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Old 05-12-2007, 11:42 AM   #1
sl2clone
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Default L300 Timing Belt Change

What is a reasonable price to have this done , what is the change interval and is the water pump driven by the belt?
My ex wife has about 112K on hers now. SHould it be done very soon?

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Old 05-12-2007, 12:43 PM   #2
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sl2clone View Post
What is a reasonable price to have this done , what is the change interval and is the water pump driven by the belt?
My ex wife has about 112K on hers now. SHould it be done very soon?
yes it should be done..if u do a search here.....the people who have done them have seen both extremes when changing them at 100K. Either almost about to break or no wear at all.

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Old 05-12-2007, 01:25 PM   #3
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sl2clone View Post
What is a reasonable price to have this done , what is the change interval and is the water pump driven by the belt?
My ex wife has about 112K on hers now. SHould it be done very soon?

Labour should be 3-4 hours. Can't rememebr for sure at the moment.

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Old 05-12-2007, 04:46 PM   #4
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

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Originally Posted by ssicarman View Post
Labour should be 3-4 hours. Can't rememebr for sure at the moment.
We charge 5.3 for the belt and water pump to be replaced.... And no, the water pump is serp belt driven, but it is mounted on the block under the timing cover, which is why they get replaced then, even if not leaking @ 100k.

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Old 05-12-2007, 10:44 PM   #5
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Thanks man. thats what i wanted to know. Since it's behind the cover I agree it gets replaced wether leaking or not. Cheap insurance.
I'll let her know tomorrow.

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Old 05-15-2007, 11:08 PM   #6
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

My car is in the shop now, just got timing belt done..it cost me about $400.
This should be done at 100k miles according the mechanic. Cuz once this belt breaks, everything else cud break.

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Old 07-17-2007, 09:33 AM   #7
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Changed L300 timing belt, water pump, and main accessory belt myself this weekend! (mine is a 2001, and it just hit 100K miles). And yes, it ran perfectly afterwards. After finding out that the dealer wanted over $1100 to do these 3 things, I decided to do it myself. I had read some helpful posts on this forum, and have the Haynes manual also. It cost about $250 for the parts, so you save a bundle. Also, I didn’t use the specialty tool(s) – I think these are designed as a “mistake proofing” method to make it easier and faster for mechanics who do this job on a routine basis, but if you’re VERY careful, and check your work (and you’re pretty good with your hands) you can do it. But….I wouldn’t recommend this job for someone who isn’t mechanically inclined. I used vice grips to lock the camshaft wheels (someone else had posted some pics of this, and it worked perfectly, just don’t clamp them too hard, you don’t want to stress or bend the camshaft’s toothed wheel).
The water pump and main accessory belt are pretty easy, but you do have to be really careful changing out the timing belt, mainly in 2 key areas:
1) Make sure that before you remove the belt, that you get the crankshaft rotated so that you have cylinder #1 at TDC – you do this by slowly turning it until the timing marks on the camshaft wheels are lined up with the timing marks on the cover. Be careful to mark which of the 2 timing marks is on each camshaft wheel, since there are 2 (there are good illustrations of this in the Haynes manual). Note – I didn’t remove the plugs like they recommended, because I wanted to keep compression in the cylinders, which keeps the crankshaft locked in place really well. It makes a little harder to turn the crank, but you should get the TDC alignment done before you remove the crankshaft belt pulley, so you can use the pulley to turn the crankshaft.
2) There are 3 idlers/tensioners that the belt runs over, an upper, lower, and main. If you understand how they work and are adjusted, it makes the change out a lot easier – I couldn’t find any explanations of this anywhere, so thought I’d put it out here so it might help someone else. All of them pivot around an eccentric “cam” type mount, so rotating the tensioner changes the amount of tension, mainly on the section of the belt where that tensioner is located. Before loosening any of them, I made a mark with a permanent marker on each one, and then made a sketch on a paper to show the exact orientation of each one – i.e., upper tensioner mark at 2 o’clock, lower at 10 o’clock. You don’t have to worry about the main tensioner, since it has a small cam with built in alignment marks, and should be set at 3-4mm, as indicated in the Haynes book. You adjust it by turning the center portion with an Allen key, and then tighten the bolt to lock it.
I noticed that as I released tension on the belt over the front cylinders (3&4), the #3 camwheel actually moved about a half tooth (even with the vice grips installed), so be sure to observe the belt carefully as you remove it, so you can compensate when you put it back.
So, the key thing as you re-install the belt is to make sure that the belt is fairly tight between each pulley or toothed sprocket, when the upper and lower tensioners are set at their original position when you took them off. Then you finish setting the overall tension with the main tensioner, which has the built in alignment mark. Double check everything just to be sure. Hope this helps someone out there, and good luck!
P.S. I also made a PowerPoint file with the some pics that I found on various sites that were really helpful, you can email me if you would like a copy (the file was too big to include in this post)

