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Old 09-18-2022, 10:31 AM   #21
Roofcock
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1997 SL2
Default Re: Loss of acceleration after a 5 mile drive

Billr, the soonest I can get the gasket is Wednesday. My son needs the car for work so he doesn't lose his job. Today is the first time I will get a chance to look at it and I will try the plug first. If that isn't it I will have to go after the input shaft nut and hope for the best. While I don't think it's a simple job it's definitely doable. The gasket not being readily available is a bit of a pain as well. If it's electrical does that mean valve body or???. I am not familiar with this transmission except what I am learning from you and this forum. I greatly appreciate your help.
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if you don't have time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to do it again?
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Old 09-18-2022, 11:48 AM   #22
billr
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Default Re: Loss of acceleration after a 5 mile drive

Yes, if disconnecting the top cable restores normal "limp mode", then he problem will be in the VB or something electrical. Lots of stuff to check. You really want it to be the ISN...

You will need a somewhat special socket-wrench for that ISN. It has to be 12-point 23mm socket. The "special" requirement is that it must be very thin-walled, the first 1/2" must be no more than 1.20" OD. Most of us just turn or grind or file or sand down the nose of the thinnest standard socket we can easily find; but that can take some time, depending on what tools/skills you have.

I already mentioned the cover has to come out straight, for about 10", to avoid bending those tubes. I hinted at, but did not explain that his is difficult to do. The suspension/brake is in the way and has to be "disturbed". Some disconnect the strut from the knuckle, some disconnect the lower ball-joint, some take all that stuff out. It has been quite a while since I had to ISN work, but after recently doing two manual clutches, needing similar access, I suggest disconnecting the strut from the knuckle. You may get by removing nothing else in the suspension. Mark the strut and knuckle so you can put them back without needing a wheel alignment. Besides, that strut/knuckle relationship only affects camber, and camber has little affect on most driving. You will never notice if camber is a bit off of "perfect".

Another problem is that the cover, and the upper screws for it, are behind the frame. I found I had to loosen both the front and rear cradle screws so the trans could be lowered enough for the cover to slip by the frame. There is easy access to those cradle/frame screws, but they are horribly tight!. You will want a 6-point 1/2"-drive socket, 18mm as I recall, and will probably need a 3-4 foot cheater bar for leverage. Worse yet, the weld-nuts inside the frame may break loose. No big deal in the rear, you can get a conventional nut in there, but the front nut inside the frame has little-to-no access. You have to get creative there. I have no rust, if you do your experience nay be even worse than just "horribly tight.

Point to all this is that I would not count on doing this on a specific schedule, if you want it done right. There are too many "gotchas". Figure out an altenate way to get to work for a few days.
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