How-to: Tap into the S-Series electrical system to wire many things..

[adventureoflink]

…such as 3-in-1 12v adapters, rooftop DVD players, seat warmers, backup cameras (to work full time of course ), etc.

**As always, I'm posting it here then flagging the post so Charlie can move it to the how-to library**

(Credits go to OldNuc, madpogue, PurdueGuy, mattelderca, Redhotftw!, and 93SC2’in (he mostly motivated me to do it this way). and for the record they can also be attributed to my 12v power adaptor project as well.)

Original Thread: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=173890 (has loads of good info)

What you’ll need:

* #10 AWG wire (for the lead wire)
* #12 or #14 AWG wire (for the loads)
* #18, 20, or 22 AWG wire (for the relay coil)
* a Relay with the electrical connector (preferably one with a three figure coil resistance rating and a decent amperage output on the contact; I prefer 25 amps bare minimum)
* PLENTY of butt connectors, wire nuts, or solder/heatshrink wrap (of which I prefer soldering); you will need them
* Crimp-on Ring terminals (to bolt to the grounds and UHJB power)
* a fuse block and fuses for it (I prefer looking through this website: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html; I personally got the four fuse block and that’s what I’ll be using in this guide)
* a fuse holder and a fuse for whatever your relay is rated for (I personally went to Meijer for these, didn’t cost more than $5)
* a load of some kind (since I have a 3-in-1 12v adaptor that’s what I’ll be wiring in this guide; of course to run other stuff and where you will be bolting the device down to, you may have to get clever with disguising your wires SAFELY)
* drill and some bits
* masking tape and a sharpie (for wire labeling)

And here’s what you do:

0. Quick Relay Q/A test:

* take an ohmmeter and place it across relay pins 85 and 86; this is the relay coil. If you get < 10 ohm resistance, open, infinite ohms, etc. it’s defective. However, if you get an acceptable resistance (more than 60 ohms), then…
* take an ohmmeter and place it across relay pins 30 and 87; this is the relay normally open contact. If you get a infinite/open/etc reading, proceed. Otherwise the relay should be discarded.
* take an ohmmeter and place it across pins 30 and 87a; this is the relay normally closed contact. If you get around 0 ohms of resistance, proceed. Otherwise discard the relay.
* take a 9v battery (or some other 9-12v power source) and put it across pins 85 and 86. If nothing clicks, the relay is defective. However, if you get a click, then…
* take your ohmmeter and place it across pins 87 and 30 while keeping the relay coil (pins 85 and 86) energized. You should get about zero ohms of resistance; if so, the relay functions as it should. Anything more than this, or if it’s open/infinite/etc resistance, it’s defective. Also, you can put the ohmmeter across pin 87a and 30 as well; you should get open/infinite ohms with the relay coil energized.

For the relay electrical connector, you may take an ohmmeter and place one end in the connector and the other end on the wire. If you get 0 ohms (or very close to it), on all the connections it’s good; otherwise, it should be considered defective.

1. Disconnect the battery

2. Open your dashboard.

1st generation (1991-1994): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nf65ON1CpEk (watch till the 1 minute mark)
2nd generation (1995-1999): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jXiwgm3bPg (watch till the 1 minute 11 second mark; keep in mind this video is a bit quiet so crank the volume up)
3rd generation (2000-2002): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5araI3Lu6OE (watch till the 2 minute mark)

All these videos show instrument cluster removal, but since you have to get inside the dashboard anyway for this project…

3. While you got the dashboard off, this would be a good time to make the provisions for your loads that may be bolted to the dashboard; be sure to drill the appropriate mounting and wire routing holes. Do the same thing with the headliner, if you will be mounting something to the ceiling.

4. Run a wire within the main wire loom from the UHJB positive going behind the dashboard, as seen in these pics:

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4...1207152209.jpg
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8...1207152239.jpg

(Just so ya know, the red wire is for my trunk cigarette lighter project, feel free to ignore it for this project. Also, I carefully yanked the existing wire loom back and poked the grommet with a Phillips head screwdriver.)

