammer. DO NOT hammer or push on the end of the shaft that inserts into the wheel bearing. You run the risk of popping it and ruining the shaft.

Also, check to make sure the spines of the shaft are not damaged. More than once I have had to take a small file and clean the splines to get them to seat. On a reman shaft this is particularly important as some people don't care about the part they are returning.

If after all that you are not able to get it to seat, you can take the snap ring off the old shaft and put i on the new shaft. I had one that the snap ring was expanded too much and swapping it for the one on my shaft worked. When you do this do not expand the snap ring as this will make it hard to get it seated.

Another way to find out if it is aligned is to reinsert the old shaft. That way you will know if the shaft is the problem or the way you are doing it is the problem. After all, that shaft came out and it is not like it matters if you damage it When I do this, once I take out the old shaft I never rotate the wheels. The old shaft came out in that orientation, the new shaft should be aligned correctly. I am not sure it makes any difference though. Possibly someone else will chime in.

In case you have not guessed it, I've done a bunch of these. And yes, I learned not to bang on the end of them the hard way. If you want to experience failure for yourself, put the old shaft in and bang on it. What the heck, you're returning it anyway