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Old 07-17-2007, 09:50 AM   #8
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

how did the belt look when u took it off? And how are ur driving habits?

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Old 07-17-2007, 11:10 AM   #9
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

I did mine myself too. I waited to 120k out of ignorance. I used zip ties to lock the cams in place. I used them between holes in the cams in an X and also on the top and bottom of the X where there is a hole at each of the four ends of the X. It worked beautifully for me and the cams didn't budge at all. The other technique I used was to make a mark with a white paint pen on the cam and the old belt at a tooth near the TDC marks on all four cams and on the crank (I also noted the tensioner positions before loosening them) . Then I counted the number of teeth in the belt between each location. After I removed the belt, I transfered the marks to the new belt and replaced the belt. Then I made sure that I still had the correct number of teeth between locations. Worked perfectly and I have already put 60k on it since. My belt was in bad shape when I got to it, but my water pump was bad and I think that may have caused the belt to degrade. If you replace the timing belt, don't even think about not doing the water pump too. It is cheap and you have to remove the belt to replace anyway.

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Old 07-17-2007, 10:05 PM   #10
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

My ex's L300 is now at over 150K and she still hasn't done the belt yet!!
ANybody in or near the SYracuse NY area willing to do this? I trust people on this forum. I haven't met bed people here yet.
I OD NOT and WILL NOT do a timing belt. It's against EVERYTHING I stand for! STupid saab engine!
You know why we got our 1st S series? I NEVER have to work on them (other than my own) and they were chain driven. My S series is working on being the bets car I ever owned. Still not surpassing my 86 Pontiac 6000 with the Tech4 2.5. SLow as can be. BUt ungodly reliable.
Wanna change her belt and WP? I might even pay for it if reasonable. I owe her $$ from the divorce.

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Old 07-31-2007, 07:02 PM   #11
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

I have a 99 SL with 128K. Is the single cam timing belt similar, should replace the waterpump also? I intend to do all the work myself and am pretty handy.

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Old 07-31-2007, 07:11 PM   #12
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

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Originally Posted by super7ball View Post
I have a 99 SL with 128K. Is the single cam timing belt similar, should replace the waterpump also? I intend to do all the work myself and am pretty handy.
you have a timing chain and the water pump is not anywhere near it (it's about 8 inches to the right of the harmonic balancer.) totally different animal!

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Old 07-31-2007, 07:15 PM   #13
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sl2clone View Post
My ex's L300 is now at over 150K and she still hasn't done the belt yet!!
ANybody in or near the SYracuse NY area willing to do this? I trust people on this forum. I haven't met bed people here yet.
I OD NOT and WILL NOT do a timing belt. It's against EVERYTHING I stand for! STupid saab engine!
You know why we got our 1st S series? I NEVER have to work on them (other than my own) and they were chain driven. My S series is working on being the bets car I ever owned. Still not surpassing my 86 Pontiac 6000 with the Tech4 2.5. SLow as can be. BUt ungodly reliable.
Wanna change her belt and WP? I might even pay for it if reasonable. I owe her $$ from the divorce.
not a Saab engine, in this car 3.0 V6 is from OPEL of Europe. In Saturn training the 3.0 engine is a two day ordeal out of the total two week class. The redline Ion got the Saab motor (it's casted into the oil pan!)

