2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Timing Belt Kit + Camshaft + Crankshaft Seals

[BrandonKastning]

Hey everyone! As some of you may have seen on the following two threads (I would like to focus the timing belt stuff into 1 thread to make it easier for everyone); I have embarked on my Timing Belt Kit Replacement Journey, as well as the Camshaft and Crankshaft Seal Replacement.

I will be posting all my galleries on this upgrade for my 01 L300 for our 3.0L V6 GM L81 Engine here on this thread.

The two threads mentioned above are here:

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=267532

Thanks to:

Rj 2000 LS2
fdryer
Dsaturn
ernesto rex


The Actual Water Pump Replacement I learned from this man: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qiorMJOC4Y

My Actual Repair can be seen within the above mentioned thread starting on this post: http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...2&postcount=18


2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Crankshaft Balancer (Remove-How?)
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=267542

Thanks to:

RJ 2000 LS2
fdryer
ernesto rex

The pictures attached here I used from the Video from this man: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFWtovLxE4Y (How to Replace a CTS Timing Belt) -- Exact same engine as our 3.0L V6 GM L81's.

I used the screen shots as a reference point to mark my harmonic balancer prior to cranking the crankshaft using a breaker bar and the E20 Torx Socket that comes with the following kit I picked up for this upgrade:

~ Baum Tools B4145 (GM V6 Timing Belt Kit)
https://www.amazon.com/Baum-Tools-Ec.../dp/B00UC4IK1K

also will be using the following Camshaft Seal and Crankshaft Seal Kit here:

~ Private Brand Tools PBT70960 Crankshaft and Camshaft Seal Tool Kit
https://www.amazon.com/Private-Brand.../dp/B005R3SSGI

* Charlie (Site Admin): Feel free to slipstream your referral in the amazon links if you like! Not interested in anything like that here!

Thanks again everyone!

So for so good!

Best Regards,

~ Brandon

[BrandonKastning]

Pre-Marks: (Existing Marks Prior To Me Using White out) Gallery-1

[BrandonKastning]

Pre-Marks: (Existing Marks Prior To Me Using White out) Gallery-2

[BrandonKastning]

My-Marks: (Marking Time Slots Using White out for Easier Timing) Gallery-1

[BrandonKastning]

My-Marks: (Marking Time Slots Using White out for Easier Timing) Gallery-2

[BrandonKastning]

w/ White-Out Engine Timing Marks: (Cranking Crankshaft to Line up Timing Marks) - 1

[BrandonKastning]

w/ White-Out Engine Timing Marks: (Cranking Crankshaft to Line up Timing Marks) - 2

[BrandonKastning]

w/ White-Out Engine Timing Marks: (Cranking Crankshaft to Line up Timing Marks) - 3

[BrandonKastning]

w/ White-Out Engine Timing Marks: (Cranking Crankshaft to Line up Timing Marks) - 4

[BrandonKastning]

w/ White-Out Engine Timing Marks: (Cranking Crankshaft to Line up Timing Marks) - 5

[BrandonKastning]

I don't know if you can tell or not that I was using Cam Sprocket #3 and it's timing marks to align the timing marks (and using the Harmonic Balancer's Markings to bring it into a full TDC) while cranking clockwise the crankshaft using a breaker bar and the E20!

The Crankshaft / Harmonic Balancer turned past the "oil pump's" ? metal marker only once before everything lined up coming back around.

For each time I pulled the socket out and re-aligned it for another crank (It was about mid-way | the breaker bar -- up and down wise) and then a full pull down to the far right.

Each time (I took a picture). So that's the exact times that I moved the crankshaft. (Minus 1 picture not here of me moving the crankshaft clockwise a fraction of an inch to TDC as 100% as possible -- once I corrected the small fraction; the Red Key for Camshaft #1 & #2 and the Green Key for Camshaft #3 & #4 fit perfectly in.

In the video this man explains that you can inter-change cam sprockets which is why each set are labeled with two timing sets. I haven't numbered each cam sprocket just yet; I will do this before removing them for the camshaft seal replacement's / upgrades.

So make sure to be aware of this (there are two markings - don't get them confused) -- you could time wrong!

I then used the J-42069-20 and Gauged the Timing Marks on both Cam sets 1 & 2 and 3 & 4.

Current Results:

Camshafts #1 & #2 = almost 100%
Camshafts #3 & #4 = looks 100%

(This is what this man also mentions in his video for the CTS) -- Says it's common and it happens to others also. Typically it's due to the pulley or idler off or something. (I hope to resolve this after replacing/upgrading the old ones and actually get hands on understanding of what I am to understand/do to succeed).

