Manual window hard to roll up!

[bkbucs]

I've got a problem, my manual driver side window on my 91 SL1 (power locks) is hard to roll up. Every time I get to the same "spot" while rolling the window up, its difficult to roll the window up. I'd swear that a few teeth on the gear are broken and that's why it's only sticky at one spot on the window crank rotation.

What exactly do I need to replace to fix this, is it the window regulator or something else or in addition to that? I've read the posts on removing the inner door panel, does the regulator come right out from there? Are there any tricks or pitfalls I should be aware of? Do you have any idea what are some reasonable used prices for the parts I'll need?

Note: When it rains, its a cinch to roll up the window. I'm assuming that's because rain is getting into the gear and lubing it for me. Would I buy any time by lubing up the gear, could I even get to it without removing the entire door panel?

Thanks!!!

[crh0831]

I had almost exactly the same problem in my 97 SL2. I bought it 6 months ago and as the weather has turned colder the driver's side window has gotten harder and harder to roll *down*. It would roll up fine. I thought it might be the rubber window "guides" were getting stiff / frozen whatever. I called my dealership and asked what they would do. The tech said they would first try to spray the rubber with silicon - if that didn't help they'd have to take the door panel off and investigate further.

I went to my local Murray's Autoparts and picked up a can of silicon for around $3.00 and sprayed the rubber runners each day for about three days - and it works great! (Getting the excess silicon off the window took a bit of work - but it wasn't too hard).

My first clue was that I was able to roll the window up fine - but rolling it down it seemed that the rubber guides pinched together against the glass and made it really hard... seems OK now. YMMV.

[bkbucs]

I really don't think its in the rubber guides, though. I can definitely feel it in the crank when I get to the part where its hard to turn.

Plus I live in Florida, it doesn't get too cold here and it isn't affected by the weather (other than the rain as I mentioned earlier).

Thanks for the advise.

Also, no problem rolling down, only up.

[sattech]

Both the inner and outer door panels must be removed to replace the regulator. As a stop gap measure try lubricating the window tracks- the area in the front and rear that the glass rides in. Over time the regulator developes play. When the loosenes becomes excessive enough the glass is no longer held rigidly in place and cocks on the tracks causing the bind. The lubrication in the tracks keeps it from binding a hard. When it rains the water acts as a lube and does the same job. You can try adjusting it- nec to remove the outer panel- but even if it works, due to the wear on the reg. it would only be temporary.

[steveschmitt]

My driver's door regulator starting getting stiff in cold weather and now is pretty much stuck. My spring break project is to replace it. I asked this question a while back and got several responses - one said that there was a Saturn Tech Bulletin on the early cars that described a lubricant problem in the regulators. Saturn gets about $120 for the regulator and three rivets that you need to replace.
Haynes has a good description how to do it but they call for a special tool for the bolts that hold the glass to the regulator. Someone recommended a brake tool that can be ground to fit the bolts - I bought tool ($10) and am ready to go. E-mail me if you want.

[93SOHC]

That's my exact spring break project also. I much prefer to drive with the windows down and the radio up, so I need to fix my windows before spring gets here. Does anyone know if there actually is a TSB for that, and if I could still take my car in and get it fixed? I worked for about 45 minutes one day trying to get the driver's side door panel off, and couldn't get the part around the door handle to release for anything. The Haynes manual showed one with the power door locks, which would let you get back there when you pop them out. Anyone know how to do it with manual locks? One guy said to slide it to the left, but that didn't seem to work either.

.... I lubed the rubber guides with spray silicone yesterday too, didn't make it any easier though.

[steveschmitt]

It's been awhile since I took the handle off. It pivots on each side on a black plastic cylinder that has another smaller plastic keeper inside it and concentric. You need a small punch to push the keeper out so you can push the larger cylinder out. Both parts are the same color, so it's hard to see. The keeper is pretty small and black so watch for dropping it. They're both easy to remove once you push in the right space.

I just bought the regulator and rivets for $110. I also bought a Lisle brand Disc Brake Piston Tool (P/N 28600) that can be modified to ground to fit the glass nuts at Advanced Auto for $10. I wanted to buy a glass nut from Saturn for practice fit and they're only $0.15 but they didn't have them in stock. My Haynes manual calls for a special tool for the glass nuts.

There's another thread I started on the window regulator back around the holidays.

Good luck

[bkbucs]

Thanks for the advise on lubing the tracks with silicone grease! It worked great, the window goes up and down like I first remember it doing. Even if I have to reapply every few weeks, that's much easier than replacing the regulator.
Thanks again!