Deebs build questions

[scw2]

I wanna do this but when i search for the build i find several different things saying to use different parts. Here is what i have so far for parts to use:

3rd gen block, pistons, rods (was a single cam engine but shouldnt matter?)

98 dohc head, crank

#1 question i have before i get into this is do i have to shave the 3rd gen pistons down for clearance or will it stay in the cylinder with the second gen crank?

#2 is there something in the second gen head that needs to be removed to prevent oil starvation

#3 what head gasket and head studs do i use or are they all the same?

Thanks in advance

[fetchitfido]

Depending on goal & skills there's different parts to use.

3rd gen pistons with 2nd gen rods = shave pistons. Can get higher compression this way than any other way.
3rd gen pistons with 3rd gen rods = no mods

All question's answered: http://sixthsphere.com/showthread.ph...sistancy-check

If you have the head shaved, you need the timing cover shaved the same amount otherwise the valve cover won't seal as well, if at all.

[scw2]

Ok idk if i missed it or what but how do you know how much to shave the pistons down

[fetchitfido]

I've not seen an exact number posted but the piston height should be a spec that's findable, get that for both style pistons and subtract the shorter from the taller to find what the exact difference is. Take 2/3 of that number (1/3 shorter) and shave the piston down that much to start with. Probably more trouble than it's worth unless you or a buddy own/work in a machine shop.

[scw2]

Ya it might just make more sence for me to shave the head and use ffv.

[SC2Sick]

IMO - if you have to purchase the parts it's not worth the hassle.. go through Gude and get high compression pistons and matched rods for $400 balanced, gapped, and ready to drop in.

If you had the stuff laying around then by all means, frankenstein away.

99+ SOHC pistons/rods should be the same, but you will miss out on the tie plate.. you should at least use the DOHC windage tray from some donor if you can find one.

I've mixed and matched cranks.. the only thing of concern is making sure you have the correct timing chain sprocket for the crank.

[OldNuc]

Originally Posted by scw2

Ya it might just make more sence for me to shave the head and use ffv.

Milling head or block retards the timing. You can end up with a net loss if not extremely careful.

The purpose of the rod/piston swap is to make flat top pistons. This requires a complete engine rebalance for best results.

Using the 00-02 crank will decrease the available max acceleration rate and increases the lower end stresses requiring the 00-02 reinforced lower end support parts to prevent main bearing deflection.

Fuel that will perform adequately in a higher compression engine with a stock PCM will be difficult to impossible to find. This pushes you into a MegaSquirt and/or DIY fuel blending with additives that are priced at $20.0/gallon or so.

[hinsonracing]

Okay guys I need some serious brass tacks and hard facts. I'm in no way new to working on cars and engines (Master ASE certified for 12 years), however, I am new when it comes to modifying from stock. I dirt track race my saturns and have built my own engines. So far I have racked up some wins and championships, but competition is getting tougher to keep up with and out run. I have had luck with just stock bores and simple dual intake swaps with a lightweight flywheel. I want to dig a little deeper and here is where I need some help/advice. I want to degree my engine in a little better because I have roughly .060" shaved between the head and block. I already know that the precise timing has been changed do to the machine work but I am having trouble with the figures I've measured trying to degree (please NOTE math is not my forte) Here is what I have measured.

I apologize if my TDC, ATDC, Acronyms aren't right. I am used to just assembling with factory marks.

Intake @ .050"
Opens at 10 degrees ATDC
Closes at 26 degrees ABDC

By what I have learned reading on the subject her is my equation for the intake.

10 + 226 = 236
235÷2 = 118
118 - 107.25 (centerline) = 10.75 degrees retarded?

Being I have dual intake camshafts I dont have a real solution for the equation but here is my measurements.

Exhaust @ .050"
Opens at 50 degrees ABDC
Closes at 168 After ABDC

Any and all actual help not opinions would be greatly appreciated.

[OldNuc]

OBX makes adjustable camshaft sprockets that can be use to fix the retard. On the 98 and older head each link is 9.47 degrees and that might just fix it, or get you close enough.

[hinsonracing]

I understand and know about what will need to be done to correct the timing. The information I'm trying to get is information on degreeing for a twin intake camshafts setup. I'm not sure if my figures are right or not.