5. You’ll have to run the lead wire to underneath the radio. Personally, I went behind the brake pedal mount and the gap above the accelerator mount. Be sure to test drive this configuration several times and check your wiring for pinching, filleting, wire exposure, etc.

6. When satisfied with the length of your wire, take your fuse holder and put a crimp ring terminal on end of it, terminate it to the UHJB positive. Be sure to have a good sized fuse for it (25-30 amps works great). Use a butt connector to attach the other wire to your lead wire. (it’s also a good idea to label your wire in the car so you don’t get confused on what wire goes where)

7. Open the console. See this video for more info: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4wbyiSwSBQ (for Gen 1 and Gen 3 this will be a bit different; hopefully someone can chime in with instructions and pics on this later)

7.5. Since this video doesn’t show the procedure for a console with power windows/mirror(s), here’s how to do it:

* upon freeing the console, you’ll take a flathead screwdriver and pop off the control for the power windows/mirror(s).
* you’ll also have to remove the electrical connectors from the control as appropriate

http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/7...1208194626.jpg

HINT: When re-installing the controller, make sure to put in the side for the power windows FIRST in the hole, then put in the side for the power mirror(s) controller.

8. You’ll also want to free the I/P fuse panel, use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pop it off from the clips, and use a 10mm socket to undo the bolt on the fuse/relay side of the panel (it’s that black colored bolt on the metal bar; awesome place for a ground IMHO).

9. Now you have full access to the back of the I/P fuse panel. Pics here:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=173989

10. What we want is the F-12 connector. This is the brown wire that goes to the ignition switch, wiper motor, and the 10 amp radio fuse. What I would do, is make a jumper wire about four inches long (this wire is #16 AWG) and clip the F-12 wire in half (be sure to free enough wire so you can work comfortably). Strip off the ends of your jumper wire, and strip off a 6-8” piece of #20 AWG wire and twist it. Terminate this pigtail with a #12-10 butt connector. Then, place the wire inline with the F-12 connector. Connect the #20 wire to one side of the relay coil. The jumper should look like this:

http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/4483/jumperwire.png

HINT: there are three different panels for electrical terminations. As you’re looking at it from the wires side (normally under the radio and such), the F-12 wire we need is NOT on the side of the panel closest to the console, rather it is closer to the back part, where the heater core is.

**WARNING** DO NOT use the F-12 connector if you are still using the OEM (Delco) radio or if you switch back and forth from it and an aftermarket unit if you are using a low ohm relay (think 60-100 ohms on the coil). You will need to find an alternate tap.

http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/5...1208204126.jpg
(above pic shows where the F-12 wire is that we need, marked by my finger)

10.5. As a quick Q/A test for the F-12 connection, re-connect the battery, take your voltmeter and place the red probe in the F-12 connector and the black to ground (the bar where the I/P block bolts to works well here). In ACC and RUN, you should have normal battery voltage. With the key out, you should have no voltage.

11. Run the other wire of the relay coil to ground. There’s plenty of good grounds, find one and use your crimp ring terminal on the wire’s end to terminate.

12. If you’re going to add stuff that isn’t going on the dash (seat warmers, rooftop DVD players, etc), this would be a great time to figure out how you’re going to run your wires safely.

13. Take your power wire that you ran earlier from the UHJB positive and run it to pin 30 of your relay contact.

14. Run the wire from pin 87 to your fuse block. Personally I would run multiple wires from this wire to each fuse block as preventative maintenance (less you have to do later if you want to add more stuff).

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9528/powersetup.png

15. Run the wiring from your loads to the new fuse block. Positive from your load goes to the fuse block on the appropriate fuse (it does no good to have a 10 amp drawing device on a 5 amp fuse for example), and negative goes to ground (either the bare metal from the chassis or an easily accessible existing ground termination). You may also want to leave some slack room in the wiring for mounting the fuse panel and relay later on.

