2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Won't stay running after a breakdown and bad...

[BrandonKastning]

Series 3/7:

This seems to be the culprit - Drenched alternator.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 4/7:

This seems to be the culprit - Drenched alternator.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 5/7:

This seems to be the culprit - Drenched alternator.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 6/7:

This seems to be the culprit - Drenched alternator.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 7/7:

This seems to be the culprit - Drenched alternator.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 8:

More Pics that seem to have to do with this oil leak.

[BrandonKastning]

Series 9:

More Pics that seem to have to do with this oil leak.

[BrandonKastning]

I ordered an alternator on amazon. It's all I can afford this month. I have just enough left over for the pulley's if I did the correct calculations. My thinking is that if I can get this alternator off the car and a new one on to get it running. I can drive it to a car wash a town over and pressure wash the engine block with engine degreaser.

I have zero friends and nobody to help me.

[BrandonKastning]

Rj,

Regarding the intake hoses... I took these pics.

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Slow down. You haven't taken my advice and you are merely finding more culprits which are simply related to the problem. All the oil leaks are due to the crankcase pressure which is not being vented properly by the PCV system. My alternator, exhaust manifolds and other parts are soaked too. Stay on focus if you want get this vehicle fixed.

Plus, the large ribbed plastic intake tube appears to be "On" the top of the intake, but it looks like the underside it not connected. This can cause a vacuum leak. Many oil change shops will take this large tube off and inspect the air cleaner. Then when they put it back on they fail to connect the underside.

Why did you buy an alternator? Where and how did you decide it was the problem? An oily alternator might run warm, but oil not even water can harm an alternator from working properly. Did you measure the voltage output at an idle? Was it lower than 10.3 volts? If not, you just wasted your money.

If you want our help, you should only do the tests we give you and stop going off focus and wasting money on more parts that are not bad. Let's say you replace the alternator... then what? Is the oil magically going to stop dipping out of the valve cover gasket drenching the new alternator? Why are you continuing to shot gun and not listen to our recommendations?

[BrandonKastning]

Rj,

I am doing my best here sir. I haven't even tested the alternator. I figured that regardless it needs a new one if I am to find the vacuum leak.

I do not know the terminology of lots of things regarding the car advise.

This pic: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/att...7&d=1580594763

The "Air Flow" sensor. I replaced this in 2017 when I first got the car. So if the cink in it is causing problems; It's probably my fault.

To be honest; I am terribly confused. My thinking was to weld sheet metal above the alternator to prevent leakage onto the new one. However I have a feeling it's another stupid idea.

The circled hoses on this picture you sent me : http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/att...3&d=1580490990

This looks a lot different than mine here : http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/att...7&d=1580594763

As far as "testing" the alternator; don't know how to test it since I am only 1 person.

The picture I just uploaded: Is this where I need to remove that hose and place the duct tape and twist tie it off?

I will have to ask my neighbor for a jump after I do this if I am understanding correctly.

Again, I do appreciate it. I am OCD and am extremely compulsive. This car is driving me insane.

[BrandonKastning]

Rj,

So working on hyper focusing on what we are trying to achieve here. Removing that hose and putting duct tape; is basically bypassing the other sensors to do a rule out ?

And if it works... then the car should idle.

I should have my pliers tomorrow if amazon brings them and I can get that test done.



- Brandon

[Rj 2000 LS2]

The two pics of my engine and your engine are the same. I just removed my air cleaner box and the large intake hose. The two hoses are what you need to remove. It's the inlets of where those hoses connect is where you need to plug completely. The hoses don't necessarily need to be plugged, but you can tape them also. Be sure to have the air box and everything else still connected. What we are trying to test is if outside air is getting into the intake via a large vacuum leak. With both these inlets plugged, we are ruling out vacuum leaks in these hoses where they connect to the other side of the engine where they are inaccessible unless you take off pieces of the intake.

You say you are a computer nerd. Do you have a volt meter? If so, measure the voltage across the battery while the car is running. If the voltage is above 13 volts, the alternator is working.

Hey, if nothing else... you will have many brand new parts to sell on ebay! LOL

[BrandonKastning]

Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2

The two pics of my engine and your engine are the same. I just removed my air cleaner box and the large intake hose. The two hoses are what you need to remove. It's the inlets of where those hoses connect is where you need to plug completely. The hoses don't necessarily need to be plugged, but you can tape them also. Be sure to have the air box and everything else still connected. What we are trying to test is if outside air is getting into the intake via a large vacuum leak. With both these inlets plugged, we are ruling out vacuum leaks in these hoses where they connect to the other side of the engine where they are inaccessible unless you take off pieces of the intake.

You say you are a computer nerd. Do you have a volt meter? If so, measure the voltage across the battery while the car is running. If the voltage is above 13 volts, the alternator is working.

Hey, if nothing else... you will have many brand new parts to sell on ebay! LOL

Rj,

Thank you. I got confused again. Do I need to take all 3 hoses off? One on each side and the middle piece while keeping the (toward the camera) air filter attached? Or do I just need to remove the middle one as seen in your picture and the one that I circled?

And yes; I guess I would have extra parts!

Thanks a bunch! Looking forward to things. I tested getting the car on jack stands yesterday for the first time. I am feeling pretty proud of myself about this.

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Only remove the two I circled. Everything else needs to be connected.

[BrandonKastning]

Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2

Only remove the two I circled. Everything else needs to be connected.

Rj,

10-4

[BrandonKastning]

Update #1
02/12/2020

Reminder: My L300 stopped working less than 2 blocks before having to call the tow truck and bring it home to start analyzing it and repairing various things with help from fdryer, rj, etc.

"Lookey lookey I found Hookey"

Somehow the water pump plug was damaged and completely unplugged.

Since I discovered this; it has been electrical taped and placed back in securely.

The question I have is; since the Tow back and running it for a minute or so before it seizing without idle ability. It emitted a ton of smoke.

Would this be more likely to be caused form the heater core burning up since I was running it regardless of it normally wanting to seize due to no water pump?

And the other question I am wondering; are there other components that would stand out in any professionals mind with this information?

Also; I have done significant maintenance on this L300 since my last post. Due to the amount of oil leak; could the L300 run without a water pump in a parked position like I did; not damage any components other than the heater core and burn engine oil off before I released the pedal and the engine seized? Provided my guess of the heater core burning out as a result of the smoke fest in the video shown above.

[BrandonKastning]

Update #2
02/12/2020


Rj,

Regarding the hoses on each side of the engine valve area (not certain what it's called yet).

I seen that my hose was damaged on the right hand side. I happened to have 100% Weather proof sealant caulking and I patched it up the best I could without replacing the hose. I also noted a puddle of oil in the middle section (not pictured).

Also the Mass Air Flow Sensor (That I replaced in 2017; I did a bad job doing so and bent the plastic on each side of the sensor; resulting in bended plastic; not completing a perfect circle for proper air flow).

If I am understanding what I wrote correctly; you were dead on with the vacuum leak and really know your engines. I appreciate that greatly.

I have attached some pictures.

Best Regards,

Brandon

[BrandonKastning]

Update #3
02/12/2020

Pictures of the Alternator + Tensioner + other Engine Pulley's and it's incredible engine baked/caked situation.

[BrandonKastning]

Update #4
02/12/2020

I used Gunk engine degreaser foam and original with Dollar Store toilet bowl cleaners to do a semi-descent job at cleaning as much as possible before being able to get a pressure washer with engine degreaser on this block.

I then installed the New Alternator + Tensioner Pulley

These are the results so far.