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Old 02-03-2014, 04:46 PM   #1
Rknow82
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Default SC2 Head Replacement

I have a 2002 SC2 with 224,300 miles. This is my daily driver of 104 miles round trip daily. Recently I have been getting a very rough idle at stop lights etc... and even more recently it has been not wanting to start... Long story short I took to a local shop to get a diagnosis and they found no compression in Cyl 3. They did a leakdown test and determined to be either a stuck or burnt valve causing this issue. Has anyone had the same problem?

I am in the process of removing the head I have ordered all replacement parts, rebuilt head, gaskets, timing kit (because why not)... Anybody have any advice for me while I do this, anything to do with the bottom while exposed etc...

I would appreciate any advice you all may have.

Thanks a ton!
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:54 PM   #2
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Burning the #3 exhaust valve is a common failure mode for the DOHC engine. It results from running lean. Besides the head repair/replacement, you need to find out what caused the lean condition. A fuel pressure check is essential. Others will chime in with more expertise on the head replacement dos and don'ts.
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:55 PM   #3
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Thanks for the info!
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:30 PM   #4
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

With that many miles, you may want to consider rebuilding the whole engine. As others have stated, most likely a lean condition burnt the valve. You can probably still use the cylinder head you have, just have a machine shop check everything over on it. May not be a bad idea to get your fuel injectors flow tested to ensure none are partially plugged up causing a lean condition.
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:44 PM   #5
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Great thanks I will get those tested. Do typical auto parts stores test those?
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Old 02-03-2014, 05:55 PM   #6
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

No they do not. Fuel injector cleaning and testing is a 80$ + shipping proposition and rebuilt used injectors are 100$ + shipping so there is minimal difference in cost. No local parts store will give you those prices either.
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:26 AM   #7
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Do any of you guys suggest a certain company online that does injector cleaning?
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Old 02-06-2014, 11:19 AM   #8
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

http://www.witchhunter.com/
http://www.cruzinperformance.com/

You will spend within $10.00 of buying a complete new or rebuilt set to have them cleaned. This cleaning does not flow balance the injectors either.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:11 PM   #9
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

What do you guys suggest for priming the new oil pump? I am finally putting it all back together.
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Old 02-20-2014, 03:17 PM   #10
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

We happen to have a procedure for that.
To prime the oil system on a Saturn engine after a complete overhaul, head replacement, timing chain replacement or long term storage perform the following steps.
-Fill crankcase with 4 1/2 quarts of fresh new 5w-30 oil if this is the initial fill following a rebuild otherwise use 4 quarts of oil. Use a decent quality name brand oil.
-Fill a squirt pistol type oiler with the same oil.
-Squirt oil into the square port on the right side of the filter base do this several times until you can not get more oil to stay in it. This will take 4 to 6 ounces of oil.
-Fill the new oil filter a bit more than 1/2 full and screw it in place.
-Remove the PCM B fuse from the UHJB (under hood fuse box). This will prevent the fuel pump and injectors from operating while priming.
-Remove spark plugs if installed.
-Place 1 squirt of 5w-30 oil in each cylinder.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine with the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. This may take several 20-30 second runs of the starter.
-Release key when the oil pressure light goes off.
-Turn key to crank and crank engine again until oil pressure light goes out. Repeat 2 times.
-Replace spark plugs.
-Replace PCM B fuse.
-Prime fuel system by turning key to on but not crank and wait until pump stops, turn key to off, wait 30 seconds. Repeat 2 times.
-Start engine.

If you did any ring replacement or lower end work then use this sequence following the engine start.
-After start.
-If engine running as expected continue to let it sit and idle while you inspect for leaks and other off normal behavior.
-Do not touch the gas!
-Allow to sit and idle until the fan cycles on and off twice.
-Shutdown engine and allow a 30 minute oil drain down time
-Replace the oil and oil filter with a Pure One PL20195 or Mobil-1 209 filter and a name brand high quality synthetic blend oil. Valvoline works or Casterol.
-Drive car conservatively, no steady RPM operation and hold max top gear RPM to ~3000 RPM
-Closely monitor oil level by parking in the exact same spot and checking level after a 6 hour minimum drain down time. Maintain oil level at the Full mark or up to the lower edge of the "U" in full.
-Once it has been established that oil consumption is zero change oil and filter.
-At this point using a high end 100% PAO synthetic oil is the best option.
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:01 PM   #11
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

There is no need to prime the oil pump before doing this? I have been reading it needs to be packed with Vaseline.
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:42 PM   #12
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

The oil pump is primed with oil in the step above that reads "
-Squirt oil into the square port on the right side of the filter base do this several times until you can not get more oil to stay in it. This will take 4 to 6 ounces of oil." Do not pack Vaseline into the pump as it is known to block oil filters.
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Old 02-21-2014, 04:13 PM   #13
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Thank you so much!!! Appreciate all of your help
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:12 PM   #14
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

I have a bit of slack between the top sprockets in the timing chain is this normal? Will it tighten?

One last question what spark plugs do you recommend to run in an sc2?

Looking forward to firing this up tomorrow with the new head!! Once again thanks all for your help!
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #15
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Yes, there is a slight droop in the chain, not an issue. Verify the movable guide moves freely.

I use the NGK BKR5ESA-11 or BKR5E-11 or BKR5ES-11 they are all basically the same plug except for the top insulator configuration or the ground electrode. I have many years of good luck with them, other brands not so much.
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Old 02-21-2014, 09:46 PM   #16
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

"I have a bit of slack between the top sprockets in the timing chain is this normal? Will it tighten? "

Has the engine been rotated a few turns by hand? I have only played with one chain, but found that the slight looseness in it, when first put on, was taken up by the ratcheting chain-tensioner as soon as the crank was rotated a bit. After that, there was no appreciable slack.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:20 PM   #17
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

The gen 3 will sometimes show a very slight droop even after rotating crank to verify clearance. The chain should be droop free when you are actually turning the crank, clockwise only. The chain only pulls tight when oil pressure is applied to the tensioner and the chain is moving under all conditions.
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:30 PM   #18
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Is the gen3 chain tensioner different than the gen2?
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:57 PM   #19
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Tensioner is the same but the chain length is different and the there is no top guide so you can see the slack when the system is at rest easier.
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Old 02-22-2014, 03:35 PM   #20
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Default Re: SC2 Head Replacement

Quick question for you.... My oil light works, it's not burned out. We primed like you guys said and the light never came on. Is it possible we never had low pressure? Oil came to top of koto. And yes it's a fresh oil change.
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