Recharge Battery

[Aspenglade]

1. If I use a trickle charge through the cigarette lighter, will that damage any of the systems?

2. Or, what if I use a solar powered charger via the cigarette lighter will it do damage?

2001 Saturn SL1, ATM base model

[fetchitfido]

Verify the cig lighter works with they key 'off' first, I don't recall it working but I'm not sure I ever tested it either. I'm not sure I'd trust the stock wiring to do this, but at the same time I'd think an under 2a charger would be fine.

It'd be safer to lop off the cig lighter plug on the charger and put clamps on the ends of the wires. Extend them to one side of the hood if needed before adding the clamps. You don't need the high-amp $$$ ones (unless you want to perma-install the charger, then I'd get a battery-tender style thing that bolts onto the battery), just something like these would work fine.

[Aspenglade]

Thank you!

[trottida]

You can permanently install a quick connect from you UHJB using the positive post and then just connect to the quick connect to plug in your charger or solar panel. I'd think you'd need a charge controller in there somewhere.

Here is a sample of a quick connect I'm referring to. Many chargers come with the SAE connector and options like this and with clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/SPARKING-Moto...s%2C159&sr=8-9

[Aspenglade]

Originally Posted by trottida

You can permanently install a quick connect from you UHJB using the positive post and then just connect to the quick connect to plug in your charger or solar panel. I'd think you'd need a charge controller in there somewhere.

Here is a sample of a quick connect I'm referring to. Many chargers come with the SAE connector and options like this and with clamps.

https://www.amazon.com/SPARKING-Moto...s%2C159&sr=8-9

Wow, that's a great idea. That will eliminate having to place the clamps, with the hood partially open. Thank you!

[TomM96]

P=EI
Power(watts)=E(volts) X I(amps
10watts = 10volts X 1ampere (probably requires 3' X 2' panel)
1watt = 10volts X 100milli-ampere (0.1amps) 6" X 12" panel

The above example is strictly ball-park qualitative...
I Might recall that more than one watt requires a control circuit (tender)

Output of photovoltaic cell will be higher if cell perpendicular to suns'
rays in south FL or Texas, than if skewed to sunlight on cloudy day in
Ontario on winter solstice....

Battery terminal connections matter.
Leakage ('parasitic loss') matters... my '97 had a constant drain
near 60 miliamps through one of the door ajar switches.
Ideally, the parasitic loss should be in Micro ampere range
(but miliamps are regularly seen).

[mattwithcats]

I have a Deltran Battery Tender cable attached.

This allows me to hook up any Deltran charger or tender up…

https://www.batterytender.com/Ring-Terminal-Harness

I used a Dremel tool to cut the “O” into a “C”…

I use the 800 milliamp tender…

https://www.batterytender.com/Batter...ern-Hemisphere

[dummo]

I bought a $20.00 solar battery tender for our 2007 Chrysler Pacifica and put it to the test plugged into the cigarette lighter and up on the dash. It didn't work. I have the car back on its hardwire battery charger/tender again.

[fdryer]

Service manuals describe most Saturns drawing no more than 50ma (50 milliamp or 0.050 amp) as parasitic current to power Passlock security, radio/pcm/bcm memory. When OnStar depleted its backup battery after it was used, OnStar would periodically broadcast automatically, drawing 250ma (0.25 amp), 'calling home'. Some owners found out the hard way of their car battery discharging mysteriously. All due to OnStar's backup battery dying and using the car battery. OnStar never uses its backup battery because it's a non rechargeable lithium long life battery. Once a car battery dies and OnStar is used to call for emergency purposes, the backup battery is used and has a limited life. Replacing it is expensive as some found. OnStar was great before cellphones became ubiquitous and was relegated to asking for directions before portable gps units became popular or enquiring why the check engine light turned on for GM support services.

Trickle chargers like a battery tender output anywhere from 500ma (0.5 amp) to 3 amps without overcharging car batteries.

Inexpensive solar chargers outputting up to 4 watts (250ma or 0.25 amp@15vdc) are little more than useless but can be considered a float charger, not charging with a lot of current and would be great for a fully charged battery left in long term parking outdoors, very slow charging for everything else.

A solar charger outputting up to 10 watts would have an equivalent output of around 0.56 amp@17.9vdc. A very low output trickle charger. Costs are around $42.

A solar charger outputting up to 20 watts would have an equivalent output of 1.1 amp. A low output trickle charger. Costs are around $70.

Some feedback from buyers found flimsy made units, much less output than rated, plastic melting from infrared heating as units sit in summer heat under front or rear window, dissatisfied consumers returning them for refund. One buyer immediately connected an ammeter to gauge actual output and observed much less output than desired.

I researched solar powered chargers for my car and was disappointed because of false advertising and the reality that any real solar charger worth buying would be outputting between 1.5-2 amps to effectively trickle charge any 12v battery. Costs would be well above $100. For me, it isn't worth the investment when a $5 plug-in 2-3 amp wall charger connected to an extension cord is all that's needed. For anyone valuing their vehicle, boat, aircraft, rv, snowmobile, atv, etc and cannot use a wall charger, the more expensive solar chargers are very useful.

Not understanding output currents needed for trickle charging may result in mistakenly buying a low cost solar charger that doesn't do squat. Output varies; less than 100% sunlight equals less output as solar cells vary output in direct proportion to sunlight exposure, exposure time, temperatures, etc.