SaturnFans.com
saturnfans.com - classifieds - forums - webmail


Go Back   SaturnFans.com Forums > Models > Saturn S-Series > S-Series Tech

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-06-2021, 09:42 AM   #1
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

I put a new battery in my SW2 yesterday, the old one was dying and starting to leak.

I took out the old battery and cleaned up the corrosion that was starting to build up with a quick hose down. I also gave the trans area a quick rinse with some engine degreaser and my pressure washer since it was looking a bit crusty.

I popped the new battery back in and headed to work. Shifting was a nightmare. Getting the car into ANY gear was a fight. Drove it home after work, same problem. Basically undrivable.

I assumed, since I hosed off the transmission, I must have dislodged a shifter cable. I felt around the lower cable, popped the retainer clip off, and what was left of the bushing crumbled into nothing in my hand. So I took the wheel off and looked, yep, that's obviously the problem, right?



So I made a new bushing out of some rubber shock absorber bushings, (super snug!) popped the clip back on, took it out for a spin and.... Same problem. Not even a little improvement.

So I checked the bushings under the center console, all good there.

Now I'm really confused. I know a home-made bushing isn't perfect, but I would have expected SOME improvement, right?

By now it was late so I decided to sleep on it.



__________________________________________________ __


So, my conclusion so far:

The bushing may have not been the problem, it only disintegrated when I got the car home, so it may have been intact and functioning at the start of the problem.

So what was the problem?

Well, when I was hosing down the battery tray, I drilled two small holes at the bottom to allow water to drain.


Did I puncture a clutch line? I haven't taken the battery back out to check yet, I'll do that later tonight.

But if I did puncture a clutch line, wouldn't I lose my clutch pedal altogether? I drove the car for 30 mins to work and 30 mins back, and never lost my clutch pedal.

What else could be the problem? I'll post more pics after I tear back into tonight.

Any thoughts?



I love my saturn, even when it fights me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg saturn_shift_cable_bushing_.jpg (221.2 KB, 114 views)
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs

Last edited by ErikTande; 05-06-2021 at 09:48 AM.
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
SaturnFans.com Sponsored Links
Old 05-06-2021, 09:45 AM   #2
fetchitfido
Super Member
fetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant futurefetchitfido has a brilliant future
 
fetchitfido's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 14,852
 

2001 SC2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

How's it shift with the engine off?
Generally if it's fine with the engine off it's clutch/hydraulics related but if it's still messed up then it's cables or internals.

Measurements to take in post 1: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...78#post1003578

Any idea if the cables have been replaced in the past? If aftermarket cables were used, they're generally turned into junk at the factory floor before they're put into "Brand X" box.
fetchitfido is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 09:54 AM   #3
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fetchitfido View Post
How's it shift with the engine off?
Generally if it's fine with the engine off it's clutch/hydraulics related but if it's still messed up then it's cables or internals.

Measurements to take in post 1: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...78#post1003578

Any idea if the cables have been replaced in the past? If aftermarket cables were used, they're generally turned into junk at the factory floor before they're put into "Brand X" box.

I'm pretty sure it was shifting fine with the engine off, it was late though so I'll double check that when I get home, thanks!
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 12:04 PM   #4
billr
Master Member
billr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 6,054
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

If the shifting is still poor with the engine off, then disconnect both cables at the trans end and try moving both arms on the trans and the lever in the cabin. Let's see if we can get a clue as to which direction to look. I gotta say, though, that if the arms and lever all operate free when disconnected, then the problem is probably in the "iffy" bushing.

*** Note that those arms on the trans must be moved in a coordinated pattern for normal operation, when you move them manually (without the cabin lever) the trans may be in two gears at one time and locked so it won't rotate. Do not try to apply engine power to the trans with those arms manually manipulated unless you are sure of what you are doing!

Is it hard to shift into all gears, or especially bad in only certain ones?

Once in a gear, will it move out of that and into neutral easy, or is the move to N also very stiff?

Last edited by billr; 05-06-2021 at 12:15 PM.
billr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 12:25 PM   #5
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post

Is it hard to shift into all gears, or especially bad in only certain ones?

Once in a gear, will it move out of that and into neutral easy, or is the move to N also very stiff?

All gears are really hard. Once it's in gear, getting back to neutral was normal.

If I remember correctly, shifting with the car off felt fine. So I'm leaning toward the hydraulics. Just so weird it starts right after a wash. And if I have a leak or created a leak, I would think I would lose the clutch completely. So weird.

