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Old 01-28-2014, 01:50 AM   #8
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 1,106

1999 SL2
1993 SW2
Default Re: Questions about Partial Rebuild

Not really up to date on whether the 3rd gen crank is actually better or not.

Overbore is up to the machine shop, and you won't be able to tell yourself. Out-of-round and taper have a .002" service limit and you can't accurately measure that or the other specs without very high dollar tools. Let the shop also order rings/pistons/etc. Hastings are the good (probably OEM) cheap rings, Perfect Circle are the more expensive high end rings. For racing set the gaps to the max. If you are dead set on one or the other then make that abundantly clear to the shop, otherwise let them pick for you.


Sealed Power. DNJ is, and I paraphrase OldNuc, no-name asian junk.

Thought so.

Head Gasket - FelPro
Timing Set - Cloyes

Was already planning on these due to what I found on the forums. Also, VCG will be FelPro

If I switch cranks, I'd replace Main Bearings as well. What size would I need?
Probably standard. Have the shop inspect and polish (you can measure the crank reasonably well if you want to invest in a micrometer and learn how to use it accurately). Grinding (and subsequent oversize bearings) is only required if something is wrong with the new crank. Unless the crank is absolutely perfect you want to have it polished and then make sure it is still within specs for a standard size bearing. Mahle bearings are what I was recommended and am running.

Good to know

Should I pull the crank and replace bearings and get a regrind regardless?
I'd plastigauge one main and one rod and make a decision based on that. Safe main oil clearance is .0002" to .002" and tighter is good. Rods are .0004" to .0025". If the plastigauge comes out larger than .002" for mains or .0025" for rods then take it to the shop. Bearings are supposed to take the wear so a polish is likely all that will be needed for the crank.

What is meant by rods? Wrist pin? I'm not sure what differentiates the rod measurement from the main's measurement. Sorry.

How do I tell if a hone is required?
By removing a piston from its bore. Meaning it is required if you so much as pull out a piston. There are people who will tell you stories of how they didn't need one, but there are also people who play Russian roulette and win.

Oh. Got it.

I was planning to drill the oil control rings per OldNuc here. But we will be running Amsoil Signature Series. My DD runs on the same stuff and has for over 10,000 miles and doesn't burn a bit. Is drilling necessary?
I would. Amsoil SS is terrific, but there's no reason not to drill them either. The original fear was piston seizure from oil film failure, oils have improved and that doesn't happen and probably never would have so go for it.

Will do, now that we own a drill press.

Sorry for all the rookie questions, but I bought this second car to learn on, hence the questions.
Bring it on, rebuilds are fun!
That's what I want to hear.
Thanks so much for the help, guys. I really appreciate it.
1998 Red SL 5spd "The Right Honorable Duke Farnsworth the Functional of Syracuse":165,000 miles
1999 Forest Green SL2 5spd "Sally": 307,100+ miles
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