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Old 05-01-2020, 04:19 PM   #1
BrandonKastning
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Wrench 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

I am trying to figure out how to properly test my engine vacuum pressure prior to ripping out the PCV housing and rear + front & top intake manifolds + new hoses, so that I have accurate readings before and after the car surgery.

I would be posting this on this thread : http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=264540 which an admin closed for some reason and I have asked to have it re-opened so that it can be eventually solved.

If the thread doesn't re-open; I will create a new thread after I get an accurate engine vacuum reading and start tearing out the old oil sludge parts and hoses that seem to be causing the rough idle and engine shaking.

The following pictures are the new parts that I am going to be putting in during car surgery after I get a reading.

I can't seem to figure out how to do get a reading without throwing a code. I do not know where I am supposed to be doing this and how.

It doesn't make sense to me to unhook a hose; that throws a code and doesn't start the engine because it needs the hose connected. (Probably user error).

The "T" adapter in the 3 piece adapters that came with my gauge (the holes are not large enough to put onto the areas that I am going to circle with the pictures I am attaching).

If anyone knows what I am doing wrong and how to fix it; I would appreciate it. My hands are tied until I can get a reading before I can start ripping into this. I want that thread solved.

I have numbered the areas where I am trying to understand where to plug this thing into and how to keep the hoses connected while it's connected ?

#1 - I pulled that tube and plugged it straight into the gauge and it caused a cylinder 4 misfire code which set my car into passlock; fdryer helped me get passlock off by turning the key over for 10 minutes until it went away. I then plugged the #1 hose back in and it turned on running rough idle like it's been.

#2 - I haven't been able to test this port as I can't seem to unplug it and don't want to break it. Now with the new one that I have; (I had to do a refund today and got a different one); still only 3 adapters; only this new one I have, it doesn't fit onto the right side port #1 that I labeled. And the "T" adapters don't seem to inter-fit with any of these ports that I am finding.

#3 - I believe is part of the throttle body; not sure if I should be messing with this.

Or is there an area I am missing?

Any pointers would be helpful!

~ Best Regards

Brandon
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:24 PM   #2
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Wagon
Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandonKastning View Post
I am trying to figure out how to properly test my engine vacuum pressure prior to ripping out the PCV housing and rear + front & top intake manifolds + new hoses, so that I have accurate readings before and after the car surgery.

I would be posting this on this thread : http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=264540 which an admin closed for some reason and I have asked to have it re-opened so that it can be eventually solved.

If the thread doesn't re-open; I will create a new thread after I get an accurate engine vacuum reading and start tearing out the old oil sludge parts and hoses that seem to be causing the rough idle and engine shaking.

The following pictures are the new parts that I am going to be putting in during car surgery after I get a reading.

I can't seem to figure out how to do get a reading without throwing a code. I do not know where I am supposed to be doing this and how.

It doesn't make sense to me to unhook a hose; that throws a code and doesn't start the engine because it needs the hose connected. (Probably user error).

The "T" adapter in the 3 piece adapters that came with my gauge (the holes are not large enough to put onto the areas that I am going to circle with the pictures I am attaching).

If anyone knows what I am doing wrong and how to fix it; I would appreciate it. My hands are tied until I can get a reading before I can start ripping into this. I want that thread solved.

I have numbered the areas where I am trying to understand where to plug this thing into and how to keep the hoses connected while it's connected ?

#1 - I pulled that tube and plugged it straight into the gauge and it caused a cylinder 4 misfire code which set my car into passlock; fdryer helped me get passlock off by turning the key over for 10 minutes until it went away. I then plugged the #1 hose back in and it turned on running rough idle like it's been.

#2 - I haven't been able to test this port as I can't seem to unplug it and don't want to break it. Now with the new one that I have; (I had to do a refund today and got a different one); still only 3 adapters; only this new one I have, it doesn't fit onto the right side port #1 that I labeled. And the "T" adapters don't seem to inter-fit with any of these ports that I am finding.

#3 - I believe is part of the throttle body; not sure if I should be messing with this.

Or is there an area I am missing?

Any pointers would be helpful!

