Key wouldn't turn for hours/Wheel Locked. (possible key or ignition lock cylinder?)

[Scholzpdx]

My car: 99' Saturn SL1 Sedan SOHC Automatic. 139.5k, bought at 124k last August in Chicago.

I've been having a harder time with both of my daily keys to my 99 Saturn SL1 for months now. My wife said the problem with the keys has become progressively worse. When putting my key in, i have to put it in, pull it most of the way, then push it back in a little and turn for it to move over into acc/drive. My wife over the past couple of days has been telling me the car wouldn't turn on because of this. Yesterday it took her 20+ minutes.

Today she couldn't get the key turn over for an hour. For a couple hours I couldn't get it to work. The wheel was locked and the key wouldn't budge more than a quarter of an inch. After several hundred attempts I came onto saturnfans and read the part where if you jerk the key up and down while trying to turn the key, it will work. Low and behold it did. I drove it 30 miles home and parked it, pulled the key out, put it back in and started it like I have been (prior to this incident) 7 times straight.

I've been pricing on ignition lock cylinders and aftermarket ones are going for $90 in my area. Ebay shows many 98 SL compatible for $16, but the 1999's are more ($65), even through they should be the same.

Other suggestions have been getting new keys cut from the dealer. I'm looking at my daily key, my wifes daily key, and a cut spare that we have (all given from previous owner). EVERY KEY is moderately DIFFERENT around the top and base but all HAVE worked when tried. Is this a sign that getting a new cut key according to the vin is likely the answer?

Thank you very much in advance for the suggestions.

-Scott

(Side note, thank you oh so much for the suggestion on the site that said how to jiggle it properly. We were on a 4 story parking garage that no tow company could get to and no mobile mechanics in the area. I was screwed if it didn't work!)

[fdryer]

Are all three ignition keys worn? Tried some lock lubricant? Prior to turning off the ignition, is the steering wheel returned to front/straight position so the steering wheel lock isn't engaged as this can create doubling the effort to turning the ignition key the next time the car is used? Avoiding engaging the steering column lock except for parking on inclined streets to point the wheels into the curb allows turning the ignition lock cylinder with less effort.

If the ignition lock cylinder is the issue then it may be better to start out with a pair of OEM keys cut from GM using the car's VIN and see. If the new keys won't work then the lock cylinder will need to be replaced.

[jimboman]

My keys consistently wear out from a few a years of use (2001 SW2). What I do is to always keep a few copies of an unworn key. The worn keys are nearly useless, as you've found, but an unworn key starts easily. I haven't tried lock lubricant, but perhaps that would cure the wear issue. At least key copies for these cars are only a couple bucks at Wal-Mart.

[mattwithcats]

First make sure that there is no pressure on the steering wheel anti turn lock. If the steering wheel is pushing against this the lock will not want to rotate.

Graphite in the locks helps, keys do wear out. New keys are cheaper than locks...
Also a shot from a can of compressed air into the lock first before the graphite gets the crud out...

[Woodpecker]

I just went through this. If you get a new key from the VIN at a dealer, and take the lock cylinder out and clean it up, you may be in good shape. That's all it took for me. We originally only had a bad key copy to use, and it was hit and miss. Then I couldn't get the key to turn at all, with either the bad one or the new one from the dealer. Took it apart and cleaned the lock cylinder (used brake clean and compressed air) and the housing, and put it back together. You'll see with the cylinder out the bar that runs lengthwise opposite the slots where the tumblers/pins are. If the key doesn't engage them right, the bar won't drop all the way, and you can't turn the key. When I first saw it, I was about to just file that bar down so I wouldn't get stuck again (and just about any key or object would have been able to turn the cylinder), but a cleanup worked. I too spent HOURS using all 3 keys we have trying not to call a locksmith to do it! It's not hard to get out once you can get the key to turn to ACC.

[Scholzpdx]

Thank you all for the suggestions. On sunday I used a can of canned air inside of the cylinder. A good amount of metal and dust deposits popped out. I went to a GM service center today and received two new VIN-cut keys. All of my spare keys were ridiculously worn down. Both worked pretty good while I was leaving.

I came home and parked the car. I turned it off, pulled the key out and it felt a good amount of resistance getting it out. I tried starting it again and it locked up like it did before with the old key! I jiggled the wheel right and it locked up once again! I was able to get it going after 10 seconds of figiting.

