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Old 05-10-2007, 09:39 PM   #1
kwguy
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Default Drilled and slotted rotors

So I've read the info on cross drilled and/or slotted rotors. What I want to know is how hard is it to machine them when they become warped? Can the brake lathe at the local parts store handle them or do I need to go to a specialty shop?

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Old 05-10-2007, 10:31 PM   #2
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwguy View Post
So I've read the info on cross drilled and/or slotted rotors. What I want to know is how hard is it to machine them when they become warped? Can the brake lathe at the local parts store handle them or do I need to go to a specialty shop?
just plain don't machine them. if they went through a set of brake pads without cracking consider urself lucky and buy ur next set of rotors before they fall apart on u.

if u machine them then ur really asking for trouble.

...
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Old 05-10-2007, 10:57 PM   #3
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

^ uh yea okay....

anyway. If you get QUALITY slotted rotors, or drilled rotors, they will last you a good while under normal conditions. A lot of people, including myself, run powerslots, and they are a good product.

And no, they are not able to be turned / machined etc.

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Old 05-10-2007, 10:59 PM   #4
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

drilled rotors - FAQ's
http://www.drilledrotor.com/drilledpage.html

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Old 05-11-2007, 12:03 AM   #5
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Happy Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

For what it may be worth-

I have had rotors (and drums) machined in the past but stopped doing that long ago. No matter what they look like, if they are warped (pulsing brakes) I throw them away and buy new ones.

I have found that if they are warped in the first place (or have high/low wear spots) they will simply go bad again, and will do so very quickly. There is something in their makeup that causes them to be susceptable. Casting flaws perhaps?

Also for what it may be worth, I have also used ATE "power rotors" on another car. This type of rotor has a rather unique oval groove machined onto both sides of the rotor faces. The oval grooves are supposed to dissipate gasses and cool the pads while presenting a uniform wear surface to the pads.

I found these "power rotors" to be utterly useless after trying two sets and therefore have never used them again. They warped much faster and far more severely than regular rotors (car- 84 300SD MBZ front/rear). I went back to plain rotors (ATEs) with Pagid pads and was happy with them.

I don't believe they are quite the same as slotted rotors that the other folks mentioned though. You might want to try a good set of them.

The only experiences I have had with drilled rotors were on motorcycles, where they performed very well. I have not tried them on cars personally.

On my Saturn I use (gasp-choke) cheap rotors from Autozone. So far with about 4500 miles of heavy stop and go commute traffic on them they are working perfectly. Quiet, smooth and positive. Time will tell though. Ask me after 10,000 more miles.

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Old 05-11-2007, 01:37 AM   #6
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliArt16 View Post
^ uh yea okay....

anyway. If you get QUALITY slotted rotors, or drilled rotors, they will last you a good while under normal conditions. A lot of people, including myself, run powerslots, and they are a good product.

And no, they are not able to be turned / machined etc.
powerslots aren't drilled sherlock.


btw anyone else with greenstuff pads notice extreme rotor wear? i got brand new rotors when i installed the pads, and they are wearing even and everything... but the pads are about half gone and so are the rotors... on the rotors i have inside edge, aka piston side, starts out about 1/3 thicker than the outside edge, and now its thinner than the outside edge.

...
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Currently own a 02 L200 with no plans to mod.

Last edited by xupthree60; 05-11-2007 at 01:42 AM..

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Old 05-11-2007, 09:32 AM   #7
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

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Originally Posted by eRic 02sc2 View Post
Awesome link!

And this link address the "warped" rotor myth too.

...
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Old 05-11-2007, 01:31 PM   #8
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom92SCm View Post
Awesome link!

And this link address the "warped" rotor myth too.
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

...
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Old 05-11-2007, 02:00 PM   #9
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Well, when i brake, I get the pulsing. I was told the rotors were warped, but I guess that's false. They have also started squeaking a little sometimes. I checked the pads not long ago and they had a little bit of life left in them. If new rotors are only a temporary fix, what should I do?

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Old 05-11-2007, 02:16 PM   #10
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by eRic 02sc2 View Post
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
I've tried preaching that same link over the years and it seems like it always falls on deaf ears (or blind eyes as the case may be). So I pretty much gave up trying.

...
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Old 05-11-2007, 03:18 PM   #11
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Not proferring an opinion or taking a position. I dont race or autocross my 01 SL 5-sp. At 98,000 miles still have 3/16" left on the ORIGINAL factory front pads (according to Big O Tires, who wanted $300 to "do the front"). As the rotors seem AOK, I will go to the Stealer and have the factory pads replaced with same. Just basking in my 36 mpg average at the sight of all the 6,000lb SUVs blazing away at 80 mph in the fast lane. How long does their junk last ??

