2.2 -> 2.4 swap

[pierrot]

Rob1992, given what you wrote in post 19 it looks like you're going to be okay through this and I'm glad!

2006 ion2, so it appears that the engine can be upgraded to deal with higher horsepower. Are there things which can be done to increase horse power to something near 180 to 200 without resorting to super- or turbo-charging the engine?

[Rob1992]

Yea apparently zzp has one making like 890 go and when I said I have a Chrysler 300 I meant it's my daily driver now till I get the ion fixed. I cant seem to find the cams for a 2.2 just the lsj does anyone have any part numbers or web site for cams for the 2.2? I don't want anything extreme just a upgrade over stock I like how these cars sound cammestand straight piped.

[Rob1992]

I'm not exactly sure on my cars power since its never been on a dyno but I figured it was like 170 to wheels since they are making 145 stock and i have a a header and 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back without a catliatlyic converter or resonator.

[2006 ion2]

I want to say eagle made cams for it, not sure, though. Mine makes around 200 and handles it on stock internals. Rods and pistons become an issue around 300hp (i would change them any time you supercharge it) and I think valve springs become an issue after 7k. rods and pistons for 200hp seems like a lot, but if you're going to Rev it hard with cams, it probably wouldn't hurt.

[2006 ion2]

Originally Posted by Rob1992

I'm not exactly sure on my cars power since its never been on a dyno but I figured it was like 170 to wheels since they are making 145 stock and i have a a header and 2.5 inch exhaust all the way back without a catliatlyic converter or resonator.

The exhaust might actually hurt your performance without a tune, that's wayyy too much exhaust for the engine. 2.25 is the most realistically for this engine. Anyway, I have a full exhaust, intake, and tune, and it goes like mad. If it weren't a dd, the 2.4 intake manifold would let it pull to 7k,but I value torque.

[Rob1992]

How much does a tune cost and what kind of intake do you have? Im gonna look for those cams.

[Rob1992]

Whoops I got ahead of myself and read to fast lol are there any modifications to put a 2.4 intake on?

[pierrot]

Originally Posted by 2006 ion2

I want to say eagle made cams for it, not sure, though. Mine makes around 200 and handles it on stock internals. Rods and pistons become an issue around 300hp (i would change them any time you supercharge it) and I think valve springs become an issue after 7k. rods and pistons for 200hp seems like a lot, but if you're going to Rev it hard with cams, it probably wouldn't hurt.

Very interesting! If I attempted an upgrade for power then I wouldn't be seeking anything above 200HP. I have no intention of removing the balance shafts, nor altering the intake, nor enlarging the exhaust system size. I'm a simple person and would do as little as necessary to increase HP as this car would continue to be a daily driver, and would not be taken out for racing or any potentially abusive driving. Since it would remain a daily driver here in CA I must maintain all of the original emission equipment as provided by the factory in order to pass a smog inspection.

To the best of your knowledge, would upgrading to these cams result in any negative impact upon the emissions system? Does this upgrade alter the idling characteristic of the engine? I know that this was typical of racing cam upgrades to various V8's of the past.

[2006 ion2]

I've never seen an honest review of the cams. I have all mild components, the exhaust is off a redline, the intake is a short warm intake, the tune is safe. Rotated engine mounts are a must with anything over stock to prevent wheel hop. The redline exhaust is good for at least 220hp, but you can dd it. Also, when I press the loud pedal it gives a nice grunt

[Rob1992]

So I talked to a guy at comp cams they have stage 2 cams for 507 should I upgrade the valve springs and lifters to?

[2006 ion2]

Imo, if it's apart, and you're building the rest of it, finish the build. Though, if you aren't going to bulks it to Rev harder than 6500, you shouldn't need springs.

[Rob1992]

Well the cams and springs are going in the new motor I'm gonna keep the old one and slowly build it. My cat redlines at right at 6500 so should be ok on the springs since im getting cams I need a tune to right? If so ill get them to delete the rear o2 sensor to get rid of my check engine light

[2006 ion2]

Yes, you need a tune. Hptuners is tge only option.

[Rob1992]

Well I finally got the motor replaced and put in but i had to charge the battery and when I go to hook it up the starter trys to start without the key on or in the ignition any idea what it could be?

[fdryer]

If starter wiring is correct, it's possible for the pcm to incorrectly enable starting - a software glitch. Electronics controls the starting circuit. Check for blown fuses and disconnect battery negative for a minute then reconnect it and follow up.

Is there a remote start installed on this car?

[Rob1992]

I got it figured out had a ground in the wrong place and i wish it had remote start but it's a 5 speed don't wanna take that chance of it running through my garage or something lol.

[Rob1992]

I've been looking around for a cold air intake for mine
its an 07 ion 2.2 5 speed is there any out there? I can't find any i think would work.

[OverkillSaturn]

I have an 07 Saturn ion and I paid $1800 for it my oil pressure sensor plug blew out going down the highway so I used my friends coder and force activated limp mode but when I got it home my engine seized up I found that the crank was badly damaged and spun my #4 rod bearing and was wondering if I can swap to the supercharged 2.0 with no problems is it possible with the 2.2l wire harness

[fdryer]

In one word, NO. What very few know about the difference between a normally aspirated EFI engine and a turbo or super charged engine isn't so much the mechanical add-on of turbo or super charger but the electronics needed to allow engines running at a vacuum (normally aspirated or negative pressure) to being blown (positive boost pressure) is a huge undertaking. The wiring harness from the 2.0 boosted engine and ecm or pcm must be transplanted otherwise you are guaranteed of blowing the engine. At the least, the moment the engine is boosted, it goes lean immediately because two key items are missing, the ecm/pcm and wiring that may be slightly different. Different enough to guarantee engine damage without a complete transplant.

Every engine not having boost uses a 1-bar map sensor in EFI systems. Boosted engines use either a 2-bar or 3-bar map sensor. These map sensors monitor the intake manifold pressures. Without boost, intake manifolds are either at atmospheric pressure (engine off) or at various negative pressures. The correct term is vacuum. A running engine is always sucking air and always measures in vacuum values (for example 18in hg@idle rpm). If you do not understand basic physics, either accept it or search how engines operate and the difference between normally aspirated and boost relative to intake manifold pressures. All EFI boosted engines use a 2-bar or 3-bar map sensor. From atmospheric (engine off) to vacuum (idle and above until boost comes on), the moment boost generates positive air pressure the map sensor detects positive air pressure and informs the ecm/pcm. The factory tuned ecm/pcm will enrich fuel mixtures to prevent lean mixtures that can melt pistons quickly. A plain ecm that isn't tuned cannot be used even when the 2.0L engine already has the 2-bar/3-bar sensor. If the ecm/pcm isn't tuned from the factory to use the signals, the pcm simply applies normal fuel. In this case, the extra air being forced into each cylinder isn't given more fuel from the stock ecm/pcm resulting in an immediate lean situation that quickly overheats each cylinder. It would take a few seconds at boost for the engine to melt while overheating. This occurs to anyone not willing to learn the nuances of how engines work and what it takes to make engines run with boost. There's more to engine boosting than simply slapping on a super or turbo charger. With EFI systems, the ecm/pcm must be tuned according to anticipated boost pressures, the correct map sensor is used and mechanical compression lowered (sometimes) to avoid knock/detonation. Premium fuel may be another requirement to avoid pre ignition from higher compression.