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#1 |
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I got the tranny out since I'm rebuilding my motor ('97 SL2 soon to be 000 miles
![]() Also, I've read about welding the diff pin. What the heck is this, and how hard is it to get to if I got the tranny sitting on the ground. Thanks |
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#2 |
Super Member
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To weld the pin you get to take it all apart. Purple Power and a brush is your best exterior cleaner. Keep the water out of the innards. Don't spray any down the quill shaft either.
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#3 |
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Is taking it apart to get to the diff pin very involved? Is welding the diff pin necessary? I'd like my motor to run for another 200k miles, maybe even 400k (since I can assure that it will have regular oil jobs etc) and would hate for something like a diff pin prevent that from happening. What the heck is the diff pin anyways. What kind of failure can it cause?
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#4 |
Super Member
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It is the pin that the differential pinions run on. Taking the transmission apart is not difficult but welding the pin does require a knowledgeable welder as it is a difficult dissimilar metal weld. There is a hard plastic sheet inside the differential so heat is an additional issue.
The reason for welding the pin is that they sometimes come out. This breaks the case. Just buying a spare transmission will be about the same cost and probably simpler to just change the trans out if you loose the pin. This is how to get the transmission apart. http://www.differentracing.com/tech_...sassembly.html |
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#5 |
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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1995 SL1
1993 SL1
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I've blown a few diff pins in the last couple years, finally sucked it up bit the bullet and pulled the trans apart took the differential to a shop and had both ends TIG welded all the way around and reinstalled it.
It is simple to disassemble and reassemble the trans, take the differential to like a performance shop where they do a lot of fabricating for race cars, and the like, for welding. While it is out I would have it welded, beats the hell out of changing a tranny later, trust me I know this will be my 4th! (the third hasn't blown up yet, but I am trying to get it to let go so I can get rid of the automatic!) |
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#6 | |
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Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 750
2000 SL1
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Sasha: 2000 SL1, Manual, cracked head Sept. 2014. Donated Dec. 2014 I learn from my experiences. If I screw up, I'm sorry. |
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#7 |
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Location: Lower Alabama= God's country, if God wanted mosquito and red ant bites, and to be covered in mildew
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1997 SL
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To the OP
While the trans is out, you can check the diff. pin, remove the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and you will be able to rotate the diff carrier and see the ends of the diff pin. Easier when the trans is out, than when it's in the car. If one end of the pin is projecting, that's bad. At least this way you can know its condition.
...
97 SL. Bought 7/07, reluctantly sold Dec 2019 Burgman 400- indestructible beast Sportster 883- fun bike Cannondale 29er- daily driver |
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#8 |
Advanced Member
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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1995 SL1
1993 SL1
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Now where's the fun in that!?! lol.
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#9 |
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Thanks for all the advice guys. I think I'll take MikeNW's suggestion and stop at that.
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#10 |
Super Member
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Careful inspection of all components and cleaning while out of the car is always a good idea. Unless you are a frustrated Formula - 1 driver wana-be the diff pin should be fine. Some just come out but there is really not much you can do about it. Welded ones come out also.
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