Rebuild - 1995 (SC2) - L4 1.9L MFI DOHC (LL0)

[anmasher]

For those who haven't seen the other thread, I just got a 1995 SC2 Manual Transmission with a bad engine (and a nice interior) and am now beginning to rebuild that engine.

I'm using these threads as guides.

ehunter rebuild thread

cboss rebuild thread

For the engine removal, I am following the Low Saturn method.

[SabercatPuck]

This one is shaping up to be decent too. It is currently a work in progress though, but progressing nicely
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=186696

[anmasher]

And now for the more fun stuff, here's where we are with the engine removal. Just like ehunter I am somewhat stuck at the axle removal, but that should be done tomorrow. I may have to re-schedule having the engine out on Friday...

Below is a re-typed copy of Low Saturn's engine removal. Highlighted black parts are completed.

-Put the car on jack stands.
-Remove wheels.
-Remove air dam assembly.
-Drain fluids (oil, transmission and coolant).
-Remove driver and passenger side splash shields.
-Remove axles.
-Remove exhaust downpipe.
-Remove powertrain stiffening bracket.
-Remove flywheel/flex plate dust shield.
-For automatic transmissions, remove the four flex plate to torque converter balls.
-Loosen but do not remove front and rear lower transmission to block bolts
-Remove intake tubing.
-Remove air box to frame rail bolt.
-Remove battery hold down, battery and battery tray/air box.
-Remove plastic fasteners securing drivers side fender liner to fender and front fascia.
-1991-1999's, disconnect electrical connectors on PCM and in-line body harness.
-Pull connectors through grommet In frame.
-Where the harness runs along the top of the fender rail, carefully slice the electrical tape open to free the harness from the "T" shaped tabs.
-open bottom of under hood fuse box from inside the fender opening and using a 7mm socket, disconnect the engine harness electrical connector.
-Route engine harness into engine compartment.
-Disconnect engine harness grounds
-Loosen, but do not remove two upper transmission to block bolts
-Remove upper radiator hose.
-Disconnect lower radiator hose from block.
-Disconnect reservoir to block hose at the block.
-Remove serpentine belt.
-Remove cooling fan.
-Disconnect O₂ sensor electrical connector.
-Disconnect A/C compressor electrical connector if equipped.
-Remove three bolts securing the back of the A/C compressor to A/C bracket.
-Disconnect positive cable from underhood fuse box and route to he back of the engine.
-Disconnect fuel line(s) from fuel rail.
-Remove crank pulley (this is to gain clearance when lifting the engine out).
-Remove throttle body (this is to keep from damaging TPS and IAC when lifting the engine out)
-Pull throttle cable through intake runners and let hang behind and below the engine.
-Disconnect shift cables(s) and route behind and below the engine.
-Support the engine with a block under the oil pan and remove the upper mount, lower dogbone (use the tack to raise and lower that side of the engine to gain access).
-Remove the "U" shaped lower mount bracket from the block (this is to gain clearance when lifting the engine out).
-lower engine and place block under transmission for support.
-Remove upper dogbone mount and lower transmission mount. (Use the jack to raise and lower that side of the engine/transmission to gain access).
-lower engine/transmission.
-Reinstall wheels and lower car back into the ground.
-Remove hood.
-Attach engine hoist load leveler to engine.
-Attach engine hoist to load leveler.
-Raise engine until transmission contacts the frame rail. Then tilt engine until the transmission contacts the cradle. Repeat this process a few times until you have easy access to two remaining A/C compressor bolts and power steering pump bolts.
-Free A/C compressor from its brackets and lay over the front drivers side of the car. Use towels to keep from scratching the car.
-Free power steering pump from its mounting bracket and route behind and below the engine.
-Reach behind engine and disconnect vacuum line going from the CCP solenoid to the charcoal canister.
-Continue to lift and tilt the engine as before until the engine is free of any obstructions. Always watch out for fuel lines, cables, wires and A/C lines while lifting.
-Once the engine is free, level it back out and pull it over the front of the car. This is where having the car back on the ground makes it easier and safer. Some hoists won't go high enough to clear the front of the car with the car on jack stands.
At this point you can easily remove the transmission and/or wiring harness from the engine.

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by SabercatPuck

This one is shaping up to be decent too. It is currently a work in progress though, but progressing nicely
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=186696

I saw that one too. Interesting stuff a little bit into it:
Rebuilding Saturn Engines: Engine Builder

I assume there are no hidden oil passages in the head (DOHC), and only in the block? I wonder how to clean that given that I don't really have access to any kind of hot tanking stuff mentioned in most threads - planning on doing all the machine work here.

[OldNuc]

It is critical to locate a competent machine shop. If you do not then the rebuild will fail. There are tasks that you can not perform with any degree of accuracy unless you have a machine shop in your garage.

There are decisions to be made while disassembling and making haste will be wasting $$.

This is a straight forward rebuild. The issue here was the machine shop.
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=170045

All aluminum cleaning is done by shipping off to your choice of shop. The head rebuilding is also shop work. Block measuring and boring/honing is shop work.

