Lo Idle AC mystery solved.

[far2grumpy]

Originally Posted by SnowZilla

I wish I found this thread years ago, but better late than never.

How hard is this job to do? . I had a couple issues before my ac system stopped working all together.

2004 Saturn Vue v6 3.5l

Prior it only worked at high speeds on high way, But I would always get water on the passenger side floor. It was more and more water in the end days. Until one day ac stopped working. I assumed the refrigerant ran out. it just failed and a local mechanic told me I would need to shell out close to 1k.

So at the moment nothing works. I'm assuming I have a clog of some sort, Does anyone know how to unclog the system?

Thanks

I've changed valves on three of four family 3.5 Vue's.

Not a big deal to change but you definitely need means to remove and store refrigerant.

New valve kits are available on Amazon for $10 and ship free with Prime.

I'll email replacement instructions if you PM address.

[PortugalFocus]

Originally Posted by goose737700

yes it's the small cover held on by 2 10mm bolts, the valve comes with a new gasket and o ring for the valve itself. the valve is backed up with a spring so it follows the plate as you loosen it up.

I know I'm a bit late but removing this cover, do you need to evac and recharge your AC? I got the new scroll valve but I don't have a machine to vac down the system and I don't want to take it to a shop. I do have the 2.2 and the compressor is out in the open and easily accessible an dI don't think I'll have to remove it. I do have visible freon on the bottom of the compressor as it is wet.

[fdryer]

What year Vue? Updating your profile with car stats makes it easier than playing twenty questions.

In any case related to ac repairs, opening a system may release refrigerant under high pressure (anything above 30 psi) and can result in severe freeze burns, severe eye damage from refrigerant, oil and dye sprayed into eyes. Presuming a leak occurred, some/most/all refrigerant was released but until you test for residual pressure, don't must open any part of your system for repairs. The service valves are a safe way to test for residual pressure by covering one valve loosely with a rag and slowly depress the valve stem with a small screwdriver or something. Don't look down into the service valve to avoid getting sprayed. Look off to the side. Normal standby pressures can vary, mimicking outside air temperature. 75-95 psi is high pressure. When ac runs, high side pressures can go as high as 250 psi+. An exploding hose will sound like a gun shot under very high pressures. If your system leaked out some but still has refrigerant, you have two choices. The legal way is to visit a shop that will reclaim refrigerant and maybe credit it towards a repair, charge a flat fee or do it free. The other alternative is that no one call be fined if a system leaked out all refrigerant from a leak or collision.

Once a system has lost or has its refrigerant removed, you can safely try repairs. Once repairs are done and sealed, a complete evacuation is needed to remove all air and moisture from a repaired system, a final leak check is done and if zero leaks/vacuum gauge shows vacuum holding for at least 15 minutes with vacuum pump shut off, this system is ready for refilling with refrigerant. Not evacuating a repaired system is gambling on incorrect pressures and unwanted freezing issues from short cuts. Ac repairs are unforgiving of mistakes. Either do it right or pay someone to do it. The aim of every ac repair is restoring it back to factory condition and can be repaired by almost anyone taking the time and effort. Several hundred dollars van be saved by doing it yourself but repairs must be done correctly to have 100% restoration of ac use. There are no short cuts to acc repairs. Doing it yourself with the same equipment (vacuum pump and gauges from AutoZone) can and does save money against paying a repair shop but repairs and skills are required for advanced ac repairs.

[PortugalFocus]

Originally Posted by fdryer

What year Vue? Updating your profile with car stats makes it easier than playing twenty questions.

In any case related to ac repairs, opening a system may release refrigerant under high pressure (anything above 30 psi) and can result in severe freeze burns, severe eye damage from refrigerant, oil and dye sprayed into eyes. Presuming a leak occurred, some/most/all refrigerant was released but until you test for residual pressure, don't must open any part of your system for repairs. The service valves are a safe way to test for residual pressure by covering one valve loosely with a rag and slowly depress the valve stem with a small screwdriver or something. Don't look down into the service valve to avoid getting sprayed. Look off to the side. Normal standby pressures can vary, mimicking outside air temperature. 75-95 psi is high pressure. When ac runs, high side pressures can go as high as 250 psi+. An exploding hose will sound like a gun shot under very high pressures. If your system leaked out some but still has refrigerant, you have two choices. The legal way is to visit a shop that will reclaim refrigerant and maybe credit it towards a repair, charge a flat fee or do it free. The other alternative is that no one call be fined if a system leaked out all refrigerant from a leak or collision.

Once a system has lost or has its refrigerant removed, you can safely try repairs. Once repairs are done and sealed, a complete evacuation is needed to remove all air and moisture from a repaired system, a final leak check is done and if zero leaks/vacuum gauge shows vacuum holding for at least 15 minutes with vacuum pump shut off, this system is ready for refilling with refrigerant. Not evacuating a repaired system is gambling on incorrect pressures and unwanted freezing issues from short cuts. Ac repairs are unforgiving of mistakes. Either do it right or pay someone to do it. The aim of every ac repair is restoring it back to factory condition and can be repaired by almost anyone taking the time and effort. Several hundred dollars van be saved by doing it yourself but repairs must be done correctly to have 100% restoration of ac use. There are no short cuts to acc repairs. Doing it yourself with the same equipment (vacuum pump and gauges from AutoZone) can and does save money against paying a repair shop but repairs and skills are required for advanced ac repairs.

I completely understand that. I was just asking if removing the back plate off of the compressor opens the AC system.

I've attached a picture of the compressor with the panel I'm speaking about.

Am I able to remove this without discharging the AC system? Also I'll assume this is where the scroll valve goes. Any help?

[fdryer]

Yes, removing the scroll control cover releases refrigerant immediately. All vehicle ac systems are considered technically sealed, no different to refrigerators using the same r134a refrigerant with the exception of the motor vehicle industry adding service valves for the eventual damage and repairs necessary to restore ac function. Even removing service valve caps will release refrigerant as Schrader valves aren't leak proof with caps providing a seal when tightened properly.

[rgroves]

almost 5 years and the issue has returned. Sometimes the A/C will cool while at idle or while at 2000+ RPMs. Once it stops cooling...it almost never starts cooling again until you turn the engine off and let it sit.

Didn't have access to gauges, but connected one of those "quick" refill cans they sell, and the gauge was up in the "red zone". That's exactly what I experienced 5 years ago.

Gonna contact my uncle and see if he still has his pump and gauges. If not, I don't think I'm gonna sink $1300+ into a $8-1000 vehicle for a new compressor.