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Old 05-07-2021, 08:34 AM   #1
rfisher
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Default return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

hi sages- given the poor accessibility of this plug and the difficulty of getting leverage what is the best way to remove this plug to check level or drain and refill. would love to hear from one who has actually done this . shyster gm dealer mechanic offered to remove trans to gain access and leverage . joker wanted $600. appears hole on plug requires an odd size allen key or torx socket. L100 manual says 60k fluid change(90 weight or atf?) . L100 has 190k. thanks tons bob f
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Old 05-07-2021, 09:42 AM   #2
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

I changed the oil in my transmission when I had the transmission out for a clutch replacement. It has been several years ago but I think it is 12mm. The drain plug is too close to the subframe to use conventional tools. The fill plug is the same and also difficult to access. And GM also says the transmission takes special oil about $25 per quart. I used a full synthetic manual transmission oil that was about $10 per quart. This was at 200,000 miles and I am over 250,000 now and the car shifts fine.
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Old 05-07-2021, 11:15 PM   #3
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

hi O2- i think the book calls for atf in the trans. so when you had the trans out and on the ground did you unscrew the fill plug with an allen key (12mm). do you have a way to do it with the trans in place. only way i can see is with the allen key socket on a small breaker bar with a cheater on the breaker handle. what do you think ? thanks bob f
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:13 AM   #4
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

synthetic 75W-85 GL-4 is what the spec shows for this transmission.

Be very careful on that fill plug, making super sure that the tool is tight and won't round out the female hex.
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Old 05-08-2021, 10:43 AM   #5
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

I was going to have to fabricate a tool to fit in tight quarters so I waited until the transmission was out. It takes special manual transmission oil not atf. I just pulled the axles and caught the oil before removing the transmission. The fill plug is just as tight as the drain plug so make sure you can get both loose before draining the transmission. Personally I would wait until the car needs a clutch, at 190,000 miles you really are not going to gain anything if the transmission is still shifting correctly. I have both 12 and 14 mm GERMAN made allen sockets I bought over 30 years ago to work on Mercedes.
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Old 05-09-2021, 09:10 PM   #6
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

hi 02- would love to see that special tool you might have designed to remove that plug with the trans in the car. kind of ridiculous to have to remove a trans to access and remove the fill plug. inclined to let it go until clutch job time unless i can find a solution to remove the plug. trans does not appear to have any leaks or gear noise from no lube yet. harvard engineer who designed it should get the equivalent of the rotten tomato award given annually for the worst movies. do bet though that dealer mechanics have a trick to get this out quickly for only $1200. what think? bob f
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Old 05-10-2021, 05:11 PM   #7
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

That trans design was done by Saab so the engr was probably Royal Institute instead of Harvard, LOL.
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Old 05-11-2021, 09:41 AM   #8
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Default Re: return of the old transaxle (5 speed) fill plug removal trick

hello wild bill m- youre probably right about the royal institute. surprised too. was under the impression that saab was a smartly designed car not only for repairs but also for efficient long lived running. prof i had in college had one, think it was a 66. shaped like a teardrop. had a 3 cyl. two cycle engine and a column shifter with a 4 speed manual. had to mix 2 cycle oil with the gas. can still see him driving down the boulevard with a slight trail of blue oil smoke from the tail pipe when he shifted gears. agree the best way to avoid mishandling of drum brake parts is to check and compare both rear drum brakes for positioning . must also be careful to correctly reposition the adjuster fork. the old ford and dodge drums had spring loaded brake adjusters which took up slack and self adjusted on the star wheel when you slowly backed up and applied the brakes gently. problem was most didnt do this regularly and the parts in that mechanism rusted and stuck. luckily the designers anticipated this and put adjustment slots on the bottom of the backing to manually adjust that star wheel with the special tool. the L100 doesnt have the manual adjuster slots. who remembers those little rubber plugs you would always forget to put back in the slots or lose? regards bob f
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