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Old 05-31-2016, 06:23 PM   #1
Chelden
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default 2006 Vue with v-6 engine A/C blows hot air

I bought a 2006 Vue with v-6 engine that was stored in Bend, OR for 18 months ( 2 winters). I brought it to my home in California. It has a few problems that I need to work on but the main one for now is the A/C. The A/C does not cool the air. The current temperature is 97 degrees. It appears that the compressor clutch engages when the A/C button is pressed and the fan is running. I have located and checked the clutch relay and fuse, as expected they check ok. Where can I find the pressure switch and temperature switch? From what I understand, both of these should be ok in order for the clutch to engage but I want to check them anyway. Since I don't have the tools to recharge the system, I will have to have it done but I want to have some system information before taking it in.
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Old 05-31-2016, 06:34 PM   #2
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Default Re: 2006 Vue with v-6 engine A/C blows hot air

I don't know if this is related( you have the homework assignement) but the scroll valve in the compressor is a trouble spot , so,,, study hard, tehre's a quiz
https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=partne...%20valve%20vue
...
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Old 05-31-2016, 07:17 PM   #3
Chelden
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2006 VUE 3.5L
Default Re: 2006 Vue with v-6 engine A/C blows hot air

Thanks for the suggestion. After reading the posts, as I understand, a faulty scroll control valve only affects the A/C at low or idle rpms. I have no A/C at any speed. The interesting thing is that the A/C was working fine before put into storage. I believe the previous owner and his maintenance records show any problems would have been fixed.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:00 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2006 Vue with v-6 engine A/C blows hot air

Chelden, the only way to separate scroll valve from typical leak problems is with a set of gauges. Vues using scroll compressors are afflicted with an additional part failure besides the leak few want to address. Since your compressor runs, there's refrigerant but no one can tell you how much except with gauges. The pressure and temperature switch can be presumed in good operating condition and not really an issue. One way to determine a/c cooling is listening for compressor disengagement (cycling on and off when it shouldn't) would be adjusting the temperature control from hot to cold on a fully warmed engine, waiting to feel heat first then adjusting to full cold. With no cooling at idle rpm, repeating again while driving at moderate speed (the higher the speed the better to test for scroll valve issues). If cooler air flows and stays cold until returning to stop and go traffic, this would be a strong indication of a scroll valve problem. Listen, if possible, for compressor disengagement while driving or observe slight lurching as the compressor disengages with tach changes at idle. If cooling doesn't occur at speed, this is more about loss of refrigerant (while still having a possibility of scroll valve failure, two issues).

Rather than reach for a refill kit and waste money, I suggest investing in an inexpensive uv blacklight to find the elusive leak that may be impossible for most to find unless a uv light is used. Dye was installed at factory assembly and mixes with oil, circulating thru the entire system. Once a leak occurs, gas, oil and dye leak out with oil and dye marking the leak site. Refrigerant evaporates and disappears. A good example of dye (greenish yellow glow and brighter under uv light) is the high pressure discharge port near the condenser coils, closer to the compressor. Service valves are sealed with caps but slight leaking is inevitable so oil and dye can be seen inside these ports when caps are removed. Dye may be seen and will glow under uv light. A leak anywhere in the system will glow in a dark garage or in the evening after sunset.

After reading threads about scroll valve failures, you may see a symptom associated with it - little to no cold air in local traffic but normal cooling at speed. Loss of refrigerant lowers cooling at all speeds. Refrigeration gauges are the tools of choice to determine where fault lies.

Scroll valve failure means a simple replacement without replacing the compressor but the system will have to be evacuated of remaining refrigerant prior to opening the rear of the compressor to replace the scroll valve, spring and O-ring. If a system is leaking, finding the source of the leak can be done without any refilling needed. It would be foolish to presume the scroll valve is the easier repair and if a leak isn't addressed then a repair may result in fresh refrigerant leaking out the same place. Finding the elusive leak and addressing what's broken to replace parts should be a priority and then determining whether or not to go ahead and replace the scv at the same time to make an effective repair. All without paying anyone for diagnostics and with an investment in a uv blacklight. No repair shop will ever suggest this 'short cut' because they're counting on the public's general ignorance of how refrigeration works and why dye was GM's (possibly others too) method to simply add dye into the system to allow dealers (and anyone that knows abut dye) to use a uv light.

If this helps, I found my first leak on the first try while parked at Home Depot in the evening with a uv light and little effort. My a/c lasted 10 years until NYC roads rattled mine apart. My pictures show the damage. In my garage I found the rest of the leaks.
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