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Garland 02-22-2002 06:47 PM

Saturn Newbie Guide!
So I was reading a J-Body (sunfire/cavalier) forum, and saw someone was kind enough to write a newbie performance guide. The reason why is that quite frequently the same questions get asked over and over again. So why not reduce the number of threads by beating them to the punch J. So without further wait, hereís :

The Saturn Newbie Performance Guide

Note: This guide is meant to inform, and assist new Saturn enthusiasts, and even some old ones with some performance-related questions. Itís going to be long, itís going to be drawn out, and Iím writing it.. So thereís bound to be errors. Let me know so I can update this as itís going on my website as well. Also bear in mind Iím not a mechanic. Iím a computer geek with a flair for cars. So if something causes you to have problems, Iím sorry to hear it. You really should double check what you read here.

Question 1:
Why modify a Saturn?

Saturns are a small, light car. Their weight and power output is nearly identical to a Mazda Miata. They handle great, and are exceptionally safe cars. Theyíre fairly reliable, though sometimes some people get unreasonably bad cars. Thereís a lot of reasons why, but then again weíre not here to focus on the negative. This is meant to enhance a budding Saturn enthusiastís interest, and as such, I feel that we should stick with the good points for now. Saturns, while relatively underpowered stock, with proper modification can really scream! People are just starting to find that out, and so weíre seeing more and more 13 or 12 second saturns on the drag strip. Saturn itself is slowly getting interested in performance, but in their usual Saturn way which is by doing testing and not telling a soul.

Question 2:
Where do I go to get parts? I call up people and they just laugh at me!

If you live in an area like me, asking for Saturn performance parts is like selling your soul. If itís not mustang, itís not worth owning. At least in the outlands of Harrisburg, PA. Well I donít agree. The thing to remember here is not horsepower per liter, but rather power to weight ratio. That is what really matters. Every true car enthusiast should know that the lighter you are, the faster you go. In other words, our rolling Tupperware can really move! Youíre going to be very unlikely to find any kind of stores that actually sell Saturn performance parts local to you. My personal efforts usually ended up in wrong parts and disaster. So in that respect, your best friend is Mr. Internet. What went from 1 or 2 Saturn performance retailers has grown a little bit and weíre really starting to get a market! Hereís a list of the ones Iíve found that offer unique parts (are not resellers of someone already listed).

First and foremost: [url][/url]
Saturn Performance Systems. These guys practically set the standard for the Saturn performance community. However just because you started something doesnít mean youíve got the best products. Many times people will see what you did and strive to copy it, only better. Up to you to find someone who has done better though.

I found these guys through a google search. They have no SPS parts for sale. I inquired about his product and found out a little bit. Heís claiming over an 80 hp gain at the wheels. However when I asked for the dyno slip to prove it it turns out his web admin has really poor capabilities as his site got infected with the nimda virus and his email was unavailable! Seems to have gotten fixed so Iím emailing him now. Sheesh. Well I did find that he said while stock Saturn heads and SPS heads have a 3 angle valve job his heads have a 5 angle valve job. It is important to note that a proper valve job can make or break headwork. Itís part of the reason you usually donít want to do it yourself. Most of his parts are cheaper than SPS, and itís a welcome alternative.

A friend of mine found this, and ever since itís stayed a permanent bookmark. Not because itís notable quality. Rather because they have unique parts for Saturn, and theyíre CHEAP. I donít think Iíve found lower prices anywhere (including on ebay). Most of their parts go in without too much trouble (the gauge faces took some work, but when donít they). Most notable is their 30 dollar strut tower brace and 65 dollar intake. If you want to get started but donít have a lot of money, this is the place to start!

The first real competitor Iíve seen to SPS. Well laid out page, good product variety. They even have their own variant of the twistec turbo available! They sell some interesting things, and Iíve heard they are good quality though Iím too poor to afford much of anything. I have noted some price irregularities like some things will be drastically lower than other places, and other items will be drastically higher. Ahh the world of comparison shopping! What really set them on the map was the 55mm throttle body, and their body kit for saturns. While most of us see that body kit as a nice skirting, and not a true body kit, it is still notable nonetheless and looks rather nice in my opinion. Letís just hope Saturn doesnít sue these guys AGAIN over their website so that my link stays active.