Time for some food. Stomach is feeling a bit better and needs something!

Best Regards,

~ Brandon

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 1/6

Turns out RJ was right on the "key" area for prying to the right of the crankshaft pulley (literally the same exact spot as the oil pump's TDC line-up) has a perfect "key" pocket.

Worked nice to pop it out (the opposite side as seen in Gallery 2) shows me using a Orange flat head screw driver to pop the other side. (Not enough width / space for a pry bar) -- at least not The Dominator.

Wasn't but a short while later I was cleaning up oil deposits and preparing the next phase of this upgrade.

As you can see the Crankshaft Area is absolutely gunked up with tons of oil. I am guessing the Crankshaft Seal is due for a replacement. Significant amounts of oil and conveniently in the same spot as my leaks!

Thanks again everyone!

~ Best Regards,
Brandon

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 2/6

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 3/6

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 4/6

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 5/6

[BrandonKastning]

Crankshaft Pulley / Harmonic Balancer Removal: Gallery 6/6

[Rj 2000 LS2]

I wouldn't assume the oil debris is from the seal. When those valve covers leak, oil will cover everything below especially around the crank pulley because it has no where to go.

Looks like you are doing a good job! I wish our engine was so clean!

[BrandonKastning]

Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2

I wouldn't assume the oil debris is from the seal. When those valve covers leak, oil will cover everything below especially around the crank pulley because it has no where to go.

Looks like you are doing a good job! I wish our engine was so clean!

RJ,

You think the oil got all sucked into one area huh? Valve cover gaskets... those darn things! On my list of upgrades! Thanks, I appreciate that. I don't want to jump the gun yet.

Nothing cans of GUNK and shop towels can't handle, right?

I also used lots of dish washer scrubbies. However like you said on previous threads; there is no point in cleaning the outside unless the root problem is fixed. It makes it lots easier to find the source root if you can visually see in my opinion. In the long run; provided I don't destroy my engine, the engine should run a whole lot less hot in my opinion because of all the oil debris gone. With the timing belt full of oil debris on the belt; the casing on the inside all oiled and all who knows behind the camshaft gears yet.

The timing belt case used to run very hot. I hope this remedies this!

The following gaskets/seals are on my list if my tools can handle the requirements:

~ Head Gaskets w/ new Bolts
~ Valve Cover Gaskets
~ Intake Manifold Gaskets (Upper & Lower)
~ Exhaust Manifold Gasket
~ all other small gaskets and major seals in the Overhaul Sealing Kits.

(These kits range from $39-190) from my research. I have seen an overhaul kit sold by DNJ without new Head Gasket Bolts and they want close to $180 for it. However; I have seen a duplicate (exact same gaskets and seals) selling for $40-55-60. I took my chance on the $40 one to see if I got lucky and it included everything the $180 has inside of it.

Fingers crossed it's not "only" the Head Gaskets. (Which won't help in the long run and have no use for two).

What I have been thinking about without going off topic too and deviating from the timing belt and cam/crank seal upgrades are the next steps:

~ Thermostat + Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
~ Head Gasket + Bolt Replacement
~ Other Gasket's

I keep wondering if I can move to the next step and upgrade the thermostat and clean up all that's around that area. Replace the valve cover gaskets (clean this area up). -- Then can I remove "the entire part" of the engine block (since the cylinder heads are below it).

(While retaining my thermostat + valve cover gasket replacement upgrades) ? OR do I have to finish this timing belt thread and then go all the way to the head cylinders FIRST, working my way to the Valve Covers and Thermostat and then continue to put it back together, all torq'd to specification(s).

I found a nice gasket tool remover (Set of 3 flat head looking drivers) I plan to use on the heads if I can get that far.

Have a good morning!

Thanks again!

~ Best Regards,
Brandon

[Rj 2000 LS2]

Slow down there, don't do too much because one mistake can be very difficult to find if you do a dozen repairs at once. Do one thing, one repair, withing reason, and then verify it is correct before moving on to the next. Timing belt and water pump are basically one repair.

There are things on your list that just don't need to be done. Exhaust manifold gaskets? Why? Head gaskets? Why? Perhaps it would have easier to pull the engine and work on it on a stand! I found doing the valve cover gaskets a total beotch. There are so many inaccessible bolts and everything fits together in a catch 22 engineering where it is very difficult to figure what and which comes apart first! I can give you some tips when you get to the valve cover gaskets which requires the removal of all intake components and ERG.