15.5. If you have loads that will be mounted to the dashboard, headliner, etc and/or wires ran through it, it would be a good idea to install some electrical connectors in between your wiring. It’ll make it TONS easier to remove your dashboard, headliner, etc later, instead of everything getting in the way or chopping the wires then re-soldering them.

16. Mount your Relay and Fuse Block somewhere where it will be out of the way.

17. Put the car in ACC and RUN and watch your new loads magically work.

18. Re-assemble everything (I/P panel, console, dashboard, etc) and make your loads look neat by screwing them in to mount.

Questions, tips, praise, etc are always welcome

[adventureoflink]

Just so ya know there's a version 2.0 which combines the trunk power adaptor, kicking common F-5 issues in the ass, and this relay project...

Watch it here on U-tube: http://www.youtu.be/xjP2yyrlNQw

[Madness10]

I want to add a dist block in my car to add extra gauges and possible moving the cig lighter to it and maybe adding the radio to it. Have you thought about using the Painless Wiring products? What do you think about this one?
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchAll=Customs
Also, can I use one of the other unused terminals on my I/P panel for the ign hot? I have a couple that are not used(I think it is sunroof and something else) and if I can, how do I go about it?

[Madness10]

Originally Posted by Madness10

I want to add a dist block in my car to add extra gauges and possible moving the cig lighter to it and maybe adding the radio to it. Have you thought about using the Painless Wiring products? What do you think about this one?
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchAll=Customs
Also, can I use one of the other unused terminals on my I/P panel for the ign hot? I have a couple that are not used(I think it is sunroof and something else) and if I can, how do I go about it?

I am looking at this as well, what do you think? Also, what relay did you use? It looks like a low current one.
http://www.amazon.com/ATC-Position-B...I34ZJ8E7XOMV68

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by Madness10

I want to add a dist block in my car to add extra gauges and possible moving the cig lighter to it and maybe adding the radio to it. Have you thought about using the Painless Wiring products? What do you think about this one?
http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcat...rchAll=Customs

Without seeing a picture I couldn't tell you, but IMHO you should always solder and shrink wrap your terminations, never crimp.

Originally Posted by Madness10

Also, can I use one of the other unused terminals on my I/P panel for the ign hot? I have a couple that are not used(I think it is sunroof and something else) and if I can, how do I go about it?

I wanna say that Richpin does have a video on it (if anything it's the one about installing a GPS navigator), but I'm not for sure..

Originally Posted by Madness10

I am looking at this as well, what do you think? Also, what relay did you use? It looks like a low current one.
http://www.amazon.com/ATC-Position-B...I34ZJ8E7XOMV68

Actually, if you watch my U-tube video on kicking the F-5 problem in the rear end and overviewing the relay project, this is the same EXACT distribution block I used for my constant hots! (just do be sure to cut off its ring terminal and put an inline fuse in its place, PLEASE. it's the only thing I see wrong with it.)

And the relay that I used in the Saturn was one that I picked up off of All Electronics, I believe it was outlined in the OP. On my grand marquis I used some 5-pack relay deal off Amazon.com, though I'm slowly regretting that one as the connector is all 16 gauge wire. At least on AE its connector had either 12 or 10 gauge wire, forgot which. Either way it was 80 ohm coil resistance and 30 amps switched.

[Madness10]

Ok, great I have a 50amp 90 ohm relay sitting right here. Am I missing something here, I thought this project was for ign hot, not constant hot? Is the F5 Ign hot? I have my radio set up where I have both the red and yellow wire going to constant hot on the OEM wires, so I don't have to turn the key on to listen to the radio. Would that affect the F5?

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by Madness10

Ok, great I have a 50amp 90 ohm relay sitting right here.

Tell me where you got that relay and connector (assuming of course the connector uses #12 AWG or higher wire..)