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Old 05-20-2007, 10:54 AM   #12
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

I have an 01 SC2 and when I got it I very quickly warped the rotors. I am not one to be hard on my breaks but I also didnt want to deal with it. So I called saturn motor sports and talked to then. I now have the Stillen drilled and sloted rotors on the front, and soon to have the same on the rear once I get all the harware for the conversion. from my understanding you should never try and use drilled or sloted rotors more then once and always make sure the pads are not a harder compound then the rotors. Also Sloted only helps with the initial bite on breaking to release the gasses that may build up between rotor and pad. The drilled is to allow air to flow thrue and help cool the rotors. Stillen reports about a 12ft stopping diference with just the front rotor upgrade. If you are wanting to help reduce break fade even more then get the steel braided break hosses. I hope this was some help to you all, all this is information i was told from saturn motor sports and other performance places and my own xp. You are able to get the big break kit also but you need rims no less then 17in. Reported imp on average is about 40ft from about 65 mph if my memory serves me right.

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Old 05-20-2007, 01:04 PM   #13
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by RalliArt16 View Post
^ uh yea okay....


And no, they are not able to be turned / machined etc.
I can't speak for all companies and what they state, but I know I've had drilled rotors turned before. As a matter of fact it was done by the dealer, as they had to turn them to within a certain spec before they could sell them.

I see no reason a slotted rotor couldn't be turned just as easily.

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Old 05-20-2007, 02:15 PM   #14
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by Khellendrose View Post
The drilled is to allow air to flow thrue and help cool the rotors.
riiiiiiiiight


Quote:
Originally Posted by Khellendrose View Post
If you are wanting to help reduce break fade even more then get the steel braided break hosses.
How would this help even more? Do you even know what causes brake fade?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Khellendrose View Post
I hope this was some help to you all, all this is information i was told from saturn motor sports.....
Always leading the way in the Saturn community as always.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Khellendrose View Post
Reported imp on average is about 40ft from about 65 mph if my memory serves me right.
What's "imp"? Are you saying it took you only 40 ft to stop from 65 mph? Are you even aware of how short of a distance that actually is? Good tires play much more of a role in braking distance than brake pad/rotor style.

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Old 05-20-2007, 02:21 PM   #15
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

The local city we service buy our Slotted and drilled rotors for their Crown Vic Police cars....they have the rotors turned 1 time. I don't know of any failures on any that have been turned. And I would definitely know about it, and the machine shop doing it wouldn't do it if they were unsafe. I've seen him reject doing stuff before because of the possiblility of part failure.

Regards Sonny

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Old 05-20-2007, 05:03 PM   #16
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwguy View Post
So I've read the info on cross drilled and/or slotted rotors. What I want to know is how hard is it to machine them when they become warped? Can the brake lathe at the local parts store handle them or do I need to go to a specialty shop?
not sure. never tried it. my rotors wore out as soon as the pads did, so i just swapped everything.

unless you're going for a show car, avoid anything but solid rotors...


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Old 05-20-2007, 10:12 PM   #17
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

It's time to do my brakes, my rotors are warped and my pads are about gone. I'm planning on going with the cheap rotors, and greenstuff pads, I think. Are they good for street use? Also, can I get them at Schucks/Kragen or AZ?

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Old 05-21-2007, 01:12 AM   #18
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Thumbs Up Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

FWIW my cheap AZ rotors are well over 5K miles now and are still silky smooth. I am using "metallic" pads, also from AZ. They make a lot of brake dust, but what the heck?

So far the only time they have squeeled was when they and the rest of the car were filthy dirty after a pouring rain storm. I sprayed them down as part of the next car wash and they were quiet again. Go figure.

AZ is not my favorite parts dealer for various reasons, but I will buy things there when I take the old parts in with me to compare.

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Old 05-21-2007, 10:48 AM   #19
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Default Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

i really think it depends a lot on what pads u use.

if u use some high dust el cheapo pads then its not gonna tear up ur rotors as much as a high performance pad

im using green stuff on el cheapo rotors and my pads and my rotors are both about half worn down

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Old 05-27-2007, 11:47 PM   #20
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Thumbs Up Re: Drilled and slotted rotors

Yes, of course, softer pads = longer rotor life. I'll trade shorter pad life for longer rotor life any day of the week, just so long as they stop the car quickly, smoothly, and of course safely. It is a lot cheaper and faster to replace pads than rotors or pads + rotors.

Of course I do not autocross race my car either like a number of people on this forum apparently do. If I did I would be looking for a much higher performance combination and could accept greater rotor wear as part of the bargain.

So far the "cheap" Autozone pads and rotors have worked well for me on this car. I now have over 6k miles on them including some severe and prolonged downhill braking on I-80 west of Reno. They are still smooth, quiet and stop the car very well....knock on wood.

Cheers!

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