~ Best Regards

Brandon
My advice: Pull the tubing at connection #2. Its probably just stuck. Try to rotate it back and forth. If it moves just pull in out. plug your vacuum gauge into the plastic reservoir nipple.
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:25 PM   #3
Rj 2000 LS2
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Use your scan tool to measure intake barometric pressure. You don't need to actually measure it because if its bad, it won't run right. Meaning, if the MAF sensor reports X amount of air into the engine. The O2 sensors combined will steer the management of the engine to be in balance. If there is air entering the system after the MAF... no matter what, the engine won't be able to compensate for the "extra air" entering the system i.e. vacuum leak. Your scan tool can identify such problems. So measuring the exact vacuum is not so important. It's best to keep everything connected and use the scan tool to diagnose vacuum problems. In other words, our 3.0L engine can only function properly if the MAF meters the input air accurately and there are no leaks anywhere.

The security lock can happen if you ape the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it works, it just does. I have repeated it several times when I get inside the drivers side while using the steering wheel at a handle. It is the anti-theft security lock... it some how knows me or how I insert the key/start the engine. It only happened with me and never with my wife.

IMHO A post should have a title, problem and then solution... not meandering mindlessly over every part in the car. One Post using a descriptive title with One problem, isolate that problem, get advice and share the fix with other... then end post and start a new one otherwise the post will ONLY help you and nobody else. No one can search inside posts... they and only search via a title. If the title is too broad, it is useless to everyone trying to use this forum. Having a thread that starts out Car won't run, to bad alternator, speaker wires, flat, brakes, engine vacuum, struts, test equipment, to oil leaks... is no good. Also, if you post one subject and stick to the subject you can also search and find the information in the future. The more descriptive the Title the better for everyone.
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:30 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

I didn't realize you had markings on the photo. Do NOT disconnect any of the small vacuum hoses you circled because the engine will not run right. There are several hoses connected to the throttle body... two PCV hoses (lg and sm) which are the perfect place to connect a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to the throttle body and not the hose (plug the hose you disconnect). I would lean toward the small PCV hose port on the throttle body to connect the gauge (if you really want to do that).
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:48 PM   #5
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
I didn't realize you had markings on the photo. Do NOT disconnect any of the small vacuum hoses you circled because the engine will not run right. There are several hoses connected to the throttle body... two PCV hoses (lg and sm) which are the perfect place to connect a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to the throttle body and not the hose (plug the hose you disconnect). I would lean toward the small PCV hose port on the throttle body to connect the gauge (if you really want to do that).
Can you circle it by chance?
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Old 05-01-2020, 05:51 PM   #6
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rj 2000 LS2 View Post
Use your scan tool to measure intake barometric pressure. You don't need to actually measure it because if its bad, it won't run right. Meaning, if the MAF sensor reports X amount of air into the engine. The O2 sensors combined will steer the management of the engine to be in balance. If there is air entering the system after the MAF... no matter what, the engine won't be able to compensate for the "extra air" entering the system i.e. vacuum leak. Your scan tool can identify such problems. So measuring the exact vacuum is not so important. It's best to keep everything connected and use the scan tool to diagnose vacuum problems. In other words, our 3.0L engine can only function properly if the MAF meters the input air accurately and there are no leaks anywhere.

The security lock can happen if you ape the steering wheel. Don't ask me how it works, it just does. I have repeated it several times when I get inside the drivers side while using the steering wheel at a handle. It is the anti-theft security lock... it some how knows me or how I insert the key/start the engine. It only happened with me and never with my wife.

IMHO A post should have a title, problem and then solution... not meandering mindlessly over every part in the car. One Post using a descriptive title with One problem, isolate that problem, get advice and share the fix with other... then end post and start a new one otherwise the post will ONLY help you and nobody else. No one can search inside posts... they and only search via a title. If the title is too broad, it is useless to everyone trying to use this forum. Having a thread that starts out Car won't run, to bad alternator, speaker wires, flat, brakes, engine vacuum, struts, test equipment, to oil leaks... is no good. Also, if you post one subject and stick to the subject you can also search and find the information in the future. The more descriptive the Title the better for everyone.
Rj,

Regarding the thread searching capabilities of vBulletin forum; you are wrong. I may suck at fixing cars or knowing anything about cars. When it comes to computers... that's a different story.