Joey Cutrone. Youíve got to love this guy. He fights tooth and nail against Saturn, and runs a Saturn junkyard at the same time! If you need to get something at a great deal, Iíve found NO one who can match his prices. Even the shipping is reasonable! He doesnít sell performance parts yet, but it looks like he is considering it. He does have TKT and TKV cars. You will have to check his site for more info on what they are. Joe treats every customer like family and runs a good business for you to keep in mind, especially if your 1993 sl1ís water pump dies out mysteriously and you donít feel like blowing your life savings for an OEM replacement.

Thatís about all I can remember, though Iím sure there are more. Iíll be happy to add them if they let me know!

Question 3:
Where do I start?

This is a hard question to directly answer. A lot of guys have tried answering it as well, but someone is always going to disagree. Ultimately, it is up to you. In that respect Iíll try not to tell you what to buy. Rather what your options are and what pitfalls to avoid.

Youíre going to want an intake. Some kind of intake. There are many types of intakes, all of which have some kind of unique properties which make them more or less what youíre looking for. The first is an intake with a conical filter on the end. These are your standard intakes and offer good performance gains throughout the power band. However cold air really makes a difference with an intake, as does intake tube length. Too long and your system will ďlagĒ (like a turbo) while it draws in the air necessary to perform. If the air is too hot, then your car will lose valuable horsepower! My personal preference is to get an intake (any intake) and run a ďcool air ductĒ using aluminum ducting so that it always has a fresh air supply. If you buy a ram air kit, bear in mind the most effective is always going to be a hood scooped ram air setup. This is because of the shortness of the intake path, the minor compression of the air (.5 - 1.5 psi) due to velocity of the vehicle, and the direct pulling of cold air. See [url][/url] for details.

Many people get a larger throttle body for their saturns. Iíll be real honest though, I donít believe they work. See (here we go with a rant!), the larger throttle bodies will give you something called increased throttle response. This means that you require less pedal pushing to get the more air in the engine. The important thing though is that power is gained through volumetric efficiency. More importantly, TORQUE is gained through volumetric efficiency. Volumetric efficiency is gained by increasing the velocity of the air. And in a carís intake system, the velocity is inversely proportionate to the volume. Now this does have certain exceptions, so youíre not going to want your air flow to be like a needle for ďmaximum velocityĒ, so make sure you donít restrict the air flow. But itís all about finding the right balance. When buying a larger throttle body, make sure you have plenty of intake air. That way youíre eliminating a restriction. However if you just have an intake; no ram air or forced induction, my personal recommendation is just port match your existing throttle body. It will reduce turbulence and increase airflow velocity. This in turn will increase your torque. Since horsepower is a measurement of torque and rpm, you have a good chance of increasing your horsepower as well.

Garland 02-22-2002 07:00 PM

The exhaust system. Not to bad for stock, but can definitely be improved upon. Your best bet is to do this after the intake. Think about it. If the stock system handles the stock intake, when you put on a new intake youíre essentially feeding a lot more air to the engine. When you put more air into an engine, more exhaust comes out of it. So itís good to clear up that restriction. There are a lot of choices here. I would recommend 2.25 inch mandrel bend piping for naturally aspirated cars, and recommend 2.5 inch mandrel bend or 3 inch if you can get it for forced induction cars. Some people go and replace the stock catalytic converter on the Saturn with a ďhigh flowĒ cat. From what I have seen this has little to no effect on the carís performance except in the very high end. Usually itís only 3-5 horsepower. For the price tag, in my opinion, save it for when you have forced induction. Besides that the stock Saturn cat is a honey comb three catalyst converter. Itís a very good cat, especially for stock. If you have to ask what kind of muffler to get, go with this answer: THE ONE YOU CAN AFFORD. Really mufflers make a minimal difference unless theyíre the highly restrictive stock muffler. Bear in mind a muffler does just that.. It muffles sound. If you have a good bit of money and donít mind the cost, get the one that produces the sound you like! Thatís pretty much what theyíre there for.

