Yup, my '93 Saturn Sc1 is up for sale...

[hunt4steve]

well......I've tried several times to post my car in the Classified Section. Each time I click the submit button, the page resets and all of my data is gone...wonderful.....so, i'm throwing it out to you all to see what you all think.

Reason for selling: I have a 2001 Corolla that is larger inside (I'm about 230lbs), is an Automatic, has more HP for towing, and does pretty good on commuting.... This is what I was using the Saturn for.

Asking price: $3500

Location: 87508

Things that need to be addressed:
Windshield needs to be replaced
Windshield wipers should be replaced
Tires need to be replaced
COLD Air idle needs to be worked out before winter comes again. I thought I had the Erratic idle fixed, but it came back with the cold weather. I stopped driving it over the winter, and drove my wife's Corolla, which is now my car. I need to state that during the summer, the idle is perfectly fine.

Things that could be made better:
Interior, such as the doors and dash are a little hokie (yeah, its a word, I looked it up), but it's all functional and works better than stock.
ABS is not working - Despite replaced sensors and computer
Interior Dash (near windshield) missing, due to severe cracking, currently covered with Dash mat.

current mileage ~30k miles on the Engine and Tranny, about 220 on the body.

You all have seen me work on this car through the last few years. It's all been documented here, so i'm hiding nothing. If you are a series buyer, I'll hook up a GoPro camera and record the car starting, driving, etc.

Here are some important links pertaining to the car:

My webpage pertaining to the car
https://sites.google.com/site/hunt4steve/saturn

My Photobucket page, with lots of pictures pertaining to the car
http://s950.photobucket.com/user/hun...?sort=3&page=1

Engine Rebuild
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190916

Transmission Rebuild
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190919

Brake Caliper Rebuild
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190955

Front Wheel Bearings
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190926

Intermediate Axle Shaft Bearing (Carrier Bearing)
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=190924

There is over $6k dollars in parts on the car. That doesn't include the parts that are NOT on the car. For example, I have a complete ABS pump, spare sensors, extra computer and engine computer, coils, Fuel pump and lots of EGR related parts.

As you'll see there are lots, and lots of parts that will go with the car, so this is a killer deal if you want to part the car out. Personally, I don't have the time to do that, nor the space.


Here are some images of the part listing:

[Dennyj1992]

Hate to bust your balls here, but even with the engine and transmission work, I wouldn't price it at $3,500. That seems a wee bit too high there. I see you have a lot of parts into it, but much of that is just every day wear and tear maintenance too.

A 1998 or 2000 model with 50,000 miles on the original engine/tranny might be worth $3,500-$4,000.

Anyway to fix the clear coating peeling, before selling?

Edit: Nevermind, lol. I assumed you had just the car, and were selling it after small maintenance jobs. I need to quit doing that...

Carry on!

[SL19302]

3,500 is a lot for a 93 Saturn, Even with all the mechanical work done, That's why they call it a labor of love, I paid 2,500 for my 2000 SW2 and Wagons are the holy grail with the S-Series.

[Dennyj1992]

Originally Posted by SL19302

3,500 is a lot for a 93 Saturn, Even with all the mechanical work done, That's why they call it a labor of love, I paid 2,500 for my 2000 SW2 and Wagons are the holy grail with the S-Series.

Yah, this is kind of what I was poking at.

[jesse8931]

The paint is shot abs doesn't work needs windshield and you want 3500.....

[jhonky]

That's a 1200 dollar car

[blackbeard]

This car is LEGENDARY to me. Almost every fix and bit of info I needed for my SC1 was recieved from the posts about this car.
If I were to buy this it would be like having twins- two 1993 SC1's with peeling clearcoat
Even though you have put a TON of work into this car and I trust every bit of it, I would still have a hard time coughing up $3500 for an old Saturn that isn't mint.
I would shoot for around $2500, then see if any offers come up.
I hate to see it leave the hands of Hunt4Steve though...