Foul up the rebore or hone job and you have an oil burner.
Engine cylinder finishing
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=170383 Go here and follow the links in post #14. Some light reading on pistons/rings/cylinders/ cylinder finish.

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

It is critical to locate a competent machine shop. If you do not then the rebuild will fail. There are tasks that you can not perform with any degree of accuracy unless you have a machine shop in your garage.

Fortunately, my uncle is a very experienced machinist with a good setup in his garage.

There are decisions to be maid while disassembling and making haste will be wasting $$.

I will post pictures and measurements once I get to that point, but there won't be any hurry on this project if something does get held up.

All aluminum cleaning is done by shipping off to your choice of shop. The head rebuilding is also shop work. Block measuring and boring/honing is shop work.

The cleaning is something I'm worried about. If boring and honing are indeed needed, both cleaning and boring/honing may have to be sent off. The measuring we can do as well as head rebuilding. I'm hoping the cylinders will be in good shape and not need anything - of course that never actually happens.

Foul up the rebore or hone job and you have an oil burner.
Engine cylinder finishing
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=170383 Go here and follow the links in post #14. Some light reading on pistons/rings/cylinders/ cylinder finish.

Good reading. I am convinced that the honing process is well outside of my ability (skills+tools). Pretty sure we will be sending that out, if it's needed.

For the record, OldNuc, I don't want to sound like some punk who thinks he can do everything in the rebuild by himself only to wonder why it fails later. However, measurements and most machine work we can do. Honing and cleaning... not so much.

[anmasher]

Didn't get much done today. Got the exhaust unbolted and worked on the axles more. They'll be off tomorrow. I was hesitant about removing the lower thing (tie rod?) in case it was holding the strut at all. It seems clear that the axle is not coming off while that is attached, and the ehunter thread confirms this - so they shall be removed tomorrow.

For anyone else who attempts this here are some pointers. (pictures copied from ehunter thread) Do not puncture/damage any of the boots!

If you have help, they can firmly apply the brakes while you remove the axle nut (29mm deep-well socket, preferably with a cheater/breaker bar). Also:

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Put a shot of PB Blaster on the axle nut and clean the exposed threads as it is a self locking nut and it is possible to trash the threads when removing it.

You will need to detach the 17mm castle nut and pin on "A". As well as the 18mm castle nut and pin on "B". Having a hammer and a block of wood helps get all of these apart. Knock'er Loose/PB Blaster is almost essential for taking the axles off.

I will post more once they are off tomorrow.

BTW - the small boots on "A" and "B" are somewhat cracked, should they be replaced? (I can provide pics tomorrow)

[OldNuc]

The dimensional specifications are out to 0.0001" so you need a bore gauge that will read that. Snap gauges and a micrometer will not catch it. You can get good enough data to decide which way to go but the actual boring and finishing is a shop job. As to head work this is an overhead cam engine and stem projection is a big deal so if you do your own valve job keep on top of stem projection. Special tooling is required to remove valve springs as there is no room and if you scratch the lifter bore you have oil problems.

The shop has the hot tank and the equipment to pressure clean the oil system. You send bare aluminum off to be cleaned, block, front cover, oil pump cover, and intake. If you are rebuilding the head after it is stripped bare it goes off to the tank as well.

Block and head have to be decked as well for best results.

Originally Posted by anmasher

Fortunately, my uncle is a very experienced machinist with a good setup in his garage.


I will post pictures and measurements once I get to that point, but there won't be any hurry on this project if something does get held up.


The cleaning is something I'm worried about. If boring and honing are indeed needed, both cleaning and boring/honing may have to be sent off. The measuring we can do as well as head rebuilding. I'm hoping the cylinders will be in good shape and not need anything - of course that never actually happens.


Good reading. I am convinced that the honing process is well outside of my ability (skills+tools). Pretty sure we will be sending that out, if it's needed.

For the record, OldNuc, I don't want to sound like some punk who thinks he can do everything in the rebuild by himself only to wonder why it fails later. However, measurements and most machine work we can do. Honing and cleaning... not so much.

[OldNuc]

Harbor Freight sells a tool for popping the lower ball joint, good to have. Tie rod end comes out first and there is a low cost tool for popping them. You attach the tool, apply pressure on the stud and then whack the side of the joint with a 10-12oz hammer, they pop right apart. The tie rod end and lower ball are popped loose before pulling the axle out of the hub. Do not apply force, either push or pull on one end of the shaft to dislodge the other end as the boot will lend up torn.

http://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod...ller-1752.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...tor-99849.html

This works for shocking the taper loose. http://www.harborfreight.com/8-oz-st...mer-95930.html

[taatman]

You forgot to add my thread! Not a lot of technical data, but it goes into detail of how the rebuild is going.

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=187281

Yes, its a 95 SC2 DOHC motor too!

[anmasher]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

Harbor Freight sells a tool for popping the lower ball joint, good to have. Tie rod end comes out first and there is a low cost tool for popping them.

I have a tool for the lower joint, if I can find it. Too late on the other one... I, uh, improvised.