Originally Posted by Madness10

Am I missing something here, I thought this project was for ign hot, not constant hot? Is the F5 Ign hot? I have my radio set up where I have both the red and yellow wire going to constant hot on the OEM wires, so I don't have to turn the key on to listen to the radio. Would that affect the F5?

Uh... you should've ran the constant hot (yellow wire) off its own fused dedicated power line and terminated this new line onto the radio harness's yellow wire. As/is you do run the risk of burning the F-5 up; as an example, I played "Magic Man" by Heart and there's a part around 3:50 that I turn ghetto blaster mode on. I had a 1A fuse on the new wire initially. Just as it got to ghetto blasting, *pop*. So yeah, that's one amp too many on that circuit

As for the red wire... you mean the ignition controlled red wire on the harness? If so the key is supposed to switch the radio on and off for a reason... and because of that, the red wire on your factory to aftermarket harness should've went to the red wire on the radio harness, although you can leave the solder joint temporarily exposed so you can terminate a smaller gauge wire on it for the relay coil trigger wire. Otherwise if you wired both the red and yellow wires to a constant hot lead, you'll find out why you should've terminated the wires properly soon enough.

And I combined all three projects (trunk adaptor, F-5, and relay) in that video, although this thread is dedicated to the relay project. The relay coil is supposed to be fed off the ignition circuit (red wire on your aftermarket radio, brown wire in the ignition switch, or the brown wire at connector F-12 which is seven spaces above the dreaded F-5 on a gen-2 S-series) so that way you can turn your loads on/off based on key position (ACC or RUN turns it on, key in LOCK and/or removed turns them off). F-5 is the constant hot (fed off the IP BATT fuse in the UHJB) for various loads in the car, including but not limited to: radio constant hot, power adaptor, interior lighting, fuel pump, etc...

[Madness10]

I installed the radio way befor I joined the forum. I have always installed my radios to power on w/o the key. Has not affected the radios and/or bateeries at all. I have the adapter that fits right into the stock harness and the other end into a molex plug. sony plug is ran into a molex connector as well. Yellow and red connected together at the molex to the oem constant power. If I run the radio constant power to the new line, should the F5 be ok to leave the cig lighter attached? I only have the relay and not the harness. I had this relay for a while now and can remember where I got it. Radio shack carries this. NTE R51-1D40-12F

Side note. Do I really need to run a seperat fuse panel then if the F5 is constant hot? If I do, then what is the realy for? The relay is for adding extra ign hots?

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by Madness10

I installed the radio way befor I joined the forum. I have always installed my radios to power on w/o the key. Has not affected the radios and/or bateeries at all.

Okay, but depending on location you might get crackheaded robbers going all oooh and aahhhh and and then *bam* your window is out and the radio is gone.

Still, one has to wonder how your radio turns on and off... you mean it's always running?

Originally Posted by Madness10

I have the adapter that fits right into the stock harness and the other end into a molex plug. sony plug is ran into a molex connector as well. Yellow and red connected together at the molex to the oem constant power. If I run the radio constant power to the new line, should the F5 be ok to leave the cig lighter attached? I only have the relay and not the harness. I had this relay for a while now and can remember where I got it. Radio shack carries this. NTE R51-1D40-12F

and regarding burning up the F-5 you'll still run the risk, as the power adaptor is used to charge cell phones, tablets, GPSes, iWhatevers, etc, which nowadays need at least 3/4 of an amp or more. Run it off its own line as well, pronto. Just so ya know, what kills the F-5 is mid-to-high powered aftermarket radios as well as charging things as I said, in addition to the fuel pump running as well (which the FP normally takes 8-10 amps of current).

And you'd think the new relay would come with a harness... still, thanks for the heads-up on the relay, I'll have to give it a go next time I attempt this.

Originally Posted by Madness10

Side note. Do I really need to run a seperat fuse panel then if the F5 is constant hot? If I do, then what is the realy for? The relay is for adding extra ign hots?

