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Old 03-14-2007, 02:32 PM   #1
rxdeath
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Default alternator replacement

well after my glorious victory against the water pump 4 or 5 months ago, now the saturn seems to want a new alternator. the radio goes out and the dash lights are all dim when the headlights are on, so i'm pretty sure that is it. (feel free to tell me i'm wrong if i am) i was wondering which, if any, of the alternators i should get off of this ebay link: she has a 97 saturn sc2 1.9 blah blah

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1

any help is greatly appreciated, i'm looking for greatest cost to performance ratio i can get, a used one is fine as long as its going to stay working, or if i should just get a remanned one let me know.

thanks everyone

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Old 03-14-2007, 04:29 PM   #2
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Default Re: alternator replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by rxdeath View Post
well after my glorious victory against the water pump 4 or 5 months ago, now the saturn seems to want a new alternator. the radio goes out and the dash lights are all dim when the headlights are on, so i'm pretty sure that is it. (feel free to tell me i'm wrong if i am) i was wondering which, if any, of the alternators i should get off of this ebay link: she has a 97 saturn sc2 1.9 blah blah

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1

any help is greatly appreciated, i'm looking for greatest cost to performance ratio i can get, a used one is fine as long as its going to stay working, or if i should just get a remanned one let me know.

thanks everyone
Suggest that you get your system tested. Most parts stores will do it for free. You could have a bad battery?? Or maybe even a bad cable connection.

Lifetime warrenty alternator is always good.

...
"When you stop to fill up on oil, don't forget to check the gas"
98 SL2 MT 213K+ Daily Driver 38+ mpg
97 SL2 AT 150K Original Owner
95 SL2 MT 220K+
My Saturns have BRASS ones!

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Old 03-14-2007, 06:23 PM   #3
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Default Re: alternator replacement

Spend five bucks on a voltmeter. If you're gonna wrench on ANYTHING electrical, this should be the first "tool" you own. An honest-to-goodness load test will indeed tell you more, but a simple voltage test (engine off, idling, revved up) will shed a lot of light on your alternator's condition.

Are you sure the serpentine belt is driving everything okay?

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Old 03-14-2007, 06:34 PM   #4
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Default Re: alternator replacement

sorry for the late reply, work just seems to expect me to work all day or something. i guess i could have autozone test the battery, and i myself have just purchased a multimeter, but i haven't used one before and the "destruction" guide wasn't much help. i feel i could test it myself i just knew what settings and results to expect, i suppose it should pony up for the real manual instead of the autozone one i bought. will autozone test the alternator also? i don't think so, at least not without removing it first. let me know, i've been thinking of just getting a new alt from autozone or something for the warranty, and because ebay shipping is going to take too long. thanks for the help so far guys, if someone can help me with the tests i'll be very greatful.

and if anyone in the bay area of california really knows their **** and wants to come help, beer, dinner and maybe some gas money would be available

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Old 03-14-2007, 06:47 PM   #5
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Default Re: alternator replacement

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...the "destruction" guide wasn't much help...
Written in "Chinglish", no doubt? An electronics textbook from the library, or even an Internet source like wikipedia might be more useful.

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Old 03-14-2007, 07:53 PM   #6
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Default Re: alternator replacement

yeah it was pretty hard to read and most of the online reference aren't that great either.

but there is an odd development, my gf told me that in fact her dash lights weren't dimming out, that only the cd player display kind of flashes when she has her lights on. i figured i'd take it and get it tested, and was told my autozone that both the battery and the alternator were good (they tested the alt in the car, which i thought was funny but w/e) so im not quite sure where i'm at with this silly thing, any ideas?

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Old 03-14-2007, 08:25 PM   #7
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Default Re: alternator replacement

If you bought an inexpensive multimeter and the booklet isn't decipherable try this as long as its a digital multimeter, the one with a digital display. These instructions won't help if yours is a needle-type multimeter.

1-If a dial knob is present that rotates from OFF to two positions labeled 'V', two positions labeled 'A' and some other positions just select the 'V' with the single line over a dashed line. This position is for measuring battery/alternator voltages. The other 'V' with the single wavy line is for measuring AC or house voltages. It's that simple. 'A' is for measuring current, the horseshoe symbol is the Greek symbol for measuring resistance, in ohms.
2-If there are separate leads colored RED and BLACK plug them into the holes marked the with the same colors. RED to the RED/positive hole and BLACK to the COM(MON)/negative HOLE. The other hole is for measuring current and not used for now. If the leads come out from the meter, all the better.
3-There must be an internal battery, a 9-volt one, to power most meters. Switching the rotating knob to any position other than OFF automatically turns on the meter. It will usually enable all the letters and symbols at once; this is the self test every time this is powered on to test the display. Then the display, in 'V' or DC voltage measuring mode will display something like all 000's. You're ready to measure voltages. If this meter is a good one it will measure correctly whether the RED lead is on the + side of the battery or - side of the battery. There may be a '-' symbol displayed, ignore it.
4-Try out your meter by placing one lead (RED) on the + battery post and the other lead (BLACK) on the - post of the battery. The meter should display whatever the battery capacity there is, 12.5, 13.2, 13.7, volts. If you've come this far you've been through your first voltage measurement.

The next step is now reading the voltages while the engine is running; 12.5-13.0v standing, 13.0-14.3v engine idling, and 14.2-14.8v above idle speed (give or take a few tenths of a volt for each measurement). All measured at the battery posts.

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Old 03-14-2007, 09:43 PM   #8
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Default Re: alternator replacement

here is a picture of my multimeter, i'd like to confirm what the idiot at autozone told me, if you can tell me the settings i'll go check it out, but i'm thinking it might not be the alternator anymore.

www.rxdeath.com/multimeter.jpg

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Old 03-14-2007, 09:54 PM   #9
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Default Re: alternator replacement

Great, pictures! Ok, turn the knob CCW (counterclockwise) three positions to the left, that should put the knob pointer on 20 volts for the maximum voltage in that range but don't worry about an overvoltage reading and blowing up the meter. Next plug in the separate RED and BLACK leads into the two bottom holes on the right. Do not use the hole marked 10A DC. You're all set, the meter should turn on all the displays for a few seconds while self-checking its circuits and battery. If all is well the display will show either a few 000's or something but it means the battery is in there and the meter is ready to measure whatever you stick the two pinpoint leads to. Go and measure a small 9 volt battery, the car battery, enjoy. You have a decent multimeter that will pay off as you get comfortable using it.

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