how to remove stuck bolt from control arm bushing?

[Thorp]

as the title says, my bolts are stuck in the control arm bushing. need tips/advice on how to get them out. did the inner/outer tie rods no issues, but i am at a complete stand still now.

Sawzall? cutoff wheel? any tricks that do not involve this?

[toggenburg]

Stuck, by rust, or?
I've never replaced those bolts, but would a lick of a propane torch break it free?

[Thorp]

it seems as if the bolt itself is stuck inside the sleeve that runs through the bushing. When I loose the bolt, the sleeve spins along with it. I already have the nuts off, but I can not seem to remove the bolts.

[toggenburg]

You tried driving it out with a 3 lb sledge?
If you thread a nut on the end it should prevent the threaded end from becoming mushrooming too large to fit back through the sleeve.

[onlinebiker]

IME you are not going to get it out with a hammer - even with the drivetrain out of the car.

I use a 4.5 inch side grinder and cut the control arm off - and then the bolt.

What you will likely find -

There are two different types of inner steel bushings - a solid tubing - probably DOM - and a rolled bushing.

The rolled type allows water in and corrosion freezes the bolt to the bushing.

Cure - buy and use only control arms with the solid tube bushing - and apply generous amounts of Neversieze when assembling. The next time the control arm gets changed - whoever is working on it - you or someone else - will praise your name as a thorough mechanic....

[Thorp]

online biker, what bolts did you buy to replace? I am trying to find new ones before cutting out the old ones, but everything seems to be some sort of camber alignment tool, and none of that is present, its just a bolt.

[fetchitfido]

Yeah, 4.5in side/angle grinder with a cutting wheel is best for getting the bolt out.

Can use most any bolt, just needs to be SAE 8 or Metric 10.9 on both the bolt and the nut. I'd make a guess on OEM size but that could mess it up for future people looking...just take one of the cut off portions to Fastenel or HD/Lowes or maybe even your local M&P hardware store. For price I'd recommend a SAE bolt & nut as the Metric ones cost dollars if not tens of dollars more.

[SRGW]

Used this when I changed the control arm on my 1995 SL1 in 2016.

1995 SL1 236,300 2005>2018
1997 SL1 93,200 2014>????
CHECK YOUR OIL!!

[hholbein]

Check out FiremanCV's video on R&R this component.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yajc...nnel=FiremanCV

[C52]

As I recall when I did mine I sprayed liberally with PB blaster then used a pry bar under the head of the bolt to pry it outwards while turning the bolt at the same time. Heat could also be used while doing this if necessary.

If you have someone else to help you can get more leverage on the pry bar.

[Thorp]

got the head of a bolt off, did me no good. just trying to saw through them. whatever they made the bushing itself out of is ridiculous. i cant even F'ing scratch it.
Carbide blade went through the arm itself( to give me room) like butter. cold butter, but still, butter. i feel like im using a butter knife to chip concrete here.

[Macgyver]

I’ve ran into this before and it’s a chore. I cut off both sides of the bolt with a cut off wheel and then pried out the inner section of the engine cradle to bow out enough to remove the control arm with the bolt still seized inside (well what’s left of it anyway). I then used a huge set of channel locks to bend the cradle control arm housing back to its original shape for the new control arm install.


I live in the salt belt and those seize in there badly. Using penetrating oil is a waste of time, it’s useless in this scenario. Coat the new bolt with globs of anti-seize when installing for easier future disassembly.

[Thorp]

im ashamed at how easily the mobile mechanic got them out vs my efforts. However, best 200$ i ever spent/

I cut off one nuthead, and then tried to saw through the bushing and sleeve itself. whatever that sleeve is seems impenetrable, carbide didnt even scratch it. Still had 1" or so of threads on the non head side of bolt, assumed prying the box/mount a bit wasnt not an option.

called mobile mechanic. he just pryed the box a bit and there was enough play and give that it just came right out, 3 minutes maybe? took him another 20 to do the other side.. 200$ for a 1/2 hour work... meh, i assumed he would be here all day when i agreed to the 200$ im ok with it. my car will be back on the road soon. that is the most important part.