2001 Saturn SL2 key duplication

[smuckola]

Hi guys. Can I get a full duplicate of a 2001 SL2 key at a national chain for cheap, like at Ace Hardware or Home Depot? I'm sure this thing predates chips or circuits because when I bought it new, I got a backup key as a wallet insert and it's just a little metal stick. I had my real original key duplicated at Ace Hardware and it unlocks the door but doesn't start the ignition, so I wonder if that was just a bad one. Is this supposed to work? Or do I need to pay crazy money like $80 at a dealer and present my VIN and my ID and title and everything? Thanks!

[dummo]

It should be an ordinary metal key. My 1997 SW2 is an ordinary key and my 2004 Ion had an ordinary key so I'm 99% certain your 2000 was an ordinary key.

I would guess the key you had cut was a bad cut (human error).

Story: My daughter's 2008 Nissan Sentra had a chip key that had to be programmed by the dealer but first I had to buy a $30.00 blank key and I brought it to The Home Depot to be cut by an employee. Well the guy doing the cutting did not follow the clearly marked step by step 1-2-3 markings on the key cutting machine. He basically went back and jiggled the step '2' of inserting the key in the slot after completing step '3' so basically he did step 1, step 2 step 3, step 2, step 4... I didn't think much of this until the key didn't work when I got it home and it didn't turn. So a mail order $30.00 blank key purchase was rendered useless.

So if you simply need a working key, buy the blank where they cut it, that way if they mess up on the cut, it will cost them their key until they get the cut right.

[dummo]

D058A017-E146-4122-A893-6669B90F81F1.jpg

This is The Home Depot's version of the Saturn key available ten years ago BTW.

[mattwithcats]

I see 14R1 on the key…

Plugging that in yields…


Silver/Black #14r1 Brass Automotive Key Blank https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Bra...Blank/50298285

[smuckola]

OK thanks. The context story is helpful. I hope this thread becomes googlable because I couldn't find anything.

My 2001 SL2 has electric locks and alarm, but the lock motors in the door went crazy and had to be disconnected. They were sitting there twitching all day every day, and repeatedly killing the car battery! And I lost my keyfob. So my next question is, is it possible to get a cheap reliable aftermarket keyfob replacement somehow, just to arm and disarm the alarm? Even though the locks can never work again without rare plastic little parts that would be equally poorly aged in a junkyard or magically 3D printed from nowhere. Or is the alarm tied to the mechanical locks?

I'd read about aftermarket keyfobs being about $30 online but somewhat mysteriously unreliable but I know nothing. So I gave up.

[trottida]

Originally Posted by smuckola

OK thanks. The context story is helpful. I hope this thread becomes googlable because I couldn't find anything.

My 2001 SL2 has electric locks and alarm, but the lock motors in the door went crazy and had to be disconnected. They were sitting there twitching all day every day, and repeatedly killing the car battery! And I lost my keyfob. So my next question is, is it possible to get a cheap reliable aftermarket keyfob replacement somehow, just to arm and disarm the alarm? Even though the locks can never work again without rare plastic little parts that would be equally poorly aged in a junkyard or magically 3D printed from nowhere. Or is the alarm tied to the mechanical locks?

I'd read about aftermarket keyfobs being about $30 online but somewhat mysteriously unreliable but I know nothing. So I gave up.

The issue with the chattering locks is related to a bad lock switch on the door. It is a common problem and it is usually the drivers side as it gets more use. You can buy the switch; it is readily available for around $15 on Amazon or your FLAPS. You can also take one from a donor car passenger side (used less) and swap it into the drivers side bezel. The OEM part number for the drivers side with bezel is ‎21023581 or you can buy the Dorman version like the link below. For now you can disconnect the switch and power up that circuit again to confirm.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-901-13...ps%2C74&sr=8-1

A new key can be cut from VIN at any GM dealer for under $20. If they ask for more they are hosing you. The last one I had cut was $12 CAD. The S Series did not have chipped keys either; they are just a normal key.

FOBs are readily available on-line or you can grab one from a donor car and have it programmed for your car. Being a GEN3 you cannot program it yourself; it has to be done by a dealer or locksmith.

[trottida]

This video may be helpful too; it shows how to replace the door switch.

Saturn SL2 - Driver Door Lock Switch Replacement

The switch was used in all S Series models from 1995 through 2002. Sedan, coupe and wagon.

The GM part number for the FOB is 16263074 and it was used in various Saturn, Chevrolet and Pontiac models from 2000-2005. Go to a pick n pull and grab a few. Have them all programmed at the same time as that is required anyways; so the cost shouldn't be any more than doing just one. All FOBs are reprogrammed when introducing a new FOB.

ear Make Model Body & Trim Engine & Transmission
2005 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, LS Sport 2.2L L4 - Gas
2005 Pontiac Sunfire Base 2.2L L4 - Gas
2004 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, LS Sport 2.2L L4 - Bi-Fuel, 2.2L L4 - Gas
2004 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2.2L L4 - Gas
2003 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, LS Sport 2.2L L4 - Bi-Fuel, 2.2L L4 - Gas
2003 Pontiac Sunfire GT, SE 2.2L L4 - Gas
2002 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, LS Sport, Z24 2.2L L4 - Bi-Fuel, 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2002 Pontiac Sunfire GT, SE 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2002 Saturn SC1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2002 Saturn SC2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2002 Saturn SL Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2002 Saturn SL1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2002 Saturn SL2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, Z24 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2001 Chevrolet Malibu Base, LS 3.1L V6 - Gas
2001 Oldsmobile Alero GL, GLS, GX 2.4L L4 - Gas, 3.4L V6 - Gas
2001 Pontiac Grand Am GT, GT1, SE, SE1 2.4L L4 - Gas, 3.4L V6 - Gas
2001 Pontiac Sunfire GT, SE 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SC1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SC2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SL Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SL1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SL2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2001 Saturn SW2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier Base, LS, Z24 2.2L L4 - Bi-Fuel, 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2000 Pontiac Sunfire GT, SE 2.2L L4 - Gas, 2.4L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SC1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SC2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SL Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SL1 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SL2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
2000 Saturn SW2 Base 1.9L L4 - Gas
(32 fitments)

[Kaervak]

To expand on what trottida said about programming the keyfobs on third gens......


