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Old 09-05-2013, 12:34 AM   #1
Pokerking1993
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Default Camber fixes

Is there anyway t remove unwanted camber from a stock suspension? Rear wheels have a noticeable amount
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:11 AM   #2
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Default Re: Camber fixes

The 'quick-fix' is a camber bolt in the top hole, the right fix is elongating the lower hole so it looks more like a rectangle with round short ends than a circle. Most all aftermarket struts come with the lower hole elongated so all you should have to do is loosen both bolts a tad and wack with a hammer.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:25 AM   #3
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Default Re: Camber fixes

To illustrate whatfetchitfido describes is a partial reprint from the service manual (if your rear suspension is as shown);

1-Loosen the 2 strut to knuckle fasteners and pull or push on the knuckle in the direction of the desired camber change. This will allow up to 1.5 degrees of camber adjustment.

2-The strut mounting bracket consists of 2 layers of metal, an inner layer and an outer layer. The inner layer has a round 14.4-14.8 mm (0.57-0.58 in) hole through it at the mounting locations, while the outer layer has a 18.4-18.8 mm (0.72-0.74 in) slot through it.
Using a round file or grinder, remove material from the inner layer of the strut bracket lower hole. The round hole may be increased to the size and shape of the slot in the outer layer. Do this on both sides of the strut bracket. To increase negative camber, remove material from the outside of the lower strut hole. To decrease negative camber, remove material from the inside of the lower strut hole.

Important

If the strut was filed or ground, paint the exposed metal with primer.
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Old 09-05-2013, 08:46 AM   #4
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Default Re: Camber fixes

^^^ as others said ^^^

I installed camber bolts because I wanted extra positive and negative camber on the front (because race car).
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:34 PM   #5
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Default Re: Camber fixes

im assuming that it is bad to cut the lower hole in the strut to fix it? Am i correct?
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:52 PM   #6
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Default Re: Camber fixes

No it's not bad at all. The service manual says to elongate the bottom hole if you have the original strut - it was made to be filed to size. fetchitfido mentions aftermarket parts will have the slots to make camber adjustments easier.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:43 PM   #7
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Default Re: Camber fixes

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
No it's not bad at all. The service manual says to elongate the bottom hole if you have the original strut - it was made to be filed to size. fetchitfido mentions aftermarket parts will have the slots to make camber adjustments easier.
Interesting, well thank you very much for that surprising bit of information i will use
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:48 PM   #8
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Default Re: Camber fixes

Idk if you guys can help me but i tried to do an alignment for my front passenger wheel cause i can see its off, but i couldn't figure out how the tie rod worked. I got under the car and wasn't sure what i could do with it... Do i just crank on the inner tie rod screw until its even cause the wheel is sitting toe out right now?
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:58 PM   #9
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Default Re: Camber fixes

Exposing more thread on the inner tie rod gives more toe-in, reducing exposed thread gives more toe-out.
Toe-in = front of wheel pointing in; toe-out = front of wheel pointing out.

You'll have to back the jam nut off 1/4 turn to get the TRE to turn and you'll want to back it off a turn or so at a time if going for toe-out. Don't forget to lock it back to the TRE before driving otherwise it can unscrew out of the TRE.

I believe the rod has flats for a 13mm wrench, the TRE for 18mm and the jam nut should either be 18 or 19mm. I figure it's all essentially pipe and don't bother figuring out what wrench and use 2 of my pipe-wrench's.
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Old 09-06-2013, 11:21 AM   #10
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Default Re: Camber fixes

+1^^^ and don't forget to remove the little hose clamp of the inner end bellows boot so you don't twist it up and distort it. With the clamp slid off the boot, the tie rod will rotate without twisting the boot.
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Old 09-06-2013, 08:33 PM   #11
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Default Re: Camber fixes

Oooops, thanks for the tip on loosening the hose clamp for the rubber bellows.
I will soon check my alignment (home-grown methods).

"im assuming that it is bad to cut the lower hole in the strut to fix it?"
Nah, there's lots of metal there. Also, you have to tighten the bejeebers out of the strut bolts & nuts. Most cars I've worked on had elongated holes from stock. Or there was enough slop to be able to change the knuckle-to-strut angle enough to get it aligned.
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