2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Timing Belt Kit + Camshaft + Crankshaft Seals

[fdryer]

Originally Posted by BrandonKastning

........ I really met my match with this one.~ Brandon

No one knows everything so you're not alone. Each person learns their limits sooner or later, hopefully without injury to anyone, damage to something or personal psyche.

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer,

Touche!

~ Brandon

Originally Posted by fdryer

No one knows everything so you're not alone. Each person learns their limits sooner or later, hopefully without injury to anyone, damage to something or personal psyche.

[BrandonKastning]

Alright everyone!

I am finished! Time to find out the results!

Thank you especially to the following:

fdryer
02 LW300
Rj 2000 LS2
floridasl22002
pierrot
ernesto rex
Bill Murray
lrbraner
Dsaturn

and all those who I didn't include!

P.S. - I believe it's going to blow up on me and that the valve's are bent from cams #1 & #2 slamming down when I screwed up.

P.S.S - The "tracking issue" very well could be my clinical O.C.D.; regardless of parts, sprocket swaps, timing belts, tensioners, idlers and re-installs; the results have been the same. This is the final setting that I used.

~ I have filled up the radiator to the line with 50/50 Dexcool Orange

~ I have filled up 5W-30 Oil (5 Qts.)

~ I have made certain the 15 Amp fuse is installed for the Fuel Pump

~ I have a fully charged Starter Battery readied

~ I just have to connect the battery cables and turn it over!

~ Any last minutes before I key over and blow me up?

Gallery A:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery B:

[BrandonKastning]

Gallery C:

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Well, don't forget to record a video of the startup and first ride. If anything goes wrong it will be useful to have many eyes and ears on it! Good Luck!

Ps, I have never seen such a clean engine!

[Rj 2000 LS2]

FYI Your engine has sat without running for months. You should disable to fuel injectors and spin the engine with the starter to get oil pumping again before you actually try to start it.

[Rj 2000 LS2]

767 Posts in this thread... Well, does it Varoom or Clunk!

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Come On Man! Are you rolling down the road like a gangster or did you call the junk yard! Certainly, you can get on ebay and sell some parts to recoup your losses!

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Over 750 posts on this thread. No resolution, No Results, No Conclusion...

[BrandonKastning]

Okay; today is the big day. I have tabs on her and ready to go get some gas.

Passlock came on; I forgot (is it 15 minutes on key over) or is it (15 minutes total w/ 5 minute increment key turns) to disable this?

[BrandonKastning]

Alright; passlock security is stuck on like last time *Please disregard my question*.

The answer to the thread; timing belt kit installed and the engine runs without clanking.

Thank you everyone for your help and patience with an angry disabled man.

I will accompany this with a video of the first run later today.

Best Regards,

Brandon Kastning
~ TruthSword

Victory for Saturnfans.com & myself.

[fdryer]

[BrandonKastning]

fdryer 100%



Here is the YouTube Video!

https://youtu.be/RtW_Yi44T-4

Originally Posted by fdryer

[fdryer]

1- Passlock security remaining on means it's disabled. It is not providing anti theft protection (blinking once every few seconds when remote is used to Lock all doors, simultaneously enabling Passlock security.

Passlock detected an error during self tests and instead of interfering with everyday driving, programming determines its better to disable itself and allow driving but without an anti theft system. Troubleshooting requires reviewing Passlock wiring, sensors on the ignition lock cylinder and wiring between sensors and bcm.

2- Starting up failure may be due to fuel draining back to the tank from opened fuel lines. Priming, self pumping at ignition on time with or without starting, should have purged and pressurized the fuel line to injectors. The second startup did result in a partial engine startup with the third try being successful. The main fuel lines and injector rails are pressurized and purged of air. All subsequent startups should occur on each first start.

3- Lifters seem noisy but that may be due to oil draining out the cavities of each hydraulic tappet valve that needs refilling as the engine oil pump continues to run and lube the engine. The tappet valves should fill with oil with the engine quieting down soon.

4- Your choice to leave the coolant cap off during initial warm-up or simply to off coolant to the cold level mark, cap on and drive. A brief drive to warm up the engine will automatically purge any air resulting in the hot coolant level being lower to indicate topping off needed.

I've found that my engine will not explode with hot coolant blowing out when loosening the cap slowly to release pressure. A large rag should be used when loosening the coolant cap just in case of hot coolant blowing out and scalding hands, arms, face, etc. A warm-up while parked with coolant cap off should purge the system of air almost immediately without having to idle a long time. The coolant level should bubble up immediately as air is purged out and into the coolant container. Just top off and monitor levels the next few drives.

[BrandonKastning]

Thank you fdryer for your feedback on the first run since complete of repairs.

Originally Posted by fdryer

1- Passlock security remaining on means it's disabled. It is not providing anti theft protection (blinking once every few seconds when remote is used to Lock all doors, simultaneously enabling Passlock security.

Passlock detected an error during self tests and instead of interfering with everyday driving, programming determines its better to disable itself and allow driving but without an anti theft system. Troubleshooting requires reviewing Passlock wiring, sensors on the ignition lock cylinder and wiring between sensors and bcm.

2- Starting up failure may be due to fuel draining back to the tank from opened fuel lines. Priming, self pumping at ignition on time with or without starting, should have purged and pressurized the fuel line to injectors. The second startup did result in a partial engine startup with the third try being successful. The main fuel lines and injector rails are pressurized and purged of air. All subsequent startups should occur on each first start.

3- Lifters seem noisy but that may be due to oil draining out the cavities of each hydraulic tappet valve that needs refilling as the engine oil pump continues to run and lube the engine. The tappet valves should fill with oil with the engine quieting down soon.

4- Your choice to leave the coolant cap off during initial warm-up or simply to off coolant to the cold level mark, cap on and drive. A brief drive to warm up the engine will automatically purge any air resulting in the hot coolant level being lower to indicate topping off needed.

I've found that my engine will not explode with hot coolant blowing out when loosening the cap slowly to release pressure. A large rag should be used when loosening the coolant cap just in case of hot coolant blowing out and scalding hands, arms, face, etc. A warm-up while parked with coolant cap off should purge the system of air almost immediately without having to idle a long time. The coolant level should bubble up immediately as air is purged out and into the coolant container. Just top off and monitor levels the next few drives.

[ernesto rex]

Achievement Unlocked.

I hope that the fix for clearing the service wrench isn't too awful.

Since we are among friends here I have to admit that after every major automotive project (and after checking and rechecking things) I still offer a small prayer to the automotive gods before cranking it over.

Worked so far

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Indeed! Any major repair that runs is a success!