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Old 03-23-2011, 06:37 PM   #1
Mobster
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Default A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Ok i've tried searching the forms but keep getting the wrong clutch info. So i was wanting to know can the A/c clutch be replaced without replacing compresure too and if so can it be done in place without removing lines and losing charge. Or if someone is just savy with the search tool link me to some treads. Thanks
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:46 PM   #2
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1997 SL2
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

How about this one?
http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=157076

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Old 03-23-2011, 09:01 PM   #3
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Are you sure the clutch and/or clutch coil is burned out? Have you tried to apply 12v directly to the coil wire to see if the clutch pulls in? Tried jumping out the pressure switch? It does the same as wiring 12v directly to the compressor to test the clutch coil. Unless you are sure of what you are doing you may be wasting time attempting a repair that may not be necessary. And how do you know the compressor is any good if the clutch failed?

Replacing a clutch and coil isn't done, period. By the time a coil is found burned out its most likely time to replace the entire compressor altogether. And then where do you find the replacement parts? Sourced them yet? They can be found but you'll have to find these places. Although the service manual does explain replacing a clutch on the car without disconnecting lines, you still need the special tool to pull the clutch off and reinstall the new one. Know where to buy one? They're not cheap. Know how to make one? Here are the two drawings. I don't know what size the threads are and by the time you have it figured out, you'll probably remove the compressor anyway and that means a major repair.

Think it over as to what you're getting involved in. I'm all for doing it myself but I won't encourage anyone to try a/c repairs because of the complexities once a system is opened. You have to be fully prepared for a major repair using all the refrigeration tools and equipment if you expect to save any money as most up front costs will be investing in tools, equipment and at least one manual about car a/c systems. If you have a friend qualified in vehicle a/c repairs then you can try repairs and possibly learn some things.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf puller center.pdf (5.9 KB, 242 views)
File Type: pdf drive plate and pulley installer.pdf (5.7 KB, 151 views)
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:08 PM   #4
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Yes. its not hard at all. I've done it twice on the car without disconnecting the compressor.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:03 PM   #5
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2002 SL1
2008 Astra XE
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

It is easy to do on the car. The drive plate is not pressed on, it has splines. You don't need a puller to remove it. The pulley/bearing is held on with spring clip. As Fdryer said, make sure that is the actual problem. You can test the coil with an ohmmeter, or a 12v source.

Last edited by hoseppi; 05-14-2011 at 10:13 PM.
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Old 06-25-2011, 12:20 AM   #6
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Wrench Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

First of all our 99 SC2 has a compressor unique to the 1999 model year. Replacing the clutch can be done without removing the compressor or touching the A/C lines.

The first step is to remove the 10mm bolt in the center of the clutch plate. This can be done without a special tool if you use some imagination; just find a way to prevent the disk from rotating such as using a flat blade screwdriver on the outside of the disk (not on the inside as a wedge). For example, while you have a socket on the bolt, position the screwdriver against the socket and then have its tip the front side of one of the three protruding buttons. By the way, I had to get the clutch from a salvage yard and came on a compressor; I could not find just a clutch at any parts store or salvage yard and the used compressor with a clutch attached was only $35. The front plates were slightly different with the one on the car coming off easily after removing the bolt and gentle wiggling using a flat blade screwdriver as a wedge. The second was much more challenging and could not be pried off. I realized it had a second set of threads (for a larger bolt than the 10mm) near the surface; it is not a standard pitch metric. Anyway, even the expensive special removing tools with many options would not work, so I found a metric bolt that easily threaded all the way in to where the 10mm threads begin. Then find a bolt or steel rod that is a smaller diameter than the 10mm that you can cut to a length just a little longer than the depth of the 10mm threads; this is inserted in the hollow shaft and when you tighten the nonstandard pitch metric bolt against it, the plate starts coming off. I actually cut three different lengths, so I would not have too few threads with which to tighten. Be careful to keep the washer-like spacers that keep the proper space between the electromagnetic coil and the outer plate you just removed.

Next, there is a snap ring to remove, look carefully and it can be seen.

I used a harmonic balance puller to remove the pulley on one. I used a block of wood against the pulley and tapped it with a hammer on the other. Remember to be careful with the pulley; it is not challenging just a bit tight. Also, do NOT try to remove the entire assembly yet; just remove the pulley.