I did two applications of lock-ease and both times it's somewhat difficult to turn the key without a decent amount of figiting. Should I leave a coat of lock-ease in overnight? Should I get the tool to take off the plastic housing and take out of the cylinder for a clean?

What tool do I exactly need to get to the cylinder? A super long 5.5mm... wrench?

Thanks for the suggestions.

[OldNuc]

A 7/32 nut driver for the cover screws, same as 5.5mm but can be found easily. Sockets do not fit, use a real nut driver. You may have to buy a set to get the 7/32 size. There are richpin06a videos on cylinder removal. Once removed flush out all the gummed up graphite and ground up metal with a non lubricating contact cleaner, CRC QD-Electronics Connection cleaner works. Very light dusting of dry graphite or preferably powdered motor mica.

You will have to get that cylinder out and clean up the cylinder and mechanism for this to ever function correctly.

Video info: http://www.youtube.com/results?searc....0.hHpDCkXuSGM

[Woodpecker]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

You will have to get that cylinder out and clean up the cylinder and mechanism for this to ever function correctly.

^^^This. Just got it done. Honestly, mine feels a little sticky from time to time anyways. After doing it all, I saw a post about using a Dremel to grind a "ramp" on the pin, to help it let the cylinder turn, even if all the pins aren't allowing it to fully drop as it's supposed to. The lock would still function, but have an "assist" for a marginally working cylinder. I guess that's better than my idea of grinding it all the way down, and then just about any "universal" key would work. I figured that if anyone wanted this 10 year old Saturn that bad, they'd just break the ignition however they were going to anyway, as no one else would know that any key would work.

[Woodpecker]

Might take a look at the TSB as well...

http://www.justanswer.com/saturn/2g3...on-t-lock.html

[Scholzpdx]

I cant tell you how helpful you guys are. Really it helps a whole lot. Thank you very much.

Was lock-ease a bad idea? It's a liquid graphite solution. I saw it was previously recommended.

[OldNuc]

No, Lock ease will work, just do not lay on very much. When you get into that thing you will find it is full of metal wear particles, graphite goo, and oil residue. The mess is equivalent to heavy clay mud. Graphite promptly powders under pressure and if there is too much starts to act like fine dust and not a lubricant.

Mica will not powder and is incredibly slick. You can buy it here: http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=mica A half ounce is a lifetime supply as you pour it into a puff bottle and just blow a bit of dust into the lock.

This is what a puff bottle looks like so they are easy to find, just change the contents and only half fill it. http://inspectusa.com/powder-puff-si...ce=google-base

[Scholzpdx]

Big update.

Yesterday and today my wife reported that she didn't even have to jiggle the key to get it to turn on. She said she just put the key in and turned. This is with one of the two new dealer keys we have. I didn't believe her (as evidenced by my last post), so I watched her do it several times throughout the day while on errands and it just works good as new. Surprising, since for many (thinking 7) months I've had to momentarily jiggle around to get the car to start every time.

I'm fairly certain the lock-ease did exactly just that. Cleaning out the ignition lock cylinder will be on the to-do list, but only until I can find the 7/32 nut driver.

[rayban776]

I figured I would resurrect this old post since I'm having this same problem. I may just change the cylinder out to prevent any problems. So I was wondering for those of you who have change the cylinders, do they need to be rekey'd by a locksmith or can I do this somehow at installation by myself? Thanks

[da120757]

I curse my 2001 Saturn SL1 everyday. Getting harder and harder to turn the key. When the car finally starts I can pull the key out of the ignition. Could never do that before. I have read all the posts above and will try all of them to see which one works short of having to replace the Key Assembly. thank you

[OldNuc]

Get a dealer cut key and then replace the cylinder.

Ignition switch and housing pictures.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=50
Lock keying
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho....php?t=182379#

[Tom Walsh]

Just to add my two cents , for what it's worth. I get a Vin Key from GM then go to my local locksmith and have several new keys made. The GM key hangs on my key rack. They don't seem too sturdy but will always be there to rekey.