You can do them yourself if you purchase one of the aftermarket fobs that comes with the programmer. They work quite well and are pretty easy to use. Alternatively, if you know someone with an Autel scan tool or another high end scan tool they can program keyfobs as well. I've done many GM fobs with my Autel without issue, takes maybe five minutes.

[PrestonIII]

Leave a window open in wet weather: the door lock switch gets wet, and the water intermittently shorts the contacts inside, causing the door locks to constantly actuate on and off. It doesn't really have to be the driver's door switch. The passenger side can do the same thing.

In either case, whether wet or old and worn, it's time to replace the switch.

You can pop the switch out of the door panel, and unplug it. Then the locks should stop jiggling. Try both doors to see which switch is the culprit.

Preston

[Upstate Saturn]

Originally Posted by trottida

The GM part number for the FOB is 16263074 and it was used in various Saturn, Chevrolet and Pontiac models from 2000-2005. Go to a pick n pull and grab a few. Have them all programmed at the same time as that is required anyways; so the cost shouldn't be any more than doing just one. All FOBs are reprogrammed when introducing a new FOB.

Thanks, trottida, that's excellent advice. I'm still using my original fob and I know the car came with a spare, but I've moved for work three times since I bought it in 2001, and I have no idea where it is. I have spare keys, but no fob.

[smuckola]

Originally Posted by trottida

The issue with the chattering locks is related to a bad lock switch on the door. It is a common problem and it is usually the drivers side as it gets more use. You can buy the switch; it is readily available for around $15 on Amazon or your FLAPS. You can also take one from a donor car passenger side (used less) and swap it into the drivers side bezel. The OEM part number for the drivers side with bezel is ‎21023581 or you can buy the Dorman version like the link below. For now you can disconnect the switch and power up that circuit again to confirm.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-901-13...ps%2C74&sr=8-1

A new key can be cut from VIN at any GM dealer for under $20. If they ask for more they are hosing you. The last one I had cut was $12 CAD. The S Series did not have chipped keys either; they are just a normal key.

FOBs are readily available on-line or you can grab one from a donor car and have it programmed for your car. Being a GEN3 you cannot program it yourself; it has to be done by a dealer or locksmith.

Hi there. Thanks so much for the info. The mechanic who disconnected my locks to stop the chattering, said the broken part was inside the door, and that it wasn't the switch. He showed it to me, some little internal plastic part that fits in your palm and looks like it might be 3D printable. Do you know exactly what that part is or where to get one? It was a couple years ago so I don't know what the part is. He said if he had another one, the electronic lock would be fixed. But the only source he knew of would be a junkyard, with likely equivalent aging weakness problem.

On a side note, I already recently had my rocker switch setup replaced in the center console because they wore out and quit operating the windows reliably.

Both of my local GM dealers in Kansas City quoted me about $140 for the replacement keyfob and $100 to program it. I see that the kiosk at Home Depot serves keyfobs but I don't know if it serves a 2001 Saturn SL2. I think I lost my original keyfob too, and I don't know anybody who can program them cheaper.

[trottida]

The only 2 electronic components in the door that relate to the power door locks are the switch and the lock actuator. The rest are rods, clips and wiring. So if it is not the door switch then it has to be the actuator. See photo below; you can get them from Rockauto.com or take one from a donor car from the rear passenger door to put in the front drivers door. I still think it is the switch based on the symptom and it would be easy to test assuming the actuator is still there. If not I bet you will end up replacing both.

Regarding the FOBs, get some used ones (2 or 3) from your local auto wrecker or refurbished ones online and save yourself $60-80 per ea. Then bring them all to the GM dealer or a capable locksmith for programming; it is the same procedure to program 1 as it is to program multiple. They all have to be programmed at once or the missing ones will lose programming. Here they are refurbished; you're looking for the 4 button version. >>KeylessRemoteWarehouse.com

[TomM96]

Check your locksmith sources prices before committing--
a local dealer here asked $20 just for the key blanks. A local auto-security
locksmith would charge $85 to program a Fob.

I concur with Trottida : the issue generally just a bad switch. In my first case, the return spring in the switch broke. Second time the switch was A-OK mechanically, however a new Dorman switch ($20 @ FLAPS) rectified the problem ... has been good for 30kMi. First switch fine after 80kMi.

It should be clearly stated that removal and installation of some of the
door-lock links and clips is difficult to do using human appendages --
not sure what Saturn assemblers employed for the task.

Funny story: I jog a couple miles regularly. One day i heard something
clicking as approached a car i often passed. Pretty sure it was a door lock
switch gone haywire. I go to front door of residence, and person opens
door, and we attempt to communicate. This goes on for a couple minutes.
Neither person can understand any utterances of the other. So, I waved
bye bye, and continued to jog.