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Old 10-07-2020, 11:59 PM   #21
BrandonKastning
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Thumbs Up 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 4/7

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 4/7
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:00 AM   #22
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Thumbs Up 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 5/7

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 5/7
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:02 AM   #23
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Thumbs Up 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 6/7

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 6/7
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Old 10-08-2020, 12:04 AM   #24
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2001 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Thumbs Up 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 7/7

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Replacement - Gallery 7/7

Thanks again everyone!

~ Best Regards

Brandon
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Old 10-08-2020, 07:23 AM   #25
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

Hello,

Your call on the spark plug removal but I'm sure you are aware of the weather moving in this weekend and if you are doing this outside less work might be better.

Mr. fdyers' advice on dealing with the compression force with the plugs in is exactly what worked for me too.
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Old 10-08-2020, 09:09 AM   #26
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

With the proper socket on the crank shaft bolt... the engine turns clockwise rather easily with a long wrench. However, if the engine has some how lost it's timing... you won't likely be able to spin it because you are bending valves while spinning the engine. I didn't pull any plugs and simply guessed TDC, I got lucky though.
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Old 10-08-2020, 11:00 AM   #27
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ernesto rex View Post
Hello,

Your call on the spark plug removal but I'm sure you are aware of the weather moving in this weekend and if you are doing this outside less work might be better.

Mr. fdyers' advice on dealing with the compression force with the plugs in is exactly what worked for me too.
ernesto rex,

I appreciate that! Yes the weather isn't the best. I don't mind working in the rain as long as I am making progress.

Yes fdryer's advice on removing the spark plugs so I am not battling compression force is excellent advice.

Glad to know it worked for you!!!

~ Best Regards
Brandon
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Old 10-08-2020, 11:04 AM   #28
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
With the proper socket on the crank shaft bolt... the engine turns clockwise rather easily with a long wrench. However, if the engine has some how lost it's timing... you won't likely be able to spin it because you are bending valves while spinning the engine. I didn't pull any plugs and simply guessed TDC, I got lucky though.
RJ,

Good to know! I won't be afraid to spin it up to the markings and hope it times perfect when I crank it however many revolutions are needed to time / mark match it, provided revolution is how many times the engine cycles (if that's a full turning on the clock of the clockwise crankshaft turning).

Glad you guessed TDC and got lucky! I need all the tips I can get! Less resistance = better! No plugs = Easier timing belt replacement = I'm sold!

Thanks!

~ Best Regards
Brandon
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Old 10-08-2020, 01:36 PM   #29
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

What I meant about finding the right "time". Just like a clock hits 11 O clock twice a every day... the V6 engine requires two full 360 turns to complete one full 4 stroke cycle. So in theory is it possible to be 180 degrees out of 4 stroke cycle. In other words, the engine can indicate all timing marks are perfect and still be screwed up.

What happened to me is my timing belt slipped numerous teeth on the crank gear before I noticed it, as I was spinning the engine and then my cams all broke loose as I tried to correct the initial problem. You just can't spin the engine in the counter clockwise (for obvious reasons), but I had to spin the engine forward without turning the cams to match the crank with the cams to restore the proper 4 stroke cycle sequence. This is where I was guessing. Hard to explain, but you had better be prepared to fix or restore the timing if you happen to screw it up like I did. Perhaps removing the plugs might actually help because there is less of a tendency for the crank gear to slip on the belt if the compression isn't there.
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Old 10-08-2020, 02:51 PM   #30
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
What I meant about finding the right "time". Just like a clock hits 11 O clock twice a every day... the V6 engine requires two full 360 turns to complete one full 4 stroke cycle. So in theory is it possible to be 180 degrees out of 4 stroke cycle. In other words, the engine can indicate all timing marks are perfect and still be screwed up.

What happened to me is my timing belt slipped numerous teeth on the crank gear before I noticed it, as I was spinning the engine and then my cams all broke loose as I tried to correct the initial problem. You just can't spin the engine in the counter clockwise (for obvious reasons), but I had to spin the engine forward without turning the cams to match the crank with the cams to restore the proper 4 stroke cycle sequence. This is where I was guessing. Hard to explain, but you had better be prepared to fix or restore the timing if you happen to screw it up like I did. Perhaps removing the plugs might actually help because there is less of a tendency for the crank gear to slip on the belt if the compression isn't there.

RJ,

That makes sense. I hope it doesn't happen to me or others. (Lining up marks and it still not being timed correctly).