After removing the pulley, remove the three Phillips head machine screws holding the assembly to the compressor; if you cannot see them, you can feel them. One set was tight requiring an impact driver because someone used Locktite, the other came out with a short Phillips screwdriver.

I cleaned the mating surfaces with sandpaper although rougher might be better to prevent this metal clutch plate from slipping.

Assembly is really easy.

A few additional tips might help. Testing a clutch is easy on or off of the car; since the 99 only has a one wire lead (into the seemingly dual-plug connector), just apply positive (+) voltage to the single connector on the compressor clutch and negative (-) anywhere on the compressor or clutch. This should draw the plate to the pulley. If the compressor is still on the car, you probably do not need a negative connection unless you have a bad ground which some have reported within the compressor.

It is not necessarily all that challenging; it would have helped me to know all of this before. I hope it helps you.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:34 AM   #7
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2002 SL1
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Everything the above poster said works. Just be really careful with the bolt that pushes the outer plate off. It must be the right thread pitch and even then damage may still occur as what I experienced working on 2 compressors. Also after you remove the snap ring, gentle prying can coax the bearing off if you are lucky without a puller.
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:46 AM   #8
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2002 SL1
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Questions:

Looking at both mating surfaces, they appear to be steel. Is this the friction material???

Also on this style of ac does the clutch assembly slide on the splines or does the outer plate flex? I just can't see how they clamp when the fit is so tight with those spacers.
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Old 10-29-2011, 11:58 AM   #9
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2003 L-Series 3.0L Sedan
Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Look at this link with some excellent pictures; http://www.springerpop.net/F350/air_gap.html. A/c clutches are the same for virtually all motor vehicle systems and slap steel on steel, typically heard as the metal to metal loud click. The rotating part of the clutch plate is mounted to three flex straps that allows the slightest movement for clutch engagement/disengagement. The air gap that's seen is all the gap needed to maintain separation as the flexible straps hold the clutch plate away from the pulley face (that provides the magnetic force to draw the clutch plate in). Our Saturns are plain hub and shaft arrangements using a single key/keyway to hold a small 1/8"(?) square key to lock the hub to the shaft. No splines needed as splines are designed to transfer large torque forces like engine torque to either a torque converter in automatics or the clutch assembly in manuals. Our compressors are spun up by a serpentine belt and only need a small amount of engine torque so a keyed shaft is all that's necessary.

If you need to see a picture break down of a clutch/compressor, try my photo album. There are a few showing the clutch assembly representing most a/c clutches used in the automotive field.
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Old 10-29-2011, 02:15 PM   #10
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Thanks, so it does flex! Also I'm quite sure I saw splines but perhaps they have different styles...
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Old 10-29-2011, 02:42 PM   #11
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

The flex plate allows the air gap when the clutch coil isn't powered up, the disengaged phase. When the coil is powered up the magnetic force is transferred through the pulley and attracts the flex plate. The flex plate has more than enough give to allow the plate to contact the moving pulley face and 'click' is heard as contact is made; the compressor runs.
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Old 08-07-2022, 03:54 PM   #12
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommie View Post
Questions:

Looking at both mating surfaces, they appear to be steel. Is this the friction material???
Reviving this thread - I am replacing the fuse in my A/C clutch. I managed to get the whole thing off and apart without taking the compressor out of the vehicle. New thermal fuse is in and ready to go. Clutch surfaces have been cleaned up as best I can. But I have the same question.. the mating surfaces of the clutch are just steel against steel. Does anyone know if this how they come new, or did they come faced with some sort of friction material? - Thanks
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Old 08-07-2022, 05:00 PM   #13
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

All ac clutches are steel on steel with an air gap of approximately 0.015 for the flexure. A larger air gap may not allow the clutch to engage. Air gap is set with a spacer/washer between clutch hub and compressor end shaft.
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Old 08-07-2022, 06:26 PM   #14
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Default Re: A/C clutch replacement 2002 sl1

Quote:
Originally Posted by fdryer View Post
All ac clutches are steel on steel with an air gap of approximately 0.015 for the flexure. A larger air gap may not allow the clutch to engage. Air gap is set with a spacer/washer between clutch hub and compressor end shaft.
Thanks - OK I have the gap set and the clutch back together. A/C is working perfectly!
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