Completed valve adjustment on my 3.5

[deca5423]

Completed the valve adjustment on my 3.5 which was probably long overdue at 146k. I don't think I touched a single intake valve but the exhaust valves were so tight that I couldn't even fit the gauge in. The first valve I tried was an exhaust valve and I was really confused at where the hell the gauge was supposed to go, it was that tight!

For anyone else looking to do this I would clean the electrical harnesses above the valve covers well. They don't really move out of the way and the crud on them kept falling in the engine every time I bumped them. Probably took me 10 hours start to finish over a few days. Someone more experienced could probably do it in half the time. I bought the special tool as well which was very nice but I couldn't use it on two of the back exhaust valves because the firewall is too close.

Before the adjustment I had noticed if I started the car and shut it off while it was still cold it would kind of sputter out like I cut off the gas and it was still trying to fire. This issue is now completely gone. Had two instances where it stalled out completely on a cold start. Seems to have a bit more pep in it's step too but that could be in my head

[far2grumpy]

You have lots of nerve ... and I mean that in a good way.

Did you ever have SES ... and if yes ... you recall specific codes?

Did you locate a complete gasket kit or order separate gaskets?

You have numbers in either case?

Again ... well done and thanks for the thread!

[RobertGary1]

I found the intake to need a bit of tightening and the exhaust were slightly too tight. Overall the adjustment was so small i wouldn't bother with it again. No difference in performance. The bigger risk is someone not familiar with measuring valves misreading the gauge (you have to be careful with the angle). Most shops only allow their master techs to do this because of this.

-Robert

[underthehood]

Amazes me in this day and age Honda hasn't figured out there are automatic hydraulic cam followers. (lifters).

[deca5423]

I never had any codes even for the stalls on cold start, which surprised me. The two stalls were even years apart. The thing I noticed with the rough shut off was it only happen if I shut it off while it was still cold. It was noticeable because I have to back the vue out to get to my lawn mower.

I reused the same gaskets. They were in great condition and I just made sure they were clean and well seated.

I suspect my car may have been a little abnormal in how off the exhaust valves were. I used the 0.305 for exhaust and 0.229 for the intake and I could barely fit the 0.229 gauge in the exhaust valves. Like I said I didn't touch the intakes because they 'felt' good enough.

[far2grumpy]

Originally Posted by deca5423

I never had any codes even for the stalls on cold start, which surprised me. The two stalls were even years apart. The thing I noticed with the rough shut off was it only happen if I shut it off while it was still cold. It was noticeable because I have to back the vue out to get to my lawn mower.

I reused the same gaskets. They were in great condition and I just made sure they were clean and well seated.

I suspect my car may have been a little abnormal in how off the exhaust valves were. I used the 0.305 for exhaust and 0.229 for the intake and I could barely fit the 0.229 gauge in the exhaust valves. Like I said I didn't touch the intakes because they 'felt' good enough.

None of following is meant to detract from your willingness to get at the rocker arms and adjust valves - that is so cool.

Exhaust valves could be a "tad" out of tolerance ... here are numbers from factory service manual:

• Intake valve adjustment: 0.2-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in)

• Exhaust valve adjustment: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in)

You mention being able to insert 0.229 (0.009) in exhaust valve lash so I don't see the slight "tightness" as being a problem.

[deca5423]

Originally Posted by far2grumpy

None of following is meant to detract from your willingness to get at the rocker arms and adjust valves - that is so cool.

Exhaust valves could be a "tad" out of tolerance ... here are numbers from factory service manual:

• Intake valve adjustment: 0.2-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in)

• Exhaust valve adjustment: 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in)

You mention being able to insert 0.229 (0.009) in exhaust valve lash so I don't see the slight "tightness" as being a problem.

Thanks, I understand

Your ranges appear to be correct with the stickers that Honda prints on the J series cars for valve adjustment:

-Intake 0.22 +- 0.02
-Exhaust 0.30 +- 0.02

Hopefully I have this right, and I will round up slightly to make this easier. 0.229 = 0.23 and 0.305 = 0.31.

The 0.23 gauge was a tight fit in my exhaust and the low end of the range for the exhaust is 0.30 which would make it unacceptably tight, correct? I feel confident I did this correctly because my cold start/shut off problem is now completely gone and I adjusted only the exhaust valves to fit the 0.31 gauge.

[Red_Vue]

Quick question for you.. I can't seem to find a solid answer.
The order is 1,3,5 closest to the cabin, left to right
And 2,4,6 closest to the radiator left to right... Correct?

[far2grumpy]

Bank 1 - nearest cabin - cylinders are 1, 2 and 3 counting from front of engine (accessory belt end) to rear (toward transmission).

Bank 2 - nearest radiator cylinders are 4, 5 and 6 front to rear.

[atikovi]

You set the front bank cam sprocket to the #1 mark in the timing belt cover window, then adjust cylinder 1 valves in the picture. Then turn the crank to the next cylinder and continue on.

[KCW]

reading this thread and I thought it was an aprils fools joke

google honda V6 engine valve adjustment, and I still cant believe honda would make ANY car engine that did not have hydraulic lifters

since I have scrapped out my last saturn I have been driving Ford and Toyota cars now, always held honda in high regard, but there is no way in hell I would buy a car that requires the valves to be manually adjusted, at any interval

it was easy to do on old air cooled VWs, and it was suppose to be done every 3000 miles with the oil change

the website I found said the valve adjustment on a honda V6 is a 4 hour job

I never even heard of this before - I dont mind checking and adjusting valves on my motorcycles, because they are very simple engines, small, light and powerful

but on a car? No way.