Front broke lug nut stud- Do not do's...

[tacinc1]

I broke a front wheel lug nut stud trying to remove the tire and could not
get the stud all the way out at any of the 360 degree positions. So, I
removed the axle nut and tried to tilt the hub for clearance to no avail.
Crap. I removed the brake caliper and realized that now I could remove
the broke stud and replaced it. So, just remove the caliper. Reminds me
of the saying, "Don't die stupid."

[Ghill_Sl1]

Glad to read that you were able to get the job done even if you ended up doing all that extra work.

I am currently stressing as I have tried to replace my lug stud a few times but have not been successful. For me removing the brake caliper and the rotor on my sl1 does not give me any clearance to insert a luge stud. Is this all you are supposed to have to do because to me it seems as if you need to remove everything but the axle in order to get clearance?

I am quite frustrated and would love some input if you have had success.

Thanks!

[Low Saturn]

I've never had to remove the caliper to remove the studs. In fact we put longer studs on our old drag car and didnt have to remove the calipers.

[ShawnV]

I've always had to remove the brake caliper to get a broken stud out.

Try tapping the new one in with a small ball peen hammer. I've found that they don't just drop in, but will go in with a little help.

[2NDSOUT]

I've had to replace wheel studs on my 94 SL2.

This is how I did mine:

Remove the Brakes, Calipers, and Caliper Bridge

Use a Pipe Wrench or Heavy Duty C-Clamp to secure the wheel hub.

Using a Cold Chisel, tap out the broken wheel studs.

With the Wheel Hub in the C-Clamp, position your first open hole for the new stud at the 1 o'clock position. Gently thread the new wheel stud into place. When it clears the wheel hub and the hub secured with Pipe Wrench/C-Clamp take a Lug Nut to pull the rest of the new wheel stud thru the wheel hub until it is firmly in place/position. Then undo the Lugnut and move onto the next wheel stud replacement, then put all of the brake hardware back in place and position the wheel and attach lugnuts.

Done.


New Wheel studs are $3-$4/piece at your local FLAPS.

[Dr. Sprock]

or you could chuck up a 3/16 th's drill bit,

go thru most of the way,

chuck up a 3/8 in a milwaukee 1/2 inch jacobs super chuck and you are gone in 60 seconds with the cheap azz steel they use, a little 3o wt on the drill bit so you don't bind,

if you are a Fabricator A, you know how to correct for drill drift,

everybody pushes up and left,

don't forget to vacuum the chips off the living room carpet,

[Dr. Sprock]

double post - mod delete

[93wsaturn]

Originally Posted by 2NDSOUT

I've had to replace wheel studs on my 94 SL2.

This is how I did mine:

Remove the Brakes, Calipers, and Caliper Bridge

Use a Pipe Wrench or Heavy Duty C-Clamp to secure the wheel hub.

Using a Cold Chisel, tap out the broken wheel studs.

With the Wheel Hub in the C-Clamp, position your first open hole for the new stud at the 1 o'clock position. Gently thread the new wheel stud into place. When it clears the wheel hub and the hub secured with Pipe Wrench/C-Clamp take a Lug Nut to pull the rest of the new wheel stud thru the wheel hub until it is firmly in place/position. Then undo the Lugnut and move onto the next wheel stud replacement, then put all of the brake hardware back in place and position the wheel and attach lugnuts.

Done.


New Wheel studs are $3-$4/piece at your local FLAPS.

I just have one quick question about this. It seems that your method of how to install a stud sounds much easier than disassembling the whole steering knuckle. I tried looking at pictures of stock S-Series knuckles and it appears your method will work. My Saturn is a 1993 model year which is only one year previous to yours so I'm assuming the same knuckle was used. I rather install a stud using your method than removing the knuckle. Can you personally guarantee that doing it your way at the 1 o'clock position will allow the stud to slide in rather than removing the hub?

[OldNuc]

The knuckle is the same 91-02 the only difference is the number of and diameter of the splined axle hole in the hub. The method you copied works on all years.

[underthehood]

Geez just get a good hammer, pound the old one out, use an old lug nut and impact to "pull" the new one in and seat it. Done. It takes longer to jack the car off the ground than do the job

[billr]

I'll give a contrary opinion... any method that involves a big hammer isn't good for bearings. You may get away with it, but don't be surprised if that bearing goes bad prematurely.

[OldNuc]

+1^^^^You get your choice of stuffed bears on the back top row for the right answer. Do not beat on the hub you will hurt the balls. The broken stud can be forced out and the new one drawn in without hammer action.

[colonelhogan44]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAg1r6zw7Bg

[underthehood]

Originally Posted by billr

I'll give a contrary opinion... any method that involves a big hammer isn't good for bearings. You may get away with it, but don't be surprised if that bearing goes bad prematurely.

Haven't hurt anything yet. 40+ years. In theory maybe correct but, if the hub is good you won't hurt it. And if it's marginal even then only "maybe"