Now for another subject I get to rant on (like this whole doc isnít a rant anyways) .. Headers.
Iím very disappointed by the Saturn aftermarket in terms of headers. Iíve seen nothing but tri-y, medium diameter, short length headers. This results in a low torque peak. See, the important thing to remember is that the longer the tube, the higher your torque peaks. The higher your torque peaks, the more horsepower you have. Granted, most of these headers are designed for mass production and are better than the stock manifold while retaining day to day drivability. However, for a true performance header, look for a 4 into 1 design with equal length runners, good construction, and long runners for good high end. However, really, thereís not a whole lot of headers out there for saturns. If you have a DOHC, youíre lucky in selection, sort of. They only offer tri-Y headers for DOHC from what Iíve seen, though there are more headers to choose from. If you have a SOHC youíre kind of out of luck. One header - The hotshot header - is available for you. Good news is it has fairly long runners and is a 4 in 1 design. Not bad for 350 dollars. If none of these headers interest you, perhaps you can go the route I plan to go when I have money (hahahhahah - like that will ever happen) .. [url][/url] .. This guy will not build your header for you. Oh no. He sells you the parts, and you build it yourself. My does he have some excellent documentation on headers. You can learn so much there! Well that about covers the exhaust system.

Ah the ignition system. This is a component you donít want failing on you, but often itís performance gains are exaggerated. Essentially if youíre finding power loss, then chances are, this is where itís at. Usually after youíve tuned up your exhaust and intake youíll find some kind of power loss. Sometimes itís as simple as the plugs. Other times itís not so simple, like the coil packs. Regardless just try to avoid the pitfall of upgrading a good system for ďbetterĒ one. I would only recommend upgrading if your current system is failing somehow.

Tires! So overlooked, however so dramatically important. Why so important? Itís the only part of your car that should be in contact with the road. You could have all the power in the world, but if your car canít properly transmit that power to the groundÖ youíre not going anywhere! So make sure you get one that fits your needs. Obviously a sticky street tire can be more pricey and provide considerably more grip. However many times they offer poor wet weather performance. In my area, it simply doesnít pay to have sticky street tires as the weather just is so horrible if I donít have something that does ok in the snow and rain I canít even drive. Another thing which is rarely considered: Drive tire rollout. Whatís drive tire rollout? Well you apply the tire diameter (including rim and sidewall height) * 3.14. This literally is a cheap way of directly affecting your final drive ratio. Many people canít figure out why theyíre getting such bad quarter miles after all their modifications. Then you find out theyíre using 17 inch rims with 1.5 inch high low profile tires. This provides a 20 inch diameter and a 62.8 drive tire rollout! Essentially think like this: the smaller the area of the tire (the rollout), the quicker you will accelerate, however the harder it will be to reach your top end. Thus in quarter mile shootouts, my program which I run on saturns to calculation optimal tuning characteristics, tires often make the difference. Iíve seen great 60 foot times on those 62.8 inch rollout tires, but horrible quarters. Yet changing JUST THE TIRE ROLLOUT I was able to adjust the quarter mile by up to 1.5 seconds every time, over and over again! So tire size optimization is definitely a factor. If you want to get the program I use, itís a shareware program called dragmax. I have all the Saturn settings in a file if you want to load them up. I will be putting them on my website soon enough.

You can find that program by going to [url][/url] and doing a search for dragmax.

Wow. If youíve tuned using all the above you are probably getting some pretty mean results! Well, letís continue!

Your oil. This is one of the most important elements in your car. Using the right oil can yield actual dyno-proven horsepower. Hereís some tips: whether a new engine, or a newly rebuilt one, when breaking an engine in (first 3000 miles, 2 oil changes - 1 at 500 the other at 3000) .. You want to always use regular oil. No synthetics. Why? The regular oil will help your engine break in properly, and avoid component failure. The synthetic oil is better in older engines, and for race engines. After that 3000 mile point feel free to switch. I do recommend switching to a synthetic. They hold up much better at high temperatures, and generally stay cleaner longer. Iíve personally found royal purple to be an excellent racing synthetic. Though a bit pricey. Itís at least 5 dollars a quart! Get what you pay for though. You really can feel it after an oil change!

Question 4:
Hey! Where are the computers above? I donít see any PCM(power train control module) upgrades!

Ok, hereís the bad news: there are no direct PCM upgrades per se. There are workarounds we found, but no direct upgrade. The reason is Saturnís programmers were extensively anal and soldered EVERYTHING they could, in addition to making their .bin files a nightmare to reprogram.

Hereís the good news: The Saturn PCM controls fuel delivery and engine ignition timing. Using some well placed alternatives you can get the results you seek.

