Issue with car running, please help!

[MakeMeFamous]

I have a 1998 SL1, and am having issues with it. I was driving one day and it just died. Had it towed home to try and work on it. When trying to start the car, it would turn over, but not start; almost like if it was out of gas, but it wasn't. sometimes it would start for 1/2 a second, but sound like it was just running on fumes. The fuel pump fuse would keep blowing and all the electronics were correct (checked with multimeter), so I assumed the pump was bad. Got a new one and replaced it with some effort. It helped, but didn't fix the issue. The car starts now, and runs alright at first. But after it warms up, it sounds like the engine isn't getting enough gas and starts to shake at idle. I replaced the fuel filter today and have the same result. My dad and I are all out of ideas, so we are completely lost lol. From what all I've read on the internet and the Haynes manual, it could be a few things. We think it could be a bad O2 sensor, a fault within the fuel injection system itself, or something to do with the pressure in the fuel lines. But like I said, we honestly have no idea what to try next, so any help is greatly appreciated .

[SL19302]

I would replace your Engine coolant temp sensor and inspect its connector for coolant contamination.

[MakeMeFamous]

Just looked at the connector and it looks clean. What effect would this have on the amount of fuel/air the engine needs though? Just curious because I've read on some more stuff and it could also be the EGR valve or the injectors themselves. Thanks

[SL19302]

Originally Posted by MakeMeFamous

Just looked at the connector and it looks clean. What effect would this have on the amount of fuel/air the engine needs though? Just curious because I've read on some more stuff and it could also be the EGR valve or the injectors themselves. Thanks

A Failed Coolant Temp sensor will drown the engine with gas and flood it out, The PCM looks at this reading and determines how much fuel the engine needs to run, A colder engine needs more fuel, A warmer engine needs less, If the sensor failed and is telling the computer the engine is -40 degrees like ive seen a few times and its summer time the engine wont run, Removing the Temp sensor and seeing if the tip is cracked will give you a good indicator if it failed, Another way to check that sensor is if you have a scan tool that reads live data, Pull up the coolant temp and see what it says for a reading.

[MakeMeFamous]

If that were the issue, wouldn't the temp gauge be off? It takes 10 or so minutes to reach the 1/4 line. But it does sound like it could be the issue, gonna have to bum a ride to AutoZone again tomorrow lol. It's just kind of funny that the pump and this go bad at the exact same time, unless you think one could cause the other lol. Maybe the sensor made the pump work too hard or something lol. Thanks again, hopefully this fixes it xD

[SL19302]

The only way to get an accurate temp reading is with a scan tool showing live data, Temps at the 1/4 mark when the engines hot usually indicate a bad Coolant Temp sensor, Worn out Thermostat or Both.

[sistahazel]

I'm not sure about your model car but I have a 92 SL1 and I had the same symptoms wound up being the ICM

[MakeMeFamous]

Just put in a new coolant temp sensor, and nothing changed. It still acts the same. It took about 8 or so tries to get it to start. It seemed to run fine for a bit, but after warming up (temp gauge reached 1/4) it started to choke up and shake the car. At this point, when first pressing the accelerator, it started to kill the engine, but after letting off a little bit it would start to rev up. Any other ideas? Hopefully it's not the ICM lol.

[SL19302]

Do you happen to have a Service engine soon light?

[MakeMeFamous]

Yup, we tried using a paperclip to get the code/codes, but i guess on some 16-pins you have to have a reader. Wouldn't be an issue if we could get the car somewhere to have it done lol.

[SL19302]

The paper clip method only works on OBD1 cars which are 95 and earlier, If you know someone that has a code reader that they can lend you that's the best bet as we need those codes to diagnose any further

[MakeMeFamous]

Don't know anyone with one, and I'm guessing they are pretty expensive lol. Might check around local garages and see if there's a cheap way to get it towed :/

[SL19302]

You probably could buy a cheap basic code reader from you local auto parts store to pull the codes

[MakeMeFamous]

Is this be what I would need?

autozone(DOT)com/autozone/accessories/Innova-OBD-II-CarScan-Code-Reader-for-all-1996-and-newer-European-Asian-domestic-2010-and-newer-diesel-and-hybrid-compliance/_/N-25iq?itemIdentifier=514004_0_0_

[SL19302]

Yes, That will work.

[MakeMeFamous]

How important is it that the scanner is CAN Compliant? I found a cheaper one that's actually in stock that I could get tomorrow lol.

[SL19302]

Originally Posted by MakeMeFamous

How important is it that the scanner is CAN Compliant? I found a cheaper one that's actually in stock that I could get tomorrow lol.

Not important, A basic OBD 2 code reader will work fine for what your trying to do.

[MakeMeFamous]

Scanned it and got the following codes:
P0137
P0341 CNF
P0452
P0341 PND

Got a new O2 sens and spark plugs/wires, so hopefully that will take care of 137 and both 341 codes.

[MakeMeFamous]

Put in the new spark plugs/wires and the O2 sensor (the old was tough to get started lol) then cleared the codes. It took 2 tries to start it and ran fine for a bit, but started acting up like usual. After letting it run for like 15 min, turned it off and scanned for codes again. Got the following:
P0137
P0304

Maybe there's a fuse or something for the O2 sens blown or a split in the wire. And I might have not put the plug wires in all the way, but I'm fairly sure I did. Here's a video of the engine running after warming up if it's any help at all to see/hear it lol.

youtube.com/watch?v=FArkkylah0Y&feature=youtu.be

[SL19302]

Originally Posted by MakeMeFamous

Put in the new spark plugs/wires and the O2 sensor (the old was tough to get started lol) then cleared the codes. It took 2 tries to start it and ran fine for a bit, but started acting up like usual. After letting it run for like 15 min, turned it off and scanned for codes again. Got the following:
P0137
P0304

Maybe there's a fuse or something for the O2 sens blown or a split in the wire. And I might have not put the plug wires in all the way, but I'm fairly sure I did. Here's a video of the engine running after warming up if it's any help at all to see/hear it lol.

youtube.com/watch?v=FArkkylah0Y&feature=youtu.be

You have a HUGE exhaust leak, With a leak like that the Air/Fuel mixture is totally thrown off as the exhaust leak is allowing air to enter the exhaust throwing the O2 sensor to lean therefor the computer is dumping huge amounts of fuel to try and compensate for the leak and is basically drowning the engine in gas, Get that front pipe sealed up, The car will never right right without it being welded and leak tight, The P0137 O2 sensor code is for the Rear O2 sensor after the converter I wouldnt worry about that right now as that sensor doesnt do anything but monitor the converter, The P0304 is a Cylinder 4 Misfire, Get the exhaust sealed up and reset the computer.