I'll post more when I take the battery out again tonight.
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 01:46 PM   #6
Signmaster
Master Member
Signmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 6,281
 

1995 SL1
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

I had a similar experience after trying something different to lube the cables after and engine bay clean up. IIRC I hosed them down with WD40 to make sure to get all the water residue off of them, and used no other lube. Shifting was horrible and notchy at best.

I used some grease and worked it in, and all was back to normal. I tended to use the lighter lithium grease if I had it on hand.


With wear some of the shifter tower parts on the tranny get funky. Different people have had success with differing wet/dry lubes. In my case the difference between WD40 and grease was night and day.
...
Alordofchaos is worthy and hides in shadows only to hone his S Series knowledge ninja skills. Swift, silent, trustworthy.
Signmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 02:47 PM   #7
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Signmaster View Post
I had a similar experience after trying something different to lube the cables after and engine bay clean up. IIRC I hosed them down with WD40 to make sure to get all the water residue off of them, and used no other lube. Shifting was horrible and notchy at best.

I used some grease and worked it in, and all was back to normal. I tended to use the lighter lithium grease if I had it on hand.


With wear some of the shifter tower parts on the tranny get funky. Different people have had success with differing wet/dry lubes. In my case the difference between WD40 and grease was night and day.
I'll give that a try, thanks!
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-06-2021, 03:26 PM   #8
billr
Master Member
billr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to beholdbillr is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 6,054
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Yep, lube on the cables would be my first guess, too. Machinery likes to be lubricated; if you blast it off to get things clean you have to re-lube.

Another possibility, depending on how wild you went with the power-wash, is that you blew some crud into the clutch area that has gotten on to the friction surfaces such that the clutch can not release properly.

PS: WD40 is not a lube. It gets water out but is useless as a permanent lube. I lube cables by poking the free end up into a funnel and taping the cable housing to the funnel neck. Hold the funnel upward and fill it with a bit of oil and let it drain into the cable housing for a while; work the cable back-and-forth a few times to help the oil disperse in there. ATF is my preferred lube, it seems to migrate everywhere!

Last edited by billr; 05-06-2021 at 03:31 PM.
billr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2021, 07:18 PM   #9
Signmaster
Master Member
Signmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 6,281
 

1995 SL1
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billr View Post
Yep, lube on the cables would be my first guess, too. Machinery likes to be lubricated; if you blast it off to get things clean you have to re-lube.

Another possibility, depending on how wild you went with the power-wash, is that you blew some crud into the clutch area that has gotten on to the friction surfaces such that the clutch can not release properly.

PS: WD40 is not a lube. It gets water out but is useless as a permanent lube. I lube cables by poking the free end up into a funnel and taping the cable housing to the funnel neck. Hold the funnel upward and fill it with a bit of oil and let it drain into the cable housing for a while; work the cable back-and-forth a few times to help the oil disperse in there. ATF is my preferred lube, it seems to migrate everywhere!
No doubt WD isn't made as a lube, but works well for some stuff, and is great at keeping moisture at bay.

As for your funnel method, I do the same with plastic sandwich or freezer bags. You can often push the cable through the bad fairly tight, then just wrap a rubber band around it to make it fluid tight. Any vacuum applied to the other (lower) end helps pull in the lube as well.
...
Alordofchaos is worthy and hides in shadows only to hone his S Series knowledge ninja skills. Swift, silent, trustworthy.
Signmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2021, 11:12 PM   #10
cgg17
Advanced Member
cgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nice
 
cgg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 775

1995 SL2
1995 SW2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

First thing I would check is the hydraulics to see if the travel at the clutch for is enough. Watch this video, it explains the procedure very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL-FZ7bT4_A
If the hydraulics check out, I would look into doing the reverse gear spin down test. Put the car in neutral while idling, push in the clutch, then slide it into reverse slowly, don't flick it in. If it grinds at all then it's the pressure plate. Reverse is not synchronized, so any real rotation of the input shaft from a dragging clutch will cause reverse to grind.
If the pressure plate is bad, I would replace the entire clutch assembly and get the flywheel machined or replaced. Maybe replace the engine rear main seal too for preventative measure.
I had a pressure plate on my 95 go a few years ago; I went through three sets of hydraulics before replacing the clutch assembly. After the replacement it shifted perfectly.
...
1994 Sl2 5spd First Car, Stock: 56,576 (Totaled 1/10/2018)
1995 Sl2 5spd: Retired Daily, Not Stock: 192,000
1998 Sl2 5spd: Family Car, Stock :135,000
1995 SW2 4spd: Daily, Stock: 91,000
cgg17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2021, 01:59 AM   #11
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgg17 View Post
First thing I would check is the hydraulics to see if the travel at the clutch for is enough. Watch this video, it explains the procedure very well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL-FZ7bT4_A
If the hydraulics check out, I would look into doing the reverse gear spin down test. Put the car in neutral while idling, push in the clutch, then slide it into reverse slowly, don't flick it in. If it grinds at all then it's the pressure plate. Reverse is not synchronized, so any real rotation of the input shaft from a dragging clutch will cause reverse to grind.
If the pressure plate is bad, I would replace the entire clutch assembly and get the flywheel machined or replaced. Maybe replace the engine rear main seal too for preventative measure.
I had a pressure plate on my 95 go a few years ago; I went through three sets of hydraulics before replacing the clutch assembly. After the replacement it shifted perfectly.
While those are all probably good things to check in normal circumstances, I highly doubt they apply in my situation. I literally went from shifting fine to barely being able to shift at all in a matter of minutes.