Maybe the crankshaft slipped because of that blue tool? Did you wedge that blue L shape tool (Part #J-42069-30) in between the belt and the crankshaft area? *Trying to understand what happened with your belt*.

I too hope that removing the plugs actually helps due to the lack of compression as you all mention.

~ Best Regards,

Brandon
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Old 10-08-2020, 02:55 PM   #31
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Thumbs Up 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Front/Rear Coil Packs + Plugs Pulled - Gallery 1/1

2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Front/Rear Coil Packs + Plugs Pulled - Gallery 1/1

Thanks again for the advice fdryer on the plug removal!
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Old 10-08-2020, 06:18 PM   #32
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

At least two here were able to remove the crankshaft pulley using a rubber hammer to loosen it from the crankshaft hub. Presuming you're successful removing your pulley, you're all set to find the appropriate torx socket to fit on the crank hub along with either a breaker bar or long handled socket wrench to manually turn the engine by hand to bring all five timing marks into alignment (four camshafts, one crankshaft). If you get to this point and all five timing marks are in alignment, you should be able to insert the two cam locks into place from service manual guidelines. I don't remember if the crankshaft lock is needed before the adjustable idlers are loosened in order to remove and replace the timing belt.
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Old 10-08-2020, 07:22 PM   #33
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Water Pump Pulley (Locking-How?)

1) Find TDC and verify it on all timing marks. Don't look for any marks on the old timing belt for those are useless.

2) Install both cam locks prior to doing anything to the remove the old timing belt.

3) With the Cam locks installed remove and replace all idlers and the old timing belt. After all idlers and belt tensioner is installed and firmly tightened in place, install the new timing belt observing the timing marks on the new timing belt. Start the timing belt at the crank pulley and lock the belt with the wedge in the timing belt tool kit. The lock should be installed at the 9:00 AM position. Just kidding about the AM, PM is okay too! Thread the belt in the counter clockwise direction to install the new belt. The reason this is important is to get close to the correct timing i.e. number of teeth between each pulley etc... After the initial installation of the new timing belt and the belt tensioner is temporally tightened to torque specs... never use the belt timing marks again... they will be wrong after turning the engine once. This is normal.

4) With the belt tensioner tightened... remove the wedge and both cam locks. If the belt and everything is tightened (including all idlers), nothing should happen to remove cam locks and wedge. If it does... welcome to my world! LOL

5) Spin engine 1 revolution 360 degrees and check Bank 2 timing marks. You can install the wedge to make sure the belt doesn't slip on the crank gear. Do not loosen the belt tensioner ever during these adjustments. The belt tensioner must never be loosened without both cam locks installed. Make adjustments to the lowest idler to pull the Bank 2 marks perfectly in tune. Tighten idler and remove the wedge and spin the engine again, repeating this step.

6) If Bank 2 mark remains perfectly spot on... you can move on, it not continue to repeat #5 until it does. Don't install the cams locks during these procedures because the cams must be free to move at all times while timing the engine.

NOTE: At no time can you let any idlers or the tensioner loose when you spin the engine. They must all be tighten any time you crank the engine by hand. Just make sure the tensioner and all idles are torqued to spec while spinning the engine. And only loosen the idler you are working with the adjust the timing on any specific bank. The idler must not fall off... you only loosen enough to enable an adjustment and then retighten it before spinning the engine.

NOTE NOTE: The belt tensioner should never be loosened without the cam locks installed.

7) Now repeat number 6, but test and adjust the next idler along the belt in a counter clockwise direction to adjust the Bank 1 timing marks. ONLY Spin the engine in a clockwise direction while you work around the circuit in the counter clockwise direction adjusting the ilders.

8) When you get Bank 1 marks spot on... you have to go back to Bank 2 and adjust them if needed. Changing one bank will adjust the other Bank of timing marks. After about 8 spins of the engine... you'll see what is going on and know which to adjust and when.

9) After you repeat repeat repeat again... the slack in the new timing belt will be correct between pulleys. At TDC, install the cam locks and the wedge before setting the tension on the belt with the belt tensioner. Most manuals will tell you to set the tension at the top end of the little scale on the belt tensioner, but that is wrong. It needs to be set and tightened a little off the given scale. This allows for the new belt to stretched without having to take it all apart again after a few miles to reset it.

That's what I can remember. I might have a few mistakes, but I want you to understand merely installing the belt is easy and timing the engine is a Beotch and you'll have to take your time to make sure it is in time... if you know what I'm saying. Expect this process to take 4 hours. Don't rush! It can be done in 20 minutes for an experienced mechanic. Have fun!
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