S-Series Automatic Transaxle "Reverse Slam Cure-All"

[CND_SC1]

Originally Posted by plastic torpedo

Valve bodies come in Type1 and Type2 variations..

How do you know which type replacement to shop for? Is it series specific? Or is there a decal somewhere that tells you which Valve Body is meant for your car?

[plastic torpedo]

The valve body type can be determined by going to Sonnax website. They have pictures and they've highlighted the differences between the two. They, however, failed to mention which year S-series use which. Their website is a lot of help when it comes to that stuff.

I rebuilt my valve body and I had pictures that show how to do it and what to test, but I dropped my old cell phone in water and the pics are gone now. You will be able to tell the difference between your old boost valve and a new one if you're rebuilding. The old one will leak really bad. I was surprised.

[traumadog]

Just curious - anyone know the torque setting for the electrical connector to the transmission valve body? (This is the one with the 8mm bolt, on top)

Since it's plastic, I'd hate to crack it by over-tightening.

[plastic torpedo]

I'd like to add for those who need more detailed instructions on replacing the valve body, those can be found here

Also, type 1 valve bodies were only used in 1991 - early 1992 S-series, everything that's a late 1992 or above will use the same type 2 valve body, doesn't matter if SOHC or DOHC

[MotorMan]

19. Using extra care not to damage the bottom gasket move the new Valve Body into place. At the same time lift the Manual Valve Link slightly so it is inline with the corresponding hole in Manual Valve. The plastic clip must face toward the front of the car. Now carefully place the Valve body in position.

I've pulled a valve body out of a junkyard, and I am unsure of the reference to the Manual Valve link. Also, the plastic clip? I've been searching for a schematic so I make sure this is installed properly. At the junkyard, it unbolted and slid out easily.......did I miss something?>

[plastic torpedo]

assuming the valve body that you have is a type 2, the manual valve from your original valve body will slide into the replacement just fine. i haven't heard of those manual valves breaking at all. yours might not have the plastic tip. you will know what to do when you have the valve body cover off.

the whole manual valve and spring lever ordeal can probably be skipped and ignored, this is just making the whole process more confusing. everything is very straight forward, almost like changing your oil filter and oil, or replacing the headlight assembly.

[OU812]

Originally Posted by plastic torpedo

assuming the valve body that you have is a type 2, the manual valve from your original valve body will slide into the replacement just fine. i haven't heard of those manual valves breaking at all. yours might not have the plastic tip. you will know what to do when you have the valve body cover off.
.

I just recieved my valve body. Im still totally confused as to what the manual valve looks like and what it slides into . Can someone draw a diagram as to what connects to what.

[plastic torpedo]

The manual valve is the long stick that slides freely in and out of the valve body and sometimes it has a plastic tip on the end. The "stick" is on the "back" of the valve body if you were looking at it from the top while it's inside the transmission and the front was the front of the car.

I just did another one of these nut-jobs on my second saturn and have more updated pics on how to get that cover off without having to grind the frame. This is a job that can be done solo without any help from anybody. I got a few tricks now

[OU812]

Originally Posted by plastic torpedo

The manual valve is the long stick that slides freely in and out of the valve body and sometimes it has a plastic tip on the end. The "stick" is on the "back" of the valve body if you were looking at it from the top while it's inside the transmission and the front was the front of the car.

I just did another one of these nut-jobs on my second saturn and have more updated pics on how to get that cover off without having to grind the frame. This is a job that can be done solo without any help from anybody. I got a few tricks now

On the VB i just received from central valve bodies when i look at the back of the VB there is a hole with a metal disk in it, it has a little hole in it,
is this where the manual valve goes or is this in fact the manual valve and all i have to do is connect the selector pin, is there also some sort of spring that i have to remove from the original VB and use it on the new VB somewhere?

[plastic torpedo]

Originally Posted by OU812

On the VB i just received from central valve bodies when i look at the back of the VB there is a hole with a metal disk in it, it has a little hole in it,
is this where the manual valve goes or is this in fact the manual valve and all i have to do is connect the selector pin, is there also some sort of spring that i have to remove from the original VB and use it on the new VB somewhere?

I think the selector pin you are referring to is in fact the manual valve. Don't touch that disk, that's the boost valve. It will put a hole in your head if you try to take it apart without knowing there's a huge spring under great pressure in there.

In this picture the manual valve is the "stick" sitting next to the valve body:



And in this one you can see where it slides in inside the valve body:

[OU812]

Originally Posted by plastic torpedo

I think the selector pin you are referring to is in fact the manual valve. Don't touch that disk, that's the boost valve. It will put a hole in your head if you try to take it apart without knowing there's a huge spring under great pressure in there.

In this picture the manual valve is the "stick" sitting next to the valve body:



And in this one you can see where it slides in inside the valve body:

Do you have to connect something to the manual valve, and what about this manual shift selector pin?

[OU812]

Can someone explain in detail what this is about, i found it on another thread


15. Also remove the bolt holding Spring Lever (8mm socket). You have to reuse the Spring Lever

[plastic torpedo]

That was meant to confuse you. I did not see any springs anywhere when replacing the valve body, unless you actually take the valve body apart, which you shouldn't be doing. So don't worry about that one.

[OU812]

Originally Posted by plastic torpedo

That was meant to confuse you. I did not see any springs anywhere when replacing the valve body, unless you actually take the valve body apart, which you shouldn't be doing. So don't worry about that one.

Now you see why i want to get these questions answered before i actually
do this.

[DJboozeAlot]

instead of the gasket for the end cover, can i use RTV silicone gasket maker? the nearest saturn dealer is an hour away, and already have the RTV...

[EvilSL2]

Is there a list of part numbers for the gasket and input/output nuts?

[EvilSL2]

After trying the wolfman fix and checking the nuts on the shafts I finally swapped out the valve body and it seems to have fixed it for now.

I took me a few hours to do it and the hardest part was getting the bolts back in the pan under the wiring harness.

So far so good, it shifts in reverse and drive like butter but it still feels lie its shifting hard but i think that just might be because of the motor mounts being worn out and the drivetrain is moving to much on gear changes.


Both fixes listed by the OP is was very handy in doing this, just that you can loosed the back bolts on the subframe for the clearence needed to remove the side cover with out any grinding.


I hope this fix holds.

[indy440]

hey guys, Im new here.

I found this thread while searching the net for transmission issues with the saturn automatics. Im looking at a 2000 S-something with 176k miles Its in the family, its extremely cheap, and my truck burns too much gas. I figure if its an easy fix it would be worth putting on the road.

Anyway, it runs and drives 100% normal while going forward, but in reverse it barely moves at all. You have to rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it'll just crawl backwards. Does this sound like the valve body problem?


Thanks!!!

[bobfather99]

If you have reverse problems, youve come to the right place....

Start with a fluid/filter change, followed by Wolfman's "slam cure". This should get you a nice clean baseline to start troubleshooting.

Make sure you use a good quality FACTORY filter, knockoff brands can have flow problems, thus making the problems worse.

[plastic torpedo]

Originally Posted by indy440

Anyway, it runs and drives 100% normal while going forward, but in reverse it barely moves at all. You have to rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it'll just crawl backwards. Does this sound like the valve body problem?


Thanks!!!

Yup same problem as I had in my white SL2.
Replacing the valve body and torquing the input shaft nut will fix that.