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Old 11-25-2022, 01:10 AM   #1
PrestonIII
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1994 SL2
Default Changing Engine Mounts: '94 SL2 Automatic

Recently my SL2 has become buzzy with light vibration as the engine idles. A year ago, I installed an HD upper right engine mount and I doubt it has collapsed yet (It IS NOT the smily face mount). So, I'm getting ready to replace the other mounts.

I have 2 questions about my 1994 SL2 automatic transmission:

1) How many engine/transmission mounts are there? I'm aware of the transmission mount under the transmission, and the mount at the top right of the cylinder head (which I replaced). I also know about the strut/mount below the vibration damper. My question is, is there another strut/mount somewhere else?

2) What is the process of replacing the transmission mount? I assume one raises the transmission up off the mount, but just how far does it have to go up, and is there something above the transmission that has to come out first? My car has ABS on the master cylinder. Can the change be made in the driveway, or do I have to get the car up off the ground a significant amount? What other things have to be removed around the mount?

Any input is appreciated!

Thanks in advance:
Preston
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Old 11-25-2022, 02:08 PM   #2
fetchitfido
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2001 SC2
Default Re: Changing Engine Mounts: '94 SL2 Automatic

You may have to drop the cradle or cut the stud on the mount to get the transmission mount in. The 5spds are smaller and go up high enough before hitting the fender to get most of the mounts in without a problem but the auto's are larger. You only need about 1.5in of stud into the cradle and they usually give you 2+ inch's. Won't need to fully remove the bolts for the cradle, just enough to gain some clearance, though I never had good luck with them not turning a 10min job into a week long affair.

The 2 dog bones are fairly simple to replace, one may require the battery tray removed and the other is easier if you remove the front passenger splash shields in the fender.
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Old 11-29-2022, 06:51 PM   #3
N147JK
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Default Re: Changing Engine Mounts: '94 SL2 Automatic

I did my trans mount without cutting anything, but it was a PITA. What worked was it disconnect the other 3 mounts. Then you can jack the engine up high and nudge it to the right (driver's right) to allow the mount stud to clear the frame. Just not a well thought-out design with maintenance in mind. But, it's doable. Plan for several hours, and leave a lot of time for the cussing.

BTW, my car still has the shudder while at a stop in gear. Any other mode and it's smooth as silk. I've given up on it..

Last edited by N147JK; 11-29-2022 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 11-30-2022, 08:40 AM   #4
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2000 SL1
Default Re: Changing Engine Mounts: '94 SL2 Automatic

Some things I've learned after getting my car a year ago is the SOHC with the auto will be shaky no matter what you do (well, if left stock). They didn't put a balance shaft in these cars to save cost. As long as it's not a 'spit n sputter' like it wants to die, your car is perfectly fine.

It's partly due to the fact that the engine is under load when you have the brake on. If I take it out of drive, the engine runs perfect with no shakes, but you lose a bit of that fuel savings with the higher RPM's.

I suspect a complete overhaul of engine mounts with really premium rubber mounts would help a little bit, but that's manufacturing beyond 99% of us in these forums.

I'm indifferent on the shake, it doesn't do it when driving, so for me that's a plus
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