dash lights flickering on a '00 SL-2; won't start...

[Tonioseven]

I started the car this morning, plugged the phone charger into the lighter socket, noticed the charger light wasn't on, pressed the charger in tighter, the car started to run funny, then it cut off. Lights work, radio won't work, all fuses are alright upon several visual inspections. Car wants to turn over but won't start. I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable to see if the car would revert back to "normal". I have never had aproblem with this car in the two years I've had it; the battery was purchased brand new in NOvember of 2011. I unplugged the cigarette lighter to see if that would help but nothing so far. Can someone help me please? Could it be the ignition switch?!

[OldNuc]

You have probably cooked F-2 located on the 68 pin black connector on the back of the inside fuse panel, all the way to the front. Same problem and fix as the gen-2 F-5.

[2NDSOUT]

What is the condition of the Alternator?

If the Alternator has not been replaced, then it may be time for a new one.

You may have a bad cell in the battery. Not unheard of; sometimes you can get a bad cell in the battery and it will cause the rest of the battery to go south. If you have a multimeter, test the voltage of the battery. While the car is sitting and turned off, the battery should read 12 Volts.

If you have a way to jumpstart the car- try doing that. If you can get the car started, take another reading with a multimeter. The voltage should read 13-14 Volts. If the Voltage doesn't read to these numbers then it would indicate that the Alternator needs to be replaced because the Alternator is not keeping a proper charge to the rest of the electrical system.

[Tonioseven]

Thank you for the replies! The alternator and battery SHOULD be alright but I'll try to have it checked. I'll try to jumpstart the car later on since I had to leave it at work (45 minutes away).

F-2: is that a fuse?

[OldNuc]

It will not start with a bad A-2 connection. The F-2 was an early AM error. A-2 is the wire terminal designation for the power source to the in car fuse box. Using the lighter socket has overloaded it and caused it to oxidize excessively. Quit using the lighter socket for powering electronics.

Remove the drivers right foot lower center console kick panel, it pulls off from the front. Now look across to the BACK of the I/P panel. At the front edge of the panel there is a rectangular black plug. against one vertical edge or the other and 2 up from the bottom is a large red(pink) wire. That should be A-2 push in on it and wiggle it, do this gently and if you are lucky everything will come back to life. If it does then you should get home if you are lucky. It is not fixed just working for now. You will have to fix it. The instructions below are generic for all years but it works.

That red(pink) wire is a direct connection to the IP BAT fuse in the UHJB. If you have decided it is the problem fixing is usually not that bad. You disconnect the battery negative terminal and then unbolt the center bolt in the black 68 pin plug. Once the bolt spins free grab the wire bundle and wiggle it all the way out. take a small chunk of scotch brite and clean up the A-2 pin in the panel. Just get it clean on at least one side. To fix the connector in the plug you remove the blue connection assurance clip that is on the side of the plug. pull the one that holds A-2. Once that lock is out you look at the face of the plug and locate A-2. Look closely and you will see that one side is rounded under. On that side you insert the end of a flat type of bobby pin under that rounded side and when it stops you can gently pull on the back end by the red (pink) wire and it will slide out when unlatched. If it does not slide right out slightly twist the bobby pin to lift the latch. Once out re-spring the latch slightly and clean up the section that slides over the pin. Use scotch brite instead of any abrasive paper. Reassemble and reconnect negative lead at battery.

[Tonioseven]

You are truly terrific ! I will follow your instructions to the letter when I get to work tonight. I will no longer use it to power my charger.

[OldNuc]

When you work on this do yourself a huge favor and disconnect the battery negative lead before you touch anything with a tool. Usually when you disconnect the 68 pin plug and look at the face the problem is instantly visible.

http://i.imgur.com/HwIvV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uxZT1.jpg

Couple of pictures of the plug, it is a generic picture but wil give you an idea of what you will see.

This is the connection side of the pin in the plug. You re-tension it from the other side. The latch is also on the other side.

http://i.imgur.com/wiAA2.jpg

[Tonioseven]

Thanks for the help guys! It was an underhood fuse. I pulled each fuse individually and found one that I overlooked.