The first thing I recommend though is the Saturn SC2 Auto PCM swap. This PCM will work in any Saturn, and removes the rev limiter. In addition to that, it also puts the top speed at 124mph. That should be more than enough for you. For now. After doing that, if you want to tune your fuel delivery there are two ways:

The mega squirt DIY (do it yo-self) kit: They do sell fully assembled ones, and they offer a serial port interface to your computer/laptop for tuning. Very neat stuff. Datalogging comes as a feature as well and should not be overlooked. This device uses some very simple concepts to work and as a result on the relative few machines that have used it have had great success. Itís a relative newcomer. I donít recommend it if you donít want to risk any engine failure though.

And The AíPexi super afc. This device looks cool, functions really well, and is kind of costly. But you donít have to build it yourself, and itís a hell of a lot neater to see itís display than that ugly black box.. No computer interface that I know of though.

For ignition control most of us an MDIS II (I think thatís the right designation) ignition control system. Allows advancement or retardation of the spark so as to tune for optimal performance.

I found an all in one ECU (engine control unit) which is essentially for racecars since itís likely your windshield wipers and other amenities might quit functioning. This is a replacement for the stock Saturn pcm. No rev limiter, no speed limiter. It allows full datalogging, spark advance/retard, and fuel control. It works on a variety of engines (even ours). You might need to make provisions for a 60 tooth crank trigger though. Itís about 1 grand and offers a host of addons. Itís called the haltech e6k. [url][/url] for more info.

Garland 02-22-2002 07:03 PM

Question 5:
Ok, enough of these little mods. Whereís the BIG stuff?

You have several common choices which I will outline for you. Thereís more available, but most of it is far more exotic.

Option one is a turbo. Our engines take exceedingly well to turbos from what Iíve seen, as long as you have no headwork done. As always a turbo conversion should be taken with quite a bit of research, but there are quite a few kits out there. Thereís the CCA kit, the twistec kit, the firepower performance kit, and the TKT kit. These are just a few for starters. These kits usually push 5-7 psi of boost for starters. They offer a host of options. Incidentally, if youíre running stock internals, and a stock fuel pump, you only want to run 5-7 psi. Also, donít run your car into a rev limiter, as the fuel will be cut off and BOOM. Detonation. The saturns with turbos seem to do exceedingly well in drag fests. Most of them put down around 170-190hp at the wheels after a turbo as well. So itís worth the money. I talked with one owner who had forged internals, and was pushing 10psi of boost for a whopping 247 hp at the wheels. Now THAT is power.

Websites for those:

The second option is a supercharger. Not nearly as many options on this one, though some do exist.
[url][/url] is in development of one, and [url][/url] has a supercharger mounting kit for a vortech supercharger from Thomas Knight Turbos (TKT).

You can try getting a naturally aspirated monster built up. I find natural aspiration to be the most fun. No turbo lag, no excessive engine wear, and good power. Proper headwork and tuning can yield massive power gains. Some guys bore out their engine to 2.0 liters and get some pistons to accommodate the new size for even more power.

Then thereís the bottle. Yep, ďnawseĒ. Nitrous. The magic giggle-gas-go fast crack. Two systems: a nitrous wet kit and a dry kit. A dry kit is cheaper, and a little more dangerous. But really both are quite safe if used properly. The big thing is making sure you donít run out of fuel. Like if the rev limiter kicks and no fuel is delivered but nitro is still spraying, then youíre going to have a blown engine. And I donít mean forced induction. I recommend an RPM window switch, coupled with whatever kit of choice you have. Also you might want a bottle warmer. Bottle blankets seem to do nothing. Actually the guy to ask on this one is Fonzo. Heís practically set the standard for NOS on our cars. Heís also the moderator on the NOS and Forced induction message board forum. Ask him a question, get a crazy fonzo answer J

Well that about covers revision one of this document. Any additions, retractions, *****es, complaints, can be sent to [email][/email]

Please put ďSaturn Newbie GuideĒ as the title if you could. I get a lot of email.

Have a nice day!

Garland 02-23-2002 12:14 AM

Incidentally I'd REALLY appreciate any input, suggestions, comments flames so I can update this doc. I've gotten a few but I want to update them all in one shot.

Thanks again!

zucchini5k 02-23-2002 01:52 PM

Twistec's website is [url][/url]

Garland 02-23-2002 05:16 PM

gah and I forgot to update with the right firepower website!

(had them in there as placeholders and never put in the right ones)..

Mac Gyver 02-26-2002 05:22 AM

I didn't read the whole thing but i feel it was well put.

i cant stress SRC and 6th Planet ehough, as well as i really cant.

