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Old 05-26-2022, 01:34 PM   #10
KevinVarnes has a spectacular aura aboutKevinVarnes has a spectacular aura about
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 273

2000 SL1
1995 SW2
Default Re: Right rear wheel-bearing replacement

Well last night was a bust. I have several other bolts in my toolbox where I keep the screws that I did use so I cannot give you the exact dimensions of what I used. You will need to do a little digging and maybe some measuring, but I am pretty sure the bolts I used were 100mm long.

As I was driving home last night I also recalled how I actually pushed the bearings out. I did not screw the longer bolts in from the center of the car as I said up above. I'll try to give a good description.

Remove all four factory bolts. Line up the hole in the hub with one of the bearing retaining screw holes. Install one of the pressing screws through that hole and into the screw hole (same direction that the factory bolts came out). Screw it in far enough so the head of the bolt clears the inside face of the hub. Next rotate the hub so the access hole lines up with one of the other mounting screw holes. Do the same with another bolt. Now turn the hub so the access hole is not in line with either of the bolts that you just installed. Start unscrewing the bolts (you will need to use a wrench). Eventually the hex head of the bolt will come in contact with the inside surface of the hub. Evenly unscrew both bolts a few turns at a time. The bearing assembly should come out pretty easily.

I don't think you will need to apply nearly enough force with the bolts to break the knuckle. I mean use common sense, but you aren't going to be reefing on them with a 5' breaker bar. If you want to use four that would be even better, but it will take longer. I was fine just using two.
'85 Ford LTD Squire
'89 Cougar XR-7 5 Speed
'95 T-Bird SC 5 Speed
'97 T-Bird LX
'91 Crown Vic P72 351W
'98 Saturn SW2 5 Speed (wife's car)
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