2007 Saturn Ion lost acceleration while on freeway

[Spookyfrog]

Ok so a little background... I have a 2007 Saturn Ion 2, and it's been quite a headache for me the past few weeks. At the beginning of the month I had an issue with it randomly dying on me out of nowhere. I was reversing out of a driveway, and the engine just died. Wouldn't start back up. Cranked but wouldn't turn over. Turned out to be the fuel pump. When I pulled the old pump out it was fried, so I replaced it with a new one, as well as a new filter and it worked fine until last night. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly my gas pedal wouldn't respond at all. Battery was still on but no power in the accelerator. Also, the battery light came on the dash panel. I pulled over, turned the car off, went to restart it and it wouldn't start. Cranked, but wouldn't turn over. Put my battery jump starter on, got it started and it stayed on, but when I went to drive it, same thing, no power in the pedal and I had to turn it off. Got it towed home and this morning when I went to test the battery, it turned on and I was able to reverse I to my driveway. Now it will start but I'm afraid to drive it. No codes are popping up and the battery light is gone from the dash. I'm at a loss here, I could really use some help, at least a place to start. Sorry for the super long post, but I wanted to make sure that the whole issue was clear. Thanks so much to anyone who can help me out here.

[fdryer]

"Battery came on." What does that mean? Battery light on with engine running means the alternator isn't working, the drive belt is missing or battery cables are loose/corroded. Trunk mounted battery means one long red positive battery cable from trunk to engine fuse panel. How old is the battery? If you don't know, have it tested to be sure its ok. Battery cables loose, corroded? Check trunk connections. Battery ground goes to chassis. Chassis ground in the engine area connects to engine block. There's a post next to the fuse panel. This post is the other end of the trunk battery positive cable. It has two more wires, one to starter and other to fuse panel. Check for loosened post. If battery, battery cables and their connections are all good then check battery and alternator voltages.

Standby battery voltage should be 12.5v. Engine idling, alternator charging and supplying all the electrical needs of the car should be between 13v-15v, averaging around 14.5v. This presumes the drive belt is tight, driving the alternator, power steering and water pump.

[Spookyfrog]

I apologize, I meant to say the battery light came on. Thank you for the reply. I tested the battery and it was low on the voltage at idle. Turns out it's pretty old, so I swapped it for a new one. Car seems to be running much better now, but I checked the belt and the alternator as well to be in the safe side. Alternator voltage around 14.6, and the belt was tight. I'm really hoping it was just the battery. Thank you again for the reply, helped me reafirm my coarse of action and double check my process, really appreciate it.