And 6th planet is working on some performance stuff, i wont say what just cus, its his thing and i rather he let the cat out of the bag, BUT i promise there good. and if you threw on some goodies from've found the secret to multiple oorgasims!

Knightmare 05-08-2002 12:44 AM

Just wanted to let you know that a newbie has just benefited from your info. Great job man!

BRI'S98SL-2 05-08-2002 01:06 AM

hey that stuff was great. it would be cool if you put other opinons in there as well, not just what you think but what you have hear other people say. so give more option/opinions on a topic (i know its hard cause you believe what you believe is the best). some prices may be helpful for cheap newbies (or college students, like me). overall what a super idea, i think you should ask charlie if you could keep that as a permanent post at the top of the thread listings. :flag:

project_sl-2 05-08-2002 10:35 AM

Good job Garland. I didn't know about the PCM swap. Does it really work? how bout on a 5-spd SL ? Allow me to correct you on one thing though. A stock Miata would blow the doors off a Satty. The power to weight ratios are VERY different. (19.38 for the SL-2 19.65 for the Coupe and 16.81 for the Miata. BUT DONT FEAR NEWBIES I will show you the way. WEIGHT REDUCTION!!! You wanna smoke that tincan of a car this is how you do it and it's FREE!!! Here it goes
1. Do you have AAA? Then what are you doing w/ that spare and jack still in your trunk? 5min and your about 30lbs lighter
2. Look under you back bumper opposite your muffler. See that tow hitch lookin loop? get the ratchet out cause you'll NEVER NEED IT. If you use it you risk damage to your frame. 10min and your 5lbs lighter (I weighed it, every little it counts! )
3. A/C are you really using it? I know some can't live W/O it but if you hate getting beat by Miata boy then you CAN'T live WITH it. The whole system weighs about 50+ lbs. Some pay good money on ebay for it! BUT HAVE A PRO DO IT! Freeon in the ozone is not good! The "man" frowns upon that!
4. Air bags. HIGHLY ILLEGAL! (only if you get caught in the process of taking them out ! ) the driver and passenger units combined weight about 30lbs (don't forget to take out the control module under the center console) the fact is air bags are dangerous and unreliable. THEY DO WORK but only if you are a test dummy (ie. perfect driving position, height, weight, and distance from bag) you can get seriously hurt from airbags (im sure you've heard stories. WANT SAFTEY hock the system on e-bay (you can probaly get $250 for it) and buy racing harness (which buy the way now you can get rid of the heavy factory belts) 1hr. and close to 50lbs.
5. This is a touchy subject for MANY....Stereo. Do you know 6.5 speakers on avg. weigh about 10lbs. thats 40lbs altogether. GOT SUBS? now that your rid of speakers I guess you won't be needin those amps headunit and CD changer. ( It's up to you BUMP THE BASS or get burned by ricey?) Let your Car be you sound!! w/ the money you'll get by sellin you system (or by not putting one in ) you can buy parts rrRRRAAA rrRRRRAAAAAtsss (is that a turbo? ) :yes:
5.5 Now your car looks like the mexicans hit it! what are you going to do? My steering wheel looks crappy! :tear: Take the money you got for the air bag and buy a new wheel ( now you can include the whole wheel w/ the a/b system =more value ) where your head unit used to be.. Gages and the other air bag? I DONT KNOW ITS YOU CAR GET CREATIVE!!
Now that your about 200 lbs lighter your new ratio is 17.77 I know thats not enough yet to beat that Miata yet but you where planning on bolting on some performance right? Ok then lets say you bolt on intake and exhaust and say that put on about 11bhp (thats reasonable) now you got 135 hp a 2200 lb car 16.32 power to weight ratio and guess what else? That Mazda Miata in you rear view! :cool: OH AND AS FOR HONDA BOY!.. an EX civic couldn't touch you BEFORE you moded your car so DONT SWEAT IT but look out for the REAL Si's :whoa: but then again...

eRic 02sc2 05-08-2002 11:31 AM

one more thing to add. get a set of Saturn factory service manuals. they are worth the $$$ in not having us telling you to RTFM when you ask how to change the spark plugs or what fluid goes in the hole under the 710 cap.