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Old 08-01-2007, 10:48 AM   #14
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

If you have a timing belt on an S series then there is a serious problem.
ANd why do you say the redline has a saab engine? From what I understand the ecotec is a global engine and is used in ALL GM brands now. It was ajoint collaberation between all of GMs branches to make one versatile 4 banger rather than have 23 different 4 bangers in it's corporate holdings. The engine may be saab derived but can't be completely saab. I still say it looks like a revised quad 4.
ANd why would the L series have an opel engine? It's just rebadged lower priced saab.

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Old 08-01-2007, 08:37 PM   #15
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

According to http://www.wikipedia.com both the V6 and the eco-tec are Opel Designs. I have eco-tecs in both of my L's, great gas mileage, good power and the easiest oil change in the industry. My next car will have this engine also.

Brian

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Old 08-01-2007, 09:49 PM   #16
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

I wish I could remember where I read it was a global joint venture on the engine to make a global use 4 banger. Somebody on here posted a link to this site.
SO far it seems to be leaps and bounds above the quad4 which it VERY closely resembles. The quad4 was fast. It also fell apart fast. Thermostats sucked to change. ANd the water pumps MEGA sucked to change.
It just seems really odd that they would rebadge a saab and stick an opel engine in it. Did the saab 9-3 ever get a 3.0 V6?

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Old 08-01-2007, 09:54 PM   #17
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

I'm also curious what your timing belt looked like after 100k miles and also how did you hold up the engine after removing the mount on the left side?

My 2003 L300 has 110,000 miles and still the original timing belt. I realize I am pushing my luck.

Don

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Old 08-02-2007, 06:27 PM   #18
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

My belt look worn, but not really bad at just over 100K - just some tiny hairline cracking; normal wear. I'm an engineer, so I'm sure there is some safety margin in there, maybe 5k-10k miles, but I would worry letting it go much more than that.
I just held up the engine by using a jack with a soft block of wood under the engine - it worked great.

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Old 08-02-2007, 08:35 PM   #19
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by sl2clone View Post
I wish I could remember where I read it was a global joint venture on the engine to make a global use 4 banger. Somebody on here posted a link to this site.
SO far it seems to be leaps and bounds above the quad4 which it VERY closely resembles. The quad4 was fast. It also fell apart fast. Thermostats sucked to change. ANd the water pumps MEGA sucked to change.
It just seems really odd that they would rebadge a saab and stick an opel engine in it. Did the saab 9-3 ever get a 3.0 V6?
The engine in the redline ion is the same engine that was in the saab 9-3 viggen, instead of the turbo they bolted the supercharger on. I still think it would have been way better with the turbo....viggens are very fast stock! When you think "L" car think same as Cadillac Catera, same engine too. The L-car in Europe was called the Opel Vectra.......check it out you'll see the L-car was not a Saab variation. Although the Redline motor looks like the Ecotec it only displaces 2.0 liters and carries a different engine code.

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Old 08-02-2007, 09:27 PM   #20
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Default Re: L300 timing belt change

Not trying to pick a fight here but can you show me proof the L series is an opel vectra? I know the catera was a rebadged vectra (or was it an opel astra?) and is rear drive. WHen I look at the shape similarities and the underpinnings of the saab 9-3 (I believe) and the L series there is NO difference at all. They are dead identical. I have been told and I think I read the saab and L are the same car. Just different engines. Biggest difference is the saabs EAT tires and the L series don't. Go figure. Or are the vectra and the saab the same car as well?
The ecotecs would all have different designations becasue they are different displacements right? 2.0 forced induction , 2.2 NA and 2.4 NA.
I didn't know the Viggen was a turbo 2.0 ecotec. I thought it was a V6 model. SO it the 2.0 ecotec in the viggen boosted more than in just a regular 2.0 turbo saab?

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