You attach the tool, apply pressure on the stud and then whack the side of the joint with a 10-12oz hammer, they pop right apart. The tie rod end and lower ball are popped loose before pulling the axle out of the hub. Do not apply force, either push or pull on one end of the shaft to dislodge the other end as the boot will lend up torn.

That held me up from really getting anything done today. Thankfully I haven't broken anything down there yet.
Thanks for the advice! Maybe be the end of the weekend the engine and transmission will be out; I am very curious to get a good look inside - and post some pictures.

@taatman,
Sorry, I just included the two that I was reading at the time. Maybe later I can get a mod to add some stuff to the OP.

[OldNuc]

You also have to remove and disassemble and clean all the lifters.

All steps in pictures.
DOHC (1995)
https://picasaweb.google.com/1159762...L6UoammvrKEsAE

[anmasher]

Got a lot done today, engine will - should - be out tomorrow.

Had some trouble with a lot of insanely tight bolts. One of the A/C bracket bolts started rounding (the lovely one on the bottom of course), so that's going to wait until the engine is slightly elevated to get removed. The radiator fan is staying in also, but shielded with a board.
I have to remove the starter motor wires, and the oil and knock sensors from the back, then the clutch slave cylinder (I think that's the term). The other item I'm having trouble finding is this:
-Remove flywheel/flex plate dust shield. I read something about it having 7mm bolts holding it in - that should make it an easy find.

After those I think everything will be out; unless there are other sensors hiding beside/behind the engine.

By the way, that picture album is just golden!

[OldNuc]

The fan and radiator both should come out and protect the condenser with a board. It will be worth the effort. You can get at the condenser bolts through the front opening. Set the a/c compressor on the radiator support and tie wrap in place, resist as much hose bending as you can.

To remove steel fasteners that are threaded into aluminum take a flat nosed punch and bash them on their head a good 5 or 6 swats with that 8-10oz hammer. It will help.


Put all bolts into individual component plastic bags and label them as you take it apart. Keep the power steering pump brackets with their bolts. You will not remember how it all goes back together.

Remove the engine to transmission lower plate and the dust shield will be obvious. If you have a manual skip this step if pulling both engine and transmission as a unit.

[anmasher]

The engine/transmission is now out!

Originally Posted by OldNuc

The fan and radiator both should come out and protect the condenser with a board. It will be worth the effort. You can get at the condenser bolts through the front opening. Set the a/c compressor on the radiator support and tie wrap in place, resist as much hose bending as you can.

This was good advice. Since we were doing this with a chain hoist and reinforced rafters (no load lever, engine puller, etc.) there is no way it would've come out without doing massive damage.

To remove steel fasteners that are threaded into aluminum take a flat nosed punch and bash them on their head a good 5 or 6 swats with that 8-10oz hammer. It will help.

That helped a lot, I guess the steel tends to gald to the aluminum. Never worked on an aluminum block before, but never saw bolts stick like this before either.

Put all bolts into individual component plastic bags and label them as you take it apart. Keep the power steering pump brackets with their bolts. You will not remember how it all goes back together.

I've used about 30 sandwich bags so far; hoping it will go back together more easily!

A couple of notes so far. There was a hose from (presumably) the heater core to the block in the back - this didn't appear to be mentioned in the Low Saturn guide (great guide anyway). And the wiring harness definitely should be removed the Low Saturn way instead of sensor-by-sensor.

Finally, I might be going to look at another Saturn tomorrow. A 1999 SL1 supposedly with only a blown headgasket (could be much worse of course) for very cheap. If it's good, then a weekend of head gasket replacing will net a nice amount of $$$ for this one.

[OldNuc]

There is indeed a hose from the manifold to the heater, it has to come off. There is very little room to get the engine out of the car and any mistake will be expensive.

[anmasher]

Now the transmission is separated. I'm debating welding or replacing the diff pin since it's out - worth the trouble or no?

Intake and exhaust manifolds are off and tomorrow the fun stuff comes off.

Quick question on the intake. It's very dirty which seems normal enough to me (EGR maybe?), but I've also heard that it is not normal and means the intake valves aren't sealing. Any opinions on this?

[anmasher]

Since the head is probably coming off this evening, I do have a question regarding that. I read - I think OldNuc in the cboss thread - that the cams need to be in the set position for removal. Is there anything more to it, or just lock them and go?
I appreciate all the help!

[OldNuc]

--Before head removal rotate crank keyway to 3:00 position.
--Remove tensioner and guides and timing chain.
--loosen each head bolt in reverse of tightening order no more than 1 flat each per bolt until all bolts are lose.

Head torquing sequence
intake side
8-4-1-5-9
7-3-2-6-10
exhaust side

Hold cam with an open end wrench on the flats provided and remove the center bolt and sprocket. You can do this either before or after removing head but it is considerably easier to do this before removal. When removing cams loosen each journal cap bolt about 1 turn each until all bolts are loose. If the chain is off and crank keyway positioned correctly just let the cam turn to the minimum valve spring position for each cam before removing journal caps.

[anmasher]

Wow, glad I asked. Thank you!