The likelihood of my issue being related to the pressure wash/battery change/drilling holes in my battery box is almost certain. We'll find out tonight, i'm finally tearing it back apart now.
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2021, 02:44 PM   #12
ErikTande
Member
ErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the roughErikTande is a jewel in the rough
 
ErikTande's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 162
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Well, I fixed it. Short answer is I must have sprayed water into the trans through the disptick fill hole. I drained and added new fluid, shifts like butter now.




Long version:

I finally got the car back in the garage to figure out what was wrong.

Step 1 was to re-lubricate the cables, because I felt like that was the most likely problem. So I pulled the wheel off and greased them up real good. I also grabbed a pic of my home-made shifter bushing.



I put it back together and went for a quick drive, but unfortunately, greasing the cables had no effect.


Step 2 Was to make sure I didn't puncture anything when I drilled some drain holes in the battery tray. I didn't think this was likely because if I did puncture the clutch line, I would almost certainly lose my pedal completely, but I have to check anyway. So i pulled the battery next.



Here you can see the holes I drilled, and luckily, no lines where punctured.

Step 3 At this point I noticed the transmission dipstick. I had forgotten that these cars even had one. It was mostly covered in sludge with a couple little clean spots that the quick spray down with the pressure washer had gotten. So I finished cleaning the area around it and pulled it out. There was no need to "unlock it" , it lifted out of the hole with no effort. The seal is old and completely worthless.

The fact that it lifted out so easily made me immediately consider the possibility that water made it past the "seal".

I pulled it out, and the fluid looked a bit dirty and a little thin. Might as well change it.




Step 4 Drain the fluid. Yep, that looks pretty nasty.




Step 5 Re-fill trans fluid.



Step 6 Re-assemble and go for a test drivee:




Step 7 Success! Shifts perfectly again. Case closed.



So, for future reference, don't put water in your transmission. It won't shift for **** lol
Attached Images
File Type: jpg saturn_shift_bushing.jpg (178.4 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg saturn_battery_tray_.jpg (175.7 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg saturn_transmission_dipstick_.jpg (129.5 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg saturn_transmission_fluid_.jpg (181.5 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg saturn_transmission_fluid_fill_.jpg (202.0 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg saturn_engine_bay_.jpg (132.2 KB, 64 views)
...
http://www.youtube.com/velocitylabs
ErikTande is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-14-2021, 03:25 PM   #13
Waiex191
Master Member
Waiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to behold
 
Waiex191's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Poplar Grove, IL
Posts: 3,072

1999 SL2
1998 SC2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ErikTande View Post
At this point I noticed the transmission dipstick. I had forgotten that these cars even had one.
Glad I'm not the only one! I found it when we did the rebuild.

You can slot a fender washer of the appropriate size and sneak it under the locking arm. That will improve the seal.


Excellent job and thanks for the writeup.

Also, unrelated, but once upon a time you had asked to see a solution to broken door tabs. Seemed like you were away for a bit, not sure if you saw this:
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...234273&page=12
...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018
Waiex191 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2021, 09:04 PM   #14
Signmaster
Master Member
Signmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to beholdSignmaster is a splendid one to behold
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 6,281
 

