LW-200 Won't Start

[bouds]

I recently changed two of the engine mounts on my LW-200, and the third mount happens to be under the battery/fusebox mount. Although this is somewhat irrelevant, one of the mounts we were given was the wrong one (just so happens to be the one under the fusebox). After all was put back together, the car would crank but would not start. I have checked every fuse, and they all have current. The spark plugs spark (took the coil/spark plug boot assembly off, put a spare set of sparks in and turned the ignition). The fuel injectors are receiving current (multimeter and paper clips... blew a fuse thank goodness for built-in spares, won't be doing that again). So from what I've read here on saturn fans is that the two remaining possible issues are the Crankshaft Position Sensor (how would changing engine mounts cause that to go?) or the ECU is in need of resetting. I've tried resetting the ECU via 2 means so far: 1- taking off the negative terminal, waiting some amount of time (tried several times, with different time intervals) and touching the positive terminal to the negative terminal. Though I took both terminals off the battery before doing so. I can't actually find the CPS, I've looked all around the starter to no avail. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

--EDIT--
Left out an important piece of information! The model year is 2003.

[fdryer]

When the engine mounts were changed, did you disconnect any wiring? Disconnect any ground wires between the engine and chassis? Go over what you did to be sure.

Air, fuel, and spark are needed to make an engine run. Good spark means the cps is working. What you haven't checked for is fuel and pressure at the fuel rail's test valve. With the ignition ON the fuel pump runs for 2-3 seconds then shuts off (for safety). You should be able to hear the faint hum/hiss sound of the fuel pump otherwise repeat the ignition cycle but press an ear to the tank or rear body panel to listen for the pump. Then locate the fuel test valve and remove the cap, cover loosely with a rag while depressing the valve stem expecting a spray of fuel. Spray means fuel and pressure are available to the injectors. No spray or a dribble would mean; pump fuse, pump relay, fuel filter, pump, pump ground connection (by the rear stop light wiring).

If the security indicator is ON during starting, the injectors are disabled; the factory Passlock theft deterrent system prevents the injectors from operating to stop the engine from running.

[bouds]

I removed the battery and the fusebox but did not disconnect any wiring from the fusebox. To be sure that the engine was grounded, I purchased a 4 gauge battery wire and secured it to the engine and body. The spark plugs did smell of gasoline, and while they were not very wet, it seemed as though gas was reaching them. Assuming the security indicator is the icon of a car with a lock over it, then yes that light is on. However, that light has been on since I got the car and I have not had any issues until now. I would suspect that this would be the issue however the fuel injectors are being given current. If it is possible for Passlock to disable the fuel injectors but still send current, please advise. I will try to locate the fuel test valve. If memory serves it should look like a large metal cylinder (about 2" in diameter) connected on both ends by a pipe, with a valve similar to a tire stint. Would that be correct?

[fdryer]

Seeing and smelling fuel on plugs indicate good fuel injection, perhaps flooding occurring from many false starting attempts. In these cases, blowing out excess fuel with plugs removed is easily done with a few seconds of the starter. Dry off the plugs and reinsert them for another try. The other way of clearing a flooded engine is to hold the pedal down to the floor while starting - clear flood mode with the engine computer detecting a fully opened throttle to shut of all injectors while the starter is running in hopes of leaning out a flooded condition to allow starting in a few seconds after a clear flood mode is tried.

If the security indicator remains ON all the time (not flashing) then the factory Passlock theft deterrent system is disabled for whatever reason caused it. It will stay ON to indicate a fault and not interfere with starting and running. This will be a separate issue to look at later, after getting the engine running.

When Passlock is enabled, the security indicator will flash during starting to indicate it disabled fuel injection to prevent a theft attempt. Seeing and smelling fuel would mean the injectors are working.

The fuel test valve is capped by a black plastic cap and removing it reveals the schrader valve, resembling a tire valve. Its on the fuel rail that feeds fuel to all the injectors.

