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#1 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 86
1998 SL2
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the car- 2000 sL1 with manual windows
the task- rewire front drivers door speaker the barrier- dont know how to remove window crank please provide instructions
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Robin 1998 SL2 |
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#2 |
Super Member
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How-To Library, take the forum jump at the bottom of this page Once there look in the richpin DIY video listing for the how to. You can remove the clip with a light towel, sometimes but the real tool is cheap and works.
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#3 |
Member
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 86
1998 SL2
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found it
thanks
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Robin 1998 SL2 |
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#4 |
Senior Member
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I have some dentist picks that I used to yank that clip out.
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#5 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 35
1996 SL2
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(sorry to poke an old thread, but it's applicable)
Does anyone have specs on that clip removal tool? I have some sheet alum. and some snips, but It'd be nice to have the dimensions rather than doing it seat-of-the-pants style. It doesn't want to be wiggle out by a rag, and I hate the thought of paying for a tool that's exclusively for removing a GM window crank. Thanks! |
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#6 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 35
1996 SL2
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Never mind... got the clip off with an awesome little probe tool I had sitting around. Now to figure out where the damn thing landed... fml.
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#7 |
Super Member
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That is why you use the special tool. It captures the clip so it does not fly away. When the clip is pried off of the crank then it immediately enters a parallel universe. They sell them at the parts store though.
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#8 |
Super Member
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After years of screwing around with a couple of flat tip screw drivers to get the evil clip out I found the towel/rag trick to be awesome. If you get it wrapped around the clip it catches it so you can find it again too.
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#9 |
Super Member
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When I had a '72 Nova (shows you how long GM has kept this infuriating design around), I took a steel barbecue skewer -- they're very stiff steel -- and bent the last 1/8" or so of it 90 degrees. Did the job perfectly, without sending the clip into the twilight zone.
Still, all this trouble just because GM has some inexplicable aversion to an exposed screw head on the crank axle. All the Chrysler products had a simple phillips or allen head screw; IIRC, my wife's old Ford pickup did too. I don't see (at least not for this reason) millions of Ford/Chrysler owners scarred for life for having to witness the extreme eyesore of a visible screw head... |
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#10 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 35
1996 SL2
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I found the clip, luckily it flew onto the floorboard!
My '85 Skylark had the same ****, but my uncle saved all the oddball tools it needed and gave them to me with the car, among them was the window crank tool. I still have it, but it's miles away right now. I'd WAY rather just have a goddamn screw... It's a car, it's not like I'm surprised to see that parts actually have to be fastened somehow. Thanks, GM! |
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#11 |
Super Member
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GM has used that exact same system for a very long time. From before WW-2 for sure.
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#12 |
Member
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this is an old thread, but i feel i have a worthy necrobump...
i was confronted with this problem today while disassembling my recently purchased parts car. i read through this thread and decided that a paint can tool would be absolutely perfect for the task. sure enough, it worked perfectly with almost no effort on the first try! if you're not sure what i'm referring to, here's an image for reference: ![]() the truly excellent thing about this particular tool is that they're available for a whopping $0.00 at your local home depot (and probably many other hardware stores) in the paint section! i've even grabbed a few at once before and none of the employees had the slightest issue. so if you don't feel like spending a dime, sacrificing a skewer, or tugging at your window cranks with a rag, know that you have yet another completely free option. ![]()
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rings-1996 sl2 ~215k mi phoebe-1995 sl1 ~250k mi janus-2000 sohc2 ~190k mi tethys-1994 sw2 ~302k mi rip mimas-wrecked 1996 sw1-trailer pandora-1999 sc2 dione-1998 sw2 penny [iapetus]-1997 sw2 |
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#13 |
Super Member
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There is an official tool for removing that clip that works if you happen to have one.
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#14 | |
Member
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![]() Quote:
![]() my point is, i don't like spending money on tools that i can get for free, and the paint can tool works amazingly well... i just used it to replace phoebe's driver seat window crank and it worked with minimal effort that time as well! this is one case where i actively recommend that you just get a paint can tool instead of wasting money on a proprietary piece of stamped metal that does exactly the same thing in a slightly different way.
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rings-1996 sl2 ~215k mi phoebe-1995 sl1 ~250k mi janus-2000 sohc2 ~190k mi tethys-1994 sw2 ~302k mi rip mimas-wrecked 1996 sw1-trailer pandora-1999 sc2 dione-1998 sw2 penny [iapetus]-1997 sw2 |
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#15 | |
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 76
1996 SL2
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ultravioletnk, "free.99" is a great price for a tool that does the job. Thanks for the tip! |
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#16 | |
Member
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rings-1996 sl2 ~215k mi phoebe-1995 sl1 ~250k mi janus-2000 sohc2 ~190k mi tethys-1994 sw2 ~302k mi rip mimas-wrecked 1996 sw1-trailer pandora-1999 sc2 dione-1998 sw2 penny [iapetus]-1997 sw2 |
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#17 |
Master Member
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I've always found the job is doable with standard tools although with a fair amount of cursing required.
-Robert |
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#18 |
Member
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 76
1996 SL2
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