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Old 08-05-2017, 11:23 AM   #4
RobD1517 is on a distinguished road
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bixby, Ok
Posts: 136

2008 Astra XR
1999 SL2
Default Re: Steps to take manual XR transmission out

Wish I'd known about this post the other day. Not the best at tutorials either but I have first hand experience unfortunately. Will need a set of External torx (got a set from Craftsman for like $40) sockets.

I did mine with an A-Frame since I don't have a lift. Put the car up on stands and support the motor and trans together. Just took the weight off the mounts is all at this point. Remove the battery then dropped exhaust and knocked all the suspension loose from the subframe. Was concerned about alignment but luckily can't mess it up too badly. Left it all hanging from struts then started on loosening up the subframe. You will have a trans mount that needs to be taken loose as well before the frame can come down. The last thing I did before I dropped the subframe was disconnect the steering shaft. Under the dash at the base of the column where it goes into the floor u will find a bolt pinch clamp. The bolt will come all the way out then the shaft will come off (probably second worst part of the job due to lil room.) Once that's disconnected, start knocking the bolts out of the subframe and lower it down. At this point I supported the trans with a floor jack and started working on the mounts on that side (never even loosened the passenger side mount.) Once it's all loosened, center of the car between the engine and firewall u will find the shift cable. Takes a torx to loosen the pinch clamp. If I were to do this again, I'd find a way to mark where that cable comes into the clamp. Resetting the shifter was a bit confusing getting under then back in the car to get it aligned right. Disconnect the hydraulic line as well from the slave cylinder as well as the backup switch.

At this point it's time to start loosening the trans from the engine. Really takes 2 people to get it off the motor and not tearing something up, or tear urself up. Going back in is just about the same as disassembly with the exception of bleeding the hydraulic line (tricky, but it can be done. Had to do it similar to when u do the brakes but I had to crack the line instead of a traditional bleeder.) Also highly recommend sourcing a clutch alignment tool as well. Not impossible to do without it but makes it much easier.

As far as fluids, I used just under 2 qts of Redline MT-85. Found it on Amazon for like $30 for the pair. As far as filling, and proper leveling, u have two holes. One being the brake switch which is the fill and a check hole that's on the lower driver side (if ur looking at the trans from the wheel well it'll be in the far lower right corner kinda hidden behind frame and unibody.) Fill till it spills out the check hole n button her up.

Hope I didn't miss anything and hope it all goes successfully!
'92 SL2 - 108,000 miles (traded)
'96 SL2 - 312,000 miles (blew up)
'98 SL2 - ??????? miles (parts car)
'99 SL2 - 168,000 miles (Sold 11/08)
'08 Astra - 131,000 miles and counting!
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