[hardinlk]

I know this is an old thread. But hopefully it will help someone.
In short try this:
Get a new key made from a GM dealer from the VIN. Spray some WD40 in the key hole to loosen things up. If necessary, take the plastic covers off the steering column and tap on the aluminum housing the cylinder is in while you try to turn the key. If the key turns it, remove the cylinder and thoroughly clean it out. Make sure the locking bar depresses when the key is inserted in the keyhole. (Search for how GM key cylinders work on YouTube.)

Here's the longer story...
I just purchased a 2000 SL2 with 100,000 miles. The key would sometimes be difficult to turn and finally just wouldn't. I had a new key made from a GM dealer off the VIN. Still no go. Thinking I needed a new cylinder, I got to working on it. Of course, you need to turn the key to the ACC position to remove the cylinder. (Plenty of YouTube videos out there showing how to remove the cylinder). But I couldn't turn the key! What to do?
Here's what worked for me.
I sprayed WD40 into the key slot. Lots of it. Inserted the new key and while trying to turn it I tapped on the aluminum cylinder housing with a wrench. (A trick I learned from another video.) Viola! It turned and I was able to get the cylinder out. (Embarrassingly, I actually squealed with glee!).
I took the cylinder to the dealer to get a new one. He said he didn't think that was the problem. The cylinder worked fine with the new key. He thought it was just dirty. Figuring it was worth saving $150 (the cost of a new cylinder), I took it home, washed it in gasoline, then in Diesel. The Gas turned black and did the job. The diesel remained clean. I added some lubricant the dealer gave me (looked like white lithium grease) and applied it to the cylinder and the key. I reinserted the cylinder and it's been all good for a week now. Works great. No sticking at all. For what it's worth, the old keys are so worn they do not work. I'm surprised they worked as long as they did.
Good luck.

[jmitchell18]

After gaining access to the lock cylinder, lubricate the locking tabs just above the cylinder. I used graphite powder. At the top of the cylinder just outside the portion that turns you’ll see 2 metal tabs that recess and depress as the key turns. Lubricate these thoroughly. I also lubricated the cylinder itself by squirting graphite powder into the keyhole. Good as new.

[spacetrace33]

If you do end up replacing the lock cylinder, do yourself a favor and replace the housing with it.

[Saturn2002SL2]

Originally Posted by hardinlk

I know this is an old thread. But hopefully it will help someone.
In short try this:
Get a new key made from a GM dealer from the VIN. Spray some WD40 in the key hole to loosen things up. If necessary, take the plastic covers off the steering column and tap on the aluminum housing the cylinder is in while you try to turn the key. If the key turns it, remove the cylinder and thoroughly clean it out. Make sure the locking bar depresses when the key is inserted in the keyhole. (Search for how GM key cylinders work on YouTube.)

Here's the longer story...
I just purchased a 2000 SL2 with 100,000 miles. The key would sometimes be difficult to turn and finally just wouldn't. I had a new key made from a GM dealer off the VIN. Still no go. Thinking I needed a new cylinder, I got to working on it. Of course, you need to turn the key to the ACC position to remove the cylinder. (Plenty of YouTube videos out there showing how to remove the cylinder). But I couldn't turn the key! What to do?
Here's what worked for me.
I sprayed WD40 into the key slot. Lots of it. Inserted the new key and while trying to turn it I tapped on the aluminum cylinder housing with a wrench. (A trick I learned from another video.) Viola! It turned and I was able to get the cylinder out. (Embarrassingly, I actually squealed with glee!).
I took the cylinder to the dealer to get a new one. He said he didn't think that was the problem. The cylinder worked fine with the new key. He thought it was just dirty. Figuring it was worth saving $150 (the cost of a new cylinder), I took it home, washed it in gasoline, then in Diesel. The Gas turned black and did the job. The diesel remained clean. I added some lubricant the dealer gave me (looked like white lithium grease) and applied it to the cylinder and the key. I reinserted the cylinder and it's been all good for a week now. Works great. No sticking at all. For what it's worth, the old keys are so worn they do not work. I'm surprised they worked as long as they did.
Good luck.

Thanks, this is what I will try. Luckily my SL2 did that when it was parked in the garage. Saved on towing, etc.

It's a 2002 SL2. Here's the kicker though...

This is a new cylinder with a different key which was installed in April/May of 2014. In other words I have the original keys the unlock the doors (which used to be my ignition key for the old cylinder) and the new key. The new key looks like it's almost completely shaved off/worn out and a little bent by root of the key...

I'll try that tomorrow...