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#1 |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 4
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Already started this yesterday.
I had one heck of a time taking of the engine without the trans. Based on the difficulty of it I'm unsure if I can put back the unit as is. I may have to take off the trans and mate it before dropping. So I'm curious if you guys did something specific to freeup space/leverage to remove the engine without the trans. Or is it mandatory to remove both for engine swap? Btw to gain clearance I removed the crank pulley. But the trans/cv remain intact. Lmk if you have pointers or if trans has to go out aswell. And if it does it the cv a snap on? I mean push/pull snap onto the trans? Thanks |
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#2 |
Super Member
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With a manual trans it is easier to pull the engine with the trans. Certainly easier to get it all back in with the engine and trans together.
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#3 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
1997 SW2
1999 SL2
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i pulled the engine on a 5 spd by taking off the harmonic ballancer pully taking the bolts out of the bottom trans mount, the top engine mount (duh), bottom engine mount bracket. then all the other steps coming up to seperation. with the engine held by a cherry picker, turn the engine alittle, brace the trans with jack stand, take out the 4 engine to trans bolts and seperate. you will want the engine to slant back alittle as you pull it. i know it sounds complicated, but if you can pull one from an auto, then you can do this one too. P.S. i used this procedure on my auto to man swap.
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#4 | |
New Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 4
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Uh I pulled it out already. I was asking about putting it back cuz I had a hard time taking it out so I don't know if Ill have room to match the clutch with the input shaft and put it in too. I guess I'm taking off the trans. Does the cv just snaps onto the trans? |
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#5 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
1997 SW2
1999 SL2
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it works backward, drop in the clutch side droped down a bit. you will probally have to turn the flywheel alittle to line up the slpines.
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#6 |
Member
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Yep, I did it that way. When you put it back in, tilt the clutch side down, and make sure you remove the upper engine mount, I had a heck of a time putting the engine back in with the thing still on the frame. It has a couple of screws in the wheel well. Kept struggling for just a few mm of clearance
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