[DawnR]

I bought my 97 SW2 for $1900 with around 150,000. Texas vehicle with zero rust in rockers. Very well maintained by another Saturn fan.

I bought my 01 SC2 for $3100 with 150,000 miles on it. I spent TOO much for this car. It was not maintained as well as advertised. I have put quite a bit into it thus far. Disappointing for me.

I speak for myself that I would never ever buy a used vehicle that had been used for any type of towing of anything.

[Dennyj1992]

Originally Posted by DawnR

I bought my 97 SW2 for $1900 with around 150,000. Texas vehicle with zero rust in rockers. Very well maintained by another Saturn fan.

I bought my 01 SC2 for $3100 with 150,000 miles on it. I spent TOO much for this car. It was not maintained as well as advertised. I have put quite a bit into it thus far. Disappointing for me.

I speak for myself that I would never ever buy a used vehicle that had been used for any type of towing of anything.

That 97, not to bad of a deal. It's always a good bet to buy one of these S cars from another board member too. Saturn S cars don't rust because of the polymer panels. You only need to worry about the cradle/under body frame.

Yes, I would agree you over payed for that 01. I bought myself an 02 SC2 a few months back with 175,000 miles for $1,400. I have since then put over a grand into maintenance. I don't think I'll end up putting over $3,000 total over the next year or two. I hope not to anyways.

[bumpdraft]

Everything's been replaced. Except for a few things, it is essentially "new" and has not a flake of rust anywhere.

For that $3500, you would probably get 5 years of "oil changes only" carefree driving.

Although, what was towed and where it was towed to might set some at ease...

[hunt4steve]

Lots of interesting comments here......

The reason I'm asking $3500 is because of the "Parts" that have gone into the car. Note, there is no mention of the "Labor" charges....

The Labor charges alone to rebuild a broken transmission would come close to the value of an existing Saturn. I've already taken the time to prevent that issue with Heavy Duty parts....

For example, the transmission has been redone with a heavy-duty McMaster Roll-pin.


Fixing this notoriously weak point in these Saturn Transmissions alone is worth the extra asking money. This is a very well known weak point, and would save anybody the headache of having to swap out another transmission once the original tranny blows out the Differential Center Pin through the side of the Tranny housing. Along with that, new gears, bearings and Synchros round out the package.

Then, as the Add indicates, there is a WHOLE host of upgrades in parts alone that put the value way over the asking price.

People act like I'm selling a "stock" car with 22~k miles on it, and should be asking "stock car" value. Sure, if the tranny and engine were not "rebuilt", then yeah, I should be asking a much lower price. How about the complete rebuild of the brakes, the new wheel bearings, the new drive shafts, drive shaft carrier bearing, the new motor mount, new battery.

I can see that most people here, just like everywhere else, want something for free. So, I should sell the car at a price of a stock car, with a weak transmission, weak seals and bearings, old fading brakes, and stock stereo....

Essentially, that would mean I'm giving it away to somebody, who would latter brag that they got a great deal. Hell, at this price it's a great deal.

Somehow I thought that Automotive enthusiasts who would "know better", such as the weak transmission Roll Pin, would understand the value of the work that goes into rebuilding something like this, let along the labor. Yeah, as somebody noted earlier, its a labor of love. That is why I've NOT included anything about the Labor. The price reflects the parts alone.

But, I digress, It was silly of me to think that most people on an automotive forum would understand that rebuilding a transmission or engine it NOT an easy process. I suppose most folks would rather just blow out the current tranny or engine, look at it and wonder what happend, then go get another one from a salvage yard, just to see that one blow out later on, and then wonder what happened, and go get another one......

oh well, to bad Charlie locked out the editing....I'd just delete the entire thing and move on.

[OldNuc]

Originally Posted by bumpdraft

Everything's been replaced. Except for a few things, it is essentially "new" and has not a flake of rust anywhere.

For that $3500, you would probably get 5 years of "oil changes only" carefree driving.