Vbulletin is FULLY capable of searching the contents within threads. So you claiming it only helps me is very wrong.
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Old 05-01-2020, 06:12 PM   #7
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Disconnect the rubber hose marked in your snapshot as #27 and try connecting this end of the rubber hose to either a cone adapter or plastic fitting with barbed ends to allow slipping hoses on without them pulling off on their own. If you cannot fit the rubber hose to mate to your vacuum gauge hose and adapter, remove the hose and use the hard nylon tubing to connect to your vacuum gauge. There are many ways to mate similar inside diameter tubing together or different inside diameter tubing. Take your time if confused but remember this - with the engine idling at normal rpm (650 or so), you can feel the vacuum in that hose or tube when you place a finger over the end. The vacuum will not pull skin off but will suck on your finger. This is the vacuum you're measuring. Any doubt about the gauge - suck on the hose to the gauge and observe the needle. You should see needle deflection - a sign the gauge is working as designed. You should measure between 15-20 in hg with a warn idle.

Those rubber hoses have been on the vacuum canister for years yet still pliable. The plastic fitting is a little larger in diameter so the rubber hose fits very snug over it and can be difficult to remove. Do not bend the rubber hose sideways on the plastic tube inside the hose otherwise you may break off the plastic fitting. Some twisting, even pushing on the hose should break the dry bonding between rubber and plastic.
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Old 05-01-2020, 06:29 PM   #8
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Thumbs Up Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Solved!

I used the small throttle body PCV hose port and it worked perfectly. Thank you RJ!

I gauged on rough idle / 18

and when I was reving the engine to 2K - 2.5K it went to 25-26 tops.

It runs rough and shakes the engine.

However I got the readings I needed! Attached is the pic of how and where!

P.S. - Thank you fdryer for all your help on guiding me on this also.
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Old 05-01-2020, 09:35 PM   #9
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

The host you disconnected must be plugged. You can't just leave open. Didn't you hear the hiss? That's why it ran like garbage.

Yes, if you search within the forum you can find things, but not in your monster 25 page 500 thread post. There were a half of million questions and no solutions or resolutions. Besides search engines will not source thread content for searches, only Titles are found. If a Title is descriptive, and the info inside is useful, the forum benefits as does the viewers. If you mix too many colors you always end up with shat color not golf or silver.
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Old 05-01-2020, 09:38 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
Disconnect the rubber hose marked in your snapshot as #27 and try connecting this end of the rubber hose to either a cone adapter or plastic fitting with barbed ends to allow slipping hoses on without them pulling off on their own. If you cannot fit the rubber hose to mate to your vacuum gauge hose and adapter, remove the hose and use the hard nylon tubing to connect to your vacuum gauge. There are many ways to mate similar inside diameter tubing together or different inside diameter tubing. Take your time if confused but remember this - with the engine idling at normal rpm (650 or so), you can feel the vacuum in that hose or tube when you place a finger over the end. The vacuum will not pull skin off but will suck on your finger. This is the vacuum you're measuring. Any doubt about the gauge - suck on the hose to the gauge and observe the needle. You should see needle deflection - a sign the gauge is working as designed. You should measure between 15-20 in hg with a warn idle.

Those rubber hoses have been on the vacuum canister for years yet still pliable. The plastic fitting is a little larger in diameter so the rubber hose fits very snug over it and can be difficult to remove. Do not bend the rubber hose sideways on the plastic tube inside the hose otherwise you may break off the plastic fitting. Some twisting, even pushing on the hose should break the dry bonding between rubber and plastic.
Fdryer, not sure you were explicit enough. Suck on the hose to the gauge not the engine while it's running... just saying! LOL
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Old 05-01-2020, 10:24 PM   #11
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Default Re: 2001 Saturn L300 - v6 3.0 Liter - Testing Engine Vacuum Pressure

The mouth suction to the vacuum gauge is to prove the gauge works as BrandonKastning seemed to conclude his new vacuum gauge failed when it was incorrectly connecting to a source of vacuum.
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