I had two separate fuse panels: one for the constant loads and the other for the relay add-on. All the relay is good for is as said in the OP, to make things turn on with the key in ACC or RUN, such as extra power adaptors, ceiling mounted DVD players, seat warmers, what have you. All you need is fused power and ground AFTER the relay contact (pins 30 and 87) and let your imagination have at you.

[Madness10]

Originally Posted by adventureoflink

Okay, but depending on location you might get crackheaded robbers going all oooh and aahhhh and and then *bam* your window is out and the radio is gone.

Still, one has to wonder how your radio turns on and off... you mean it's always running?


and regarding burning up the F-5 you'll still run the risk, as the power adaptor is used to charge cell phones, tablets, GPSes, iWhatevers, etc, which nowadays need at least 3/4 of an amp or more. Run it off its own line as well, pronto. Just so ya know, what kills the F-5 is mid-to-high powered aftermarket radios as well as charging things as I said, in addition to the fuel pump running as well (which the FP normally takes 8-10 amps of current).

And you'd think the new relay would come with a harness... still, thanks for the heads-up on the relay, I'll have to give it a go next time I attempt this.


I had two separate fuse panels: one for the constant loads and the other for the relay add-on. All the relay is good for is as said in the OP, to make things turn on with the key in ACC or RUN, such as extra power adaptors, ceiling mounted DVD players, seat warmers, what have you. All you need is fused power and ground AFTER the relay contact (pins 30 and 87) and let your imagination have at you.

The radio turns on and off thru the power button. The radio does not stay on. Next time you do a radio, just try it without making the connection full time, just put the wires together and check it out. If you dont like it, then just take the wire off and wire it up the way you would do. I thought you did have 2 different fuse panels. I would proberly do that as well. If you have a relay base, you can add your ownwires(color and size) to it.
http://www.delcity.net/store/5-Pin-M...FYN_Qgod-yMAGw

[adventureoflink]

Originally Posted by Madness10

The radio turns on and off thru the power button. The radio does not stay on. Next time you do a radio, just try it without making the connection full time, just put the wires together and check it out. If you dont like it, then just take the wire off and wire it up the way you would do.

Interesting... I'll have to give this a try. OTOH by rigging the radio this way you lose the potential tap into the red wire for the relay coil power and you'll have to tap into the brown wire in the ignition switch or pin F-12 in the IPJB instead. (Just so ya know the pin for gen-1 is C-8 and gen-3 is C-12.)

I got a couple radios in my basement I could do this to.. now I just gotta find a 12-14vDC power source up to 10 amps...

Originally Posted by Madness10

I thought you did have 2 different fuse panels. I would proberly do that as well. If you have a relay base, you can add your own wires(color and size) to it.
http://www.delcity.net/store/5-Pin-M...FYN_Qgod-yMAGw

Yep, I do have two blocks. And I have three more relays left to use (and one connector to upgrade in the grand marquis...) I'll have to order a set of these as well, thanks buddy

[Madness10]

I thought I would post a couple of pics. The first one is of the adapter to OEM wiring. The second is the way I wired the radio and the third is where I mounted the first fuse panel, which is constant power. I will be moving my radio constant power as well as the cig lighter to the new fuse box. Unlike you, where you cut your wires for the cig lighter, I will be getting another plug from the jy and doing that way. I will be using the red wire off the radio plug to activate the relay for the other fuse panel.

[badams]

Old thread I know but I'm looking into doing this and have about zero knowledge of running electrical. If you (or anyone) still have the pics can you repost them it seems imageshack no longer has them I just get their video ad. I'm going to research alot more before I even start getting the parts for this but its a project on my list.

[alordofchaos]

Rather than post questions here, start a new thread on one of the active S series forums (general and tech are most active) with a link to this thread. This How To Library is more of a reference forum rather than an active "answer questions" forum.

trottida's post (link below) has some pictures, see post 8 for example, also has a video link

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=195587