BRI'S98SL-2 05-08-2002 12:23 PM

has anyone purchased the intake system from that it looks really enticing because it is inexpensive. I wish they had more info on it, like if the filter is K&N and stuff like that. and if it comes with directions (shouldnt be that hard).
project sl2.... good ideas to lose some extra baggage. but stereo system??? how can you live without music?? I guess if you really want to beat those ricers...

project_sl-2 05-08-2002 01:03 PM

Like I said Bri it's all up to you and what you like. The beats are nice to have, don't get me wrong, but for the sake of performance get a NICE head unit a small amp and just put some good 6.5's in and leave out the Subs and big amps! As for you CD changer (if you have one) put it where your passenger airbag was. If your going to have the stereo and still want to be fast you have to be smart about it ;)
By the way, another cheap but GREAT alternative to buying an intake is go to you local parts dealer and Buy the APC cone filter (open end would be the best choice ) they're like $20 then go to the hardware store and get a peice of PVC piping ( I used the 2.5 in adapter fitting and bored it out w/ the dremel) take the factory air box and such out BUT LEAVE THE BLACK INTAKE TUBE. (that's the large peice of hose that connects to the Throttle Body).
Next, take you Air filter and connect it to the PVC using the hose clamp they gave you.
Finally attach the "assembly" to the factory hose. Vualah you have an intake. You'll notice the power difference right away and you get that *lovely* intake growl we all love :D
If indeed you do get the open end filter you can hook yourself up w/ cold air ram intake by investing in some aluminum heating duct hose while your getting your PVC. Attach the hose to the open end how ever you see fit then run the hose where ever you like ( I would suggest one of the "fog light opening" in the facia (grill). Obviously I don't have dyno figures but with nothing more than this set up and weight reduction (the radio and air conditioning where still in along with Driver airbag but the rear seats and door panels where taken out which equals out to be about the same) I ran a 15.71 w/ a .601 R/T (it was my first time racing at a track) I suggest giving it a try and see how you like it after all it's less than $30 for every thing. ;)

Garland 05-08-2002 01:13 PM

Just my experience - don't use PVC pipe - use ABS plastic or aluminum. PVC pipe will melt down under high temperature (200+ deg f or so) .. and form several toxic substances including chlorine gas - which is lethal.

project_sl-2 05-08-2002 01:30 PM

I didn't know that. If that's the case, what he said. by the way PVC is the white stuff right? That's what I used and it was fine, my brother inlaw made a whole intake out of the stuff (which I wouldn't suggest :no: ) and it didn't melt. I don't think it would get hot enough to do so because of the fact that it's being cooled down by the air and I don't think the engine compartment would get hott enough to allow for it. Not like it's sitting next to or on top of the exhaust manifold. The ABS plastic still sounds better though. can you get it from the hardware store? :dizzy:

Garland 05-08-2002 01:34 PM

Honestly I haven't had any problems with it either .. yet.

I'm just recommending people don't take the chance - I don't think someone would want a first hand experience with world-war one style deadly gases :-/

I personally prefer safer than sorry.

Also if you leave the stock airbox in and remove the resonator - make sure you remove the two little hangars that were holding the resonator in place that are located on the side of the air box below the radiator hose. I received a recommendation from someone who did the remove resonator mod who didn't trim them down - the car's vibration caused the radiator hose to develop a hole by rubbing it against those two brackets. Then he had catastrophic engine overheating :-( .. so always try to think ahead on this kind of thing

eRic 02sc2 05-08-2002 01:41 PM

deebs made an intake tube out of pvc pipe once too. it was constructed from a k&n cone and plumbing parts from a hardware store. the glue used to attach pipes together will give you a buzz (don't ask..) so don't put it together in the basement with the windows shut. oh yeah check this out. from a honduh site. how to make a diy aem style intake.

project_sl-2 05-08-2002 02:10 PM

That's not bad and for a FULL COLD AIR INDUCTION system. It's a little bit more expensive but it's cheaper than you can get some crappy short ram for and this is a much higher quality peice I would say !:yes: Granted it's for a honda But there's no reason we can't do the same thing. We should come up w/ good instructions for the satties and pics. I think this would be VERY useful. Thanks Eric

Hazards 05-08-2002 08:19 PM

what all is neede dto change out pcm's? the sc2 auto will work in an sc1 manual? does it matter what year? how easy is it to switch out, and is that the ecu or sumthin else? if anyone can git me a pic it would be helpful :dizzy:

DOHCdude 05-08-2002 10:20 PM

what is gralands site, i'd like to be able to reference to some of that.

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