[bouds]

Thanks! I tried emptying a flood condition that way before (thanks for that info too, I read it on another thread where someone else was having the same issue). I will try it again, do you have any specifics on how long I should keep the ignition cycle going with the open throttle? I also purchased a replacement CPS thinking that might be the cause of the issue, but I haven't replaced it yet because I could not find the original near the starter. Would I have to remove the starter to access it, or should I just return it since I have observed sparks from the plugs?

[fdryer]

The cps is hiding behind the starter so the starter must be removed to have access to it. When you see spark from any plug, the cps is working.

The cps' sole role is to supply timing signals to the ecm/pcm. Without these timing signals the engine computer is a door stop, period. When the engine turns over the cps detects crank movement and immediately generates precise timing signals that allows the ecm/pcm to operate; the fuel pump, ignition system for spark, and pulse the injectors. No cps output = no fuel pump, no spark, and no injector pulses.

[bouds]

I performed the open-throttle method of emptying the cylinders and tried to start again to no avail. The battery is also dying now unfortunately. Once I get a jump start I will give it another go. I hear the tick tick tick noise after trying to start which sounds like an indication that the fuel pump is working properly, though I could be wrong about that. In any case when it stops snowing I'll find the fuel test valve to be sure there is proper fuel pressure. As you mentioned, in case most tests have been done to ensure proper fuel and sparks are reaching the cylinders, what can I do to make sure the proper amount of air is reaching them?

[fdryer]

Heh-heh, you don't have any control on air ingestion other than controlling the throttle plate via the gas pedal. The engine turning over will suck in all the air that's needed while the electronics matches throttle position with whatever fuel is needed along with spark at the right time. As long as the air filter is relatively clean and free of strangling the engine of air flow, the engine will breathe correctly.

[mattachuz]

did you get fuel pressure at the valve?

[bouds]

Changed the fuel filter, turns out I wasn't getting enough fuel pressure (when I checked, I didn't know how far that fuel spray was supposed to go hah). That didn't solve the problem, just a much needed improvement for when I finally get it working. Since we have verified that the spark plugs are functioning it would seem the fuel injectors might not be getting the ground-pulse to make them function properly. How can I make sure there is proper grounding for the ground pulse? Also, is 12V the proper voltage to be going on the continuous positive going to the fuel injectors?

I should also mention that when given a stream of starter fluid the car will run - horribly, but it runs - but then ceases once the stream is terminated.

[fdryer]

With starter fluid allowing the engine to run and with 12v power to all injectors, means that the Passlock theft deterrent system has disabled fuel injection. The pcm supplies switched ground pulses to each injector to fire them. 12v is on each injector when ignition is turned ON, waiting for the pcm to switch each injector on with a ground pulse.

While this may seem a reversal of what I commented on earlier, the starter spray allowing the engine to run is an excellent idea to see if fuel or spark is missing. Obviously, fuel isn't being injected and injection pulses are controlled by the pcm. With Passlock ON, this turned from a (bcm) failed disabled condition to a failed enabled condition - injectors prevented from firing. This is a bcm failure that cannot be corrected or bypassed. Either a tow to GM for bcm replacement/programming including the remotes or a used bcm is relearned with a 30-minute procedure where the used bcm is married to the EFI system. Anyone can perform the 30-minute relearn procedure. Its been posted many times here. The used bcm retains its mileage and cannot be changed. If GM allows it, they can program the remotes to this bcm.

[bouds]

Thank you very much! I will go ahead and procure a BCM and go through the re-learn procedure. The question then is, what could have caused the Passlock to activate? All I did was change the engine mounts haha

[fdryer]

A random act of kindness, err, weirdness. If you search past threads in this forum you'll come across bcm failures going back to the early L-series without explanation. Poor quality control? Static sensitive? Aquarius in alignment with Oktoberfest? There has never been any explanation for bcm failures. They just fail. All random.