1995 SL1
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Well that will do it for sure.

Often the tranny fluid goes without maintenance on the manual tranny cars, so it might have been a good thing. Years of rowing those gears does thin that fluid out.
...
Alordofchaos is worthy and hides in shadows only to hone his S Series knowledge ninja skills. Swift, silent, trustworthy.
Signmaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2021, 10:02 PM   #15
cgg17
Advanced Member
cgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nicecgg17 is just really nice
 
cgg17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 775

1995 SL2
1995 SW2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Yep, water will do that. Last winter I power washed my 95, apparently some water got around the shift cables. Had to bring it inside the garage for a few hours before I could wiggle the shifter again.
...
1994 Sl2 5spd First Car, Stock: 56,576 (Totaled 1/10/2018)
1995 Sl2 5spd: Retired Daily, Not Stock: 192,000
1998 Sl2 5spd: Family Car, Stock :135,000
1995 SW2 4spd: Daily, Stock: 91,000
cgg17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2021, 09:15 PM   #16
TomM96
Senior Member
TomM96 has a spectacular aura aboutTomM96 has a spectacular aura about
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,890
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

From a 1970s Yamaha bike manual:

Do Not use a pressure washer. It will get inside the case/housing.
TomM96 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2021, 05:48 PM   #17
td1238
Master Member
td1238 will become famous soon enoughtd1238 will become famous soon enough
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 2,164

1999 SL2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

You likely need a new clutch. I replaced mine 2 years ago at 325,000 miles, and wish I had sooner. The diaphragm spring fingers get weak, and don't transfer motion to the diaphragm spring to lift the pressure plate. This is confirmed when you remove the pressure plate and see the fingers all compressed compared to a new one. While height does change with the plate installed, as surfaces wear, it should be identical to a new one when removed, with the plate against its stops. I did all of the other b.s. with the hydraulics, and all it ever did was sorta improve things. Damaged my shift cables forcing gears, too, and lemme tell you, replacing them is a far bigger PITA than replacing the clutch. The clutch on these cars is easily replaced, and good God is a new one wonderful. Pedal releases high now, nowhere near the floor.
td1238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2021, 05:59 PM   #18
Waiex191
Master Member
Waiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to beholdWaiex191 is a splendid one to behold
 
Waiex191's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Poplar Grove, IL
Posts: 3,072

1999 SL2
1998 SC2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Quote:
Originally Posted by td1238 View Post
You likely need a new clutch. ...
Keep reading, at post 12 he documented what he found and the fix.
...
Bryan Cotton
'99 SL2, 5SP bought new
Rebuilt at 204,067 September 2017
Engine, subframe, diff pin mod, brake lines, headliner, alternator, and so on!
'98 SC2, 5SP bought 2018
Waiex191 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2021, 07:16 PM   #19
td1238
Master Member
td1238 will become famous soon enoughtd1238 will become famous soon enough
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 2,164

1999 SL2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

Seems to be a common problem with the Dex 3, if one hoses down the engine. Water gets in and causes poor shifting.
td1238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2021, 08:59 PM   #20
td1238
Master Member
td1238 will become famous soon enoughtd1238 will become famous soon enough
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 2,164

1999 SL2
Default Re: REALLY hard to shift - bad cables? bad hydraulics?

So, 3 things. First, I partially apologize because I did kinda graze this post quickly. This time I re-read it better.

Second, however, what I did see is that it was easy to shift with the engine off, but not with it on. If you are stopped with the clutch in and the engine on, but not moving, and it's still difficult to shift, your clutch diaphragm spring most likely is starting to fail, though it could also be the rare occurrence of air in the hydraulics or a bad check valve in the master piston.

Third, getting water in the trans will cause the fluid and synchro clutches to not work properly. Shifting while driving will be crappy. The trans has a breather tube, and all you have to do is hose down your engine and get a little water in here, and shifting turns to garbage. *HOWEVER,* the clutch should still completely disengage the trans, and with the vehicle not moving, shifting should be identical with the engine on or off, especially if you push in the clutch and give the gears time to slow down. If it is *NOT,* then your clutch is starting to fail, but just not terribly. When you replace the fluid with fresh fluid, the synchros start to do their job correctly for normal gear shifts, and also to bring the gears to a stop when they're otherwise still spinning because the clutch isn't disengaging fully. If this is so, it will get worse and worse with time. Solution is fairly simple. Drain trans, disassemble left suspension. Pull left axle. Unbolt trans and slide into left fender area (plastic guard removed), replace clutch, and put it back together. Not terrible.
td1238 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Shift cables bk63 Vue General 12 11-20-2014 09:57 AM
VUE shift cables bk63 Vue General 8 05-19-2014 09:36 AM
Shift Cables - which goes where? rcw3586 S-Series Tech 34 07-07-2012 06:43 PM
Shift Cables hartley88 S-Series Tech 0 06-04-2009 02:47 PM
replaced shift cables-still won't shift savvy_cowgirl S-Series Tech 11 09-07-2006 11:41 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:46 AM.

Advanced Forum Search | Advanced Photo Search


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
SaturnFans.com. The Saturn Enthusiasts Site.