Although, what was towed and where it was towed to might set some at ease...

Where and what is covered in several Hunt4Steve threads. If you like the looks of the early body and want a trouble free gas saver car then this is a very good deal. The amount of $$ spent on parts alone is large and quality labor is almost priceless.

[Pitcher]

I hear ya hunt4steve.....

EVERY time I sell a very well maintained vehicle I constantly get it thrown back at me that all the maintenance does not raise the value much, it just supports the market value.

Just like when I went to sell my last house, I did a TON of upgrades, stamped & stained concrete full front porch, huge firepit, new lifetime warranty roof, new siding, on & on!! The all the Realtors looked at me and said, that's nice, but "it'll still list around market value... no matter if you did those or not". "It just supports the market price & may sell sooner." I kid you not.


People LOVE to buy things from me..... and they sell right away.

[hunt4steve]

Good point on the "what was towed".

Since I don't have truck, I setup my 300lb HF trailer, with a 280Lb bike, and a few other camping gear items.

This is what was towed. I've driven to Silverton Colorado, and down to Las Cruces, no more than once a year in the two years I've owned it. So, no significant wear on the new clutch.




This was the reason for getting the H & R Sport springs. I wanted to stiffen up the suspension to handle the tongue weight. The factory suspension did the job ok, but I like to error on the side of caution.


I don't have an RV, so I never towed IT anywhere.

[alordofchaos]

Originally Posted by bumpdraft

Everything's been replaced. Except for a few things, it is essentially "new" and has not a flake of rust anywhere.

For that $3500, you would probably get 5 years of "oil changes only" carefree driving.

+1

As the owner of an $800 Saturn and a $400 Saturn, and a seriously cheap person, I think that car is a good deal

Think about what you would pay for a completely rebuilt engine, and think about what you would pay for a rebuilt trans.

For that price, you get a rebuilt engine and a rebuilt (better than new) trans, and you also get the car. Few hundred bucks and some visits to the JY, you can make it pretty again.

I agree, if there was less history/documentation of that car, would be worth a lot less.

[OldNuc]

A suggestion has been made that the hunting cold idle could be leaking throttle shafts.

There are some AF ratio transition points in the warm up process that can shift back and forth due to the temperature shifting back and forth across the transition setpoint, this is not where you want he car to idle.

[hunt4steve]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

A suggestion has been made that the hunting cold idle could be leaking throttle shafts.

There are some AF ratio transition points in the warm up process that can shift back and forth due to the temperature shifting back and forth across the transition setpoint, this is not where you want he car to idle.

I like it! I have two additional Throttle Bodies that are waiting for rebuilds and installs. I'll give one a good cleaning and get it installed.

[OldNuc]

There are some words in the compiled 91-94 FSM relating to setting idle speed in the early TBI cars which I have yet to read which might be part of the issue.

[hunt4steve]

Originally Posted by OldNuc

There are some words in the compiled 91-94 FSM relating to setting idle speed in the early TBI cars which I have yet to read which might be part of the issue.

I've read them. There is a set screw on the back of the Throttle Body Cable Return spring. However, this set screw is not accessible by stock mode. One would have to drill out the body a b it to actually get to the head of the screw. Rather than screw with that, I wanted to go after it the right way. Being that the idle skipped around a bit, I wanted to make sure I got it fixed right. Being a Computer Jockey by Profession I'm just sorta a tight-ass about making it as perfect as possible when I have the ability to do so.....

My wife is always complaining that I'm too much of a tight-*ss when it comes to automotive things.....




edit:

But then again, if I wasn't such as tight-*ss, I would not have discovered the broken Roll-Pin and fixed that, leaving me with a hole in my transmission housing....

[OldNuc]

Well, now I don't have to go find that section in the FSM again. One of the things that makes for twitchy closed throttle operation is a pressure regulator that has failed and is leaking through. From experience rebuilding did not fix